The big thing about a "carb rebuild" (you are actually not rebuilding it) is to get it CLEAN and make sure the float level and other adjustments are set correctly.
It is important to realize which parts can NOT be cleaned in either dip type or spray type carb cleaner. Off hand, on an AFB, these include the needles from the "needles and seats" and generally, the pump plunger. On carbs using a foam float, you don't want to use cleaner on the float. Actually, best to buy a new one just for drill.
If you are lucky enough to have an original leather pump as opposed to some sort of plastic, keep the leather, unless it's worn badly.
When you clean it, wear goggles and proper gloves, and use a good spray carb cleaner to blow through any small passages. These include several, at least two in each booster mount, the boosters themselves, the accelerator pump passages, and the idle passages. BE CAREFUL doing this, as you may be concentrating on blowing into a passage, and WHERE IT COMES BACK OUT might be a really nasty surprise.
Be careful when you pull the nozzle off the accelerator pump. Some carbs have a one piece needle valve and others have a brass weight on top of a ball. Easy to lose that ball.
I'd save any extra clips as you may lose one in the future. Document which holes the linkages like the accelerator pump is set into so you can put it back, if it's been running well there.
It would not hurt to check the float level on the OLD setup just for reference, before you pull the floats out
You can download the manual for these carbs right at the Edelbrock site.
When I pull mine apart, I first unhook the choke and accelerator pump links and put them aside, and the clips in a safe place
Next remove the screws on top for the power pistons and rods up top. Be careful, as the spring may pop the thing up. Pull out the piston and rod, and spring.
Next just pull all the screws out of the top of the carb, and tap gently horizontally with something like a plastic screwdriver handle to shear the stuck gasket.
Next lift the top off carefully, STRAIGHT UP until the floats clear. Be careful handling the top that the float pins don't fall out and lose 'em
Use a "WELL SIZED" screwdriver on the jets to prevent damage to 'em.
I never try to remove the throttle butterflies and shafts unless there is some sort of damage. If they are worn bad, the body probably is, as well.
I never remove the choke butterfly. The cleaner dip should get in there and get enough gum out that it will move freely. Spray it off after rinsing off the dip, last using your spray cleaner to get down the choke shaft rinsed out.
Screws often seem very tight when coming apart, as they tend to "seize." But be careful putting it back together. Only moderate screw driver pressure is needed.
AFBs are one of the easier carbs to work with.
Carb cleaner. I'll leave that to others, I don't know what's available in your area. I used to really like "Mechanics Brand" in a blue/ white can, but I guess NONE of those chemicals are "what they used to be." For a spray cleaner, I usually use CRC carb cleaner for the aggressive needs, and CRC brake or electromotive for the "weaker" stuff.
