Youre kidding right....40 mpg ? Was it a dog or had respectable response?
with the 600, as lean as I ran it, it was a lil like making love to my wife; she likes a lil tenderness before getting to it. But that carb was only for cruising with. It went on in the morning just before we left, and came off right after supper when we got to our destination.
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40 mpg Canadian is 32 mpg USg.
Like I said,
1) that carb was set up lean for cruising, in an 11.3 Scr, alloy-headed 367 engine, idling down the hiway, geared for 75=1850 rpm. and
2) that distributor was set up to deliver up to 63 degrees of advance at 2400 rpm. and
3) that combo had been previously bugged out. All I had to do was bolt it on and drive.
Same engine went 12s in the Qtr, @3650 pounds@900ft, with a 750.
Same engine with next bigger cam, and a lil less pressure, went 93mph in the Eighth,@3457 pounds.
Do you know how long it takes to swap carbs? I'm gonna say less than five minutes once you get it it set-up for swapping.
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And no,
you are not likely to be able to make 32mpgUSg
with any Mopar A-body, with any factory trans, any factory gears; or with any carbureted SBM, that is sporting iron open-chambered heads, at regular-pressure, with a stock-distributor, and any-sized carb, not even a lawn-mower-sized one.
It's almost all in the combo, the attention to the details, and a good part of it is in the body and chassis. Some cars are like bricks, some are slippery as silicon. The 67/8/9 Barracudas can be quite easy to push down the road. You can bug it out with testing.
The alloy heads, for me, were just a tool in the goal of successfully closing in on 200psi.
The Tight Quench was a tool to promote good chamber mixing, to make sure as many molecules of gasoline as possible, were consumed to make the pressure, leaving as little as possible passing thru unburned.
And I run it at 207* minimum water temperature, which is a tool to promote vaporization of the gasoline, on it's way into the chamber at low rpm.
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this is why I always say; if you are bolting on alloy heads, and if you don't take full advantage of the alloy material, it's practically a waste of money. Crank the pressure up, give them fresh cold air, and run them hot.
Then tune the somewhat unusual ignition curve, and if the carb was previously set up for open-chamber-iron heads, then lean the daymn carb out..... cuz the smog heads are terrible fuel wasters, so you gotta run them rich, just so they can get enough thuput to idle, lol.
I mean have you heard them idle with 340 type cams; it's awful, lol.
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My cam is a
276/286/110 with 61* of overlap, and an Ica of 64*, and is 230/
[email protected]. Compare this to the 340 cam at
268/276/114 with 44* overlap, an Ica of same 64*
You can hardly hear my cam, even tho it is a full size bigger on the intake/exhaust, 17 degrees(about two sizes bigger) on the overlap. and
it will idle down to 550/500 on a good day, in low gear (manual trans) pulling itself across the parking lot at just 5* advance, smooth as can be. and it will smoothly accelerate from there to 700 at which time it will go WOT with a 750 DP, with nary a single complaint. The Rpms will blaze to 7200 in an instant, with the tires on fire.
This is not a brag.
This is a statement of fact;
cuz anyone can build an engine exactly like this, there is almost nothing special about it.
Well there is this one thing, I got the transfer slot set exactly right at 12>14 degrees Idle timing.
At what Idle-rpm you might ask........
IDK, don't care, if it tics over, it's good to go. It has a manual trans, so if it it ain't idling, it's pulling. If I had to guess, I'd say 700 maybe a lil more, it kindof depends on if I forgot or not, to reset the dash-mounted, dial-back, timing module........................................... lol
with an original one
