Carb question stock 340

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StickweldinSteve

StickweldinSteve

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I recently got a 74 Plymouth satellite with a 340 and a 750 Holly DP. The Carb doesn’t have a PCV valve attached though I‘ve read there’s a spot on the back for it.

I’m debating cleaning this carb and keeping it or switching to a new quick fuel 650. I’ve read differing opinions on which is better for my stock 340.

I plan to use this for cruising so street use is most important but want a decent amount of pull when I occasionally punch it.
Thanks for your opinions.
 
750 cfm is fine for a 340, I'd rebuild what you have instead of spending the money on a new smaller cfm carborater. 65'
 
The quick fuel is a better carb than an original Holley 750dp simply because of the amount of tuning possibilities. They are easier to dial in perfectly. That being said if you spend some time on the 750 there is no reason it couldn’t be dialed in great, it’s just a little more difficult.
 
TT5.9mag said:
The quick fuel is a better carb than an original Holley 750dp simply because of the amount of tuning possibilities. They are easier to dial in perfectly. That being said if you spend some time on the 750 there is no reason it couldn’t be dialed in great, it’s just a little more difficult.
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Learning is cheaper, I’m cool with figuring it out. Thanks for your answer man.
 
Need more info
Mods to engine ?
Axle ratio ?
Automatic/manual ?
Dual /single plane ?
Weight of car
Intended use ?

Read Rusty Rat Rods "guide to hot Rodding Bliss "
 
Brooks James said:
Need more info
Mods to engine ?
Axle ratio ?
Automatic/manual ?
Dual /single plane ?
Weight of car
Intended use ?

Read Rusty Rat Rods "guide to hot Rodding Bli
Click to expand...
It’s a stock 340 in a 74 satellite with a 750 Holley DP.
It’s automatic, I don’t know the weight, but stock it should be around 3500.I also don’t know the axle ratio. I Bought it last week and only got to really work on it yesterday.
I plan to use this for cruising so street use is most important but want a decent amount of pull when I occasionally punch it.

I’m only streeting it, no track days very seldom light to light race potentially.
 
Back when I had a 351 clevland in the early eighties I tried a few carbs to see how they went. A 750 double pumper went alright until it drained the tank in a few days. I filled the tank again and it used about twice the amount of fuel than the std carb. I settled on a carter afb and it was better on fuel than the std carb but these clevos were thirsty sons of bitches and didnt perform that well compared to my 340 charger before it.
 
When I played around with the 650 versus the 750, both Holley dp, I found that I gained just a hair more grunt down low but gave up a lot of power after 4,000 RPM and I have a stick car...so that was a dead deal. 750 won.
I'm not sure it's worth the money for that amount of low end pick up to switch to a 650 for you, I persoally might put that money into headers, Gears or better heads/intake manifold 1st. More info could be useful.
 
After talking with a guy at work he talked me into getting an Edelbrock 650 and rebuilding the 750 for if I ever want to go for less street and more race build. His reasoning was that the 650 would be better for city streets, wouldn’t drink gas as bad and that the Edelbrock was more beginner friendly.

My valve covers were pretty gnarly so I sanded and painted them while I was in there. Replaced the cork gaskets as well. Tomorrow when I have more time the new carb is going on and I’ll hook everything up properly.

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The Holley is way more user friendly to tune (and learn to tune) than an afb/Avs style carburetor IMO. Your friend is correct in the “bolt on and go” aspect of the edlebrock though. If you are uninterested in learning how to tune and want to just slap one on (and don’t care about the power you’re loosing) you made a good choice. I’ll also add that the Holley could be dialed in to get the same mileage as the edlebrock. Just takes effort.
 
TT5.9mag said:
The Holley is way more user friendly to tune (and learn to tune) than an afb/Avs style carburetor IMO. Your friend is correct in the “bolt on and go” aspect of the edlebrock though. If you are uninterested in learning how to tune and want to just slap one on (and don’t care about the power you’re loosing) you made a good choice. I’ll also add that the Holley could be dialed in to get the same mileage as the edlebrock. Just takes effort.
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He told me the 750 would garner more power. Being my first go at restoring an older car I can’t speak from experience but having a bolt and go street friendly carb for getting it on the road while I learn to work on the 750 sounds like a ok compromise. Thank you for your advice.
 
CFD244 said:
Alt belt goes around the crank, water pump, and alt. While the PS belt goes around the crank and power steering pump. The alt belt uses the inner groove of the crank pulley.
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I’ll take a look at them when I get back to the house. Thanks man.
Also had a good laugh from your headline remembering Kramer practicing his pretzels line. My favorite episode is probably when he’s in the dojo beating up kids. “ we’re all the same skill level”
 
StickweldinSteve said:
I’ll take a look at them when I get back to the house. Thanks man.
Also had a good laugh from your headline remembering Kramer practicing his pretzels line. My favorite episode is probably when he’s in the dojo beating up kids. “ we’re all the same skill level”
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LOL...........Or when the vet asked him if the dog had been drinking from the toilet.
 
I wouldda left that 750DP on there. They can easily be adjusted to not suck gas so bad. I wouldda spent the coin on Stall and gears instead.
The size of the carb between 500 to 750 has very little to do with how much gas it sucks. That is mostly; how rich the low-speed circuit is, how the accelerator pump is adjusted, the ignition timing, and above all, your driving style. All of those can be adjusted.
 
What kind of stall would you put on a stock 340? Also I was looking at 3.73 for gears but I don’t know much at all on the subject
 
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