W-Edge
raceheads.ca
Yes good advice every one here should have a spare in glove box!Yes, of course, thanks! I better get a spare.
Yes good advice every one here should have a spare in glove box!Yes, of course, thanks! I better get a spare.
I put in new ballast resistor and new coil. It still won't start. What else could it be?Yes good advice every one here should have a spare in glove box!
Is it still doing the same thing(starts and as soon as you release key it stalls), if so bypass the resistor and see if it ll run (only do this for testing purposes , do not drive like this) , if it runs then it is possible the new resistor is faulty as well (new does not allways equate to good)!Could be the ignition sw. but before you start tearing into the column or anything else for that matter you need to test a few things (min tool would be a test light but better with a multimeter some small ones @ hardware stores somtimes as little as 10bucks)see if you have power at resistor with key on , go toI put in new ballast resistor and new coil. It still won't start. What else could it be?
Not neccessarily!If other things work in acc then the switch is good, correct?
Does it start then die or crank and no start ,does it crank period?Go back to basics gas spark and compression , gas is easy to check or compensate for (pour some right in the carb) does it run longer , YES , then look for a stuck shut float valve! Spark on crank easy to check again , either with old sp plug that you ground to a bolt on engine somewhere the wire will reach or screw driver in sp wire boot and with handle hold close to a ground (gap for arch). for checking spark while running well I guess youll have to have it running (any one have a better idea can chime in anytime)! If you are down to compression and last time you drove or shutdown was uneventful , then look for timing chain skip!I bypassed the ballast, still won't run.
I bypassed the ballast, still won't run.
I ran a wire between the two female connectors after disconnecting them from the ballast. It still starts then dies. My screwdriver shaped tester lights up when clamped to positive battery terminal and touched to the coil with the key on.How did you bypass the ballast resistor? Does it still start in START and die in RUN on the switch?
what box? please don't say the orange box.
Whats wrong with the Orange box? I ran it on mine years ago, not a problem.
Also, in the Summit link the "good" box you all are mentioning isn't available. Where do you get the "good" box?
Seems like that would work, but try running a wire from the + battery terminal to the + coil terminal. Leave the ballast hooked up. At least then you know you've got power to your coil. if that's a stretch, you could run a wire from the big lug on the alternator to the coil + terminal.I ran a wire between the two female connectors after disconnecting them from the ballast. It still starts then dies. My screwdriver shaped tester lights up when clamped to positive battery terminal and touched to the coil with the key on.
Just a shot in the dark, But what about the Netrual Saftey switch?
Good job!!!It is fixed. I had to replace the wire from the bulkhead to the ballast resistor. I removed the center bulkhead and jumped the power from the connector to the firewall bulkhead. I turned the key on and had power coming back out of the firewall. I plugged the connector back into the firewall and had power to the resistor. I tried to start the car without success. I checked the resistor again and had no power. I wiggled the wire and I would have power on and off. I replaced the wire and it fired right up. Thanks for the help.
It is fixed. .