carb spacer

-

808 DUSTER

Active Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2013
Messages
35
Reaction score
0
Location
fort bragg
I am running a 383 with a mild purple cam (not sure of the specs) and a Holley 600 double pumper. I keep reading about crab spacers, but don't know it I will benefit from one. What would I gain? And which type is best for me(street use) square, 4 hole or tapered?
 
Probably a 4 hole under a bigger carburetor.
 
Is your intake manifold open plenium intake or a dual plane intake ? If it open then a 4 hole spacier will send a stronger signal to the carb to make it more responsive. If it is a dual plane intake a tail spacier will move the rpm range up some. But a bigger carb would help 750-850 cfm 600 is just to small on a 383 with a stock cam.
 
I have a dual plane edelbrock performer. As for the carb, I guess its time to shop around. Wish I would have asked before I rebuilt the Carb...guess I'll chalk that up to experience.
 
Also I currently have a manual choke, should I look at a electric choke? If so what do I have to do for wiring?
 
Well, a rebuilt car. That works properly is worth some bucks. I'd put it up for at least $100, but the actual condition (looks included) can have the price vary. Roll the money over into the new carb.

(HEMI446 he said he had a purple cam.)

808 - tell us about the engine some more for a better than general carb recommendation. If it is a stock engine with a cam and a stock converter with Hwy. gears, an 850 Hoey is probably going to be to big.

The 383's did come with 600 CFM carbs from the factory. Road Runners had them Equiped ith Holley 4160 carbs. Also with Carter AVS 630 CFM models.
(I get that CFM number from the old Carter tech line.)

The problem is with those carbs is that they were on the smallish side from the factory with reason. Mostly due to the Hwy. gears that came stock. Even with 3.55's, by the time you rev it up top, your flying down the road.

On e you added headers and a cam, you really needed a 750 or better to max it out on the top end.
 
The electric choke wire gets spliced I to any wire that turns on and off with the ignition key.
I would recommend one.
 
It has a cam, intake, headers and 3.55 suregrip. As far as I know it still has the stock converter, but I am planning on upgrading to a 2800 stall. Oh and I just installed full msd ignition.
 
they are ok, but the quick fuel super street series carbs are way better. And not much more.
 
4 hole will help carb respond better,carb idle problems,and better out of the hole,open spacer is good for the top end to come on stronger
 
I'd venture to say that due to the size of the engine and smallish ports and lack of a plenum on the eddy performer it might respond best to a open spacer. Just make sure you have the hood clearance for it b4 you buy it. Don't know if Demon has got things sorted out but have heard many times of quality issues with them. I've used a lot of Quick fuel stuff and always had good results. Another option is to buy the Holley main body upgrade kit. You use all your exterior parts from your 600 to convert it to a streamlined 750. Only drawback is the choke is eliminated. The main body kit costs about $130. Lots cheaper than buying a new carb.
 
Thanks for all the help! Got a question I feel dumb asking....is the arm behind the yellow spring supposed to de secured? As she sits it is floating.
 

Attachments

  • picture021.jpg
    64.1 KB · Views: 186
I believe it's supposed to have a clip in the groove the spring is hooked to now and the spring is supposed to be hooked into the groove towards the outer end of the stud.
 
A 1" spacer will help out on the perfromer manifold, it will clear the hood with the right air cleaner.
Keep in mind with raising the carb up, you have to compensate with all the carb linkage, kick down linkage etc.
As for the carb run it and see how it does, I agree that it is a little small, but the throttle response will be fantastic. Tune what you have, and make changes in small steps.
 
I believe it's supposed to have a clip in the groove the spring is hooked to now and the spring is supposed to be hooked into the groove towards the outer end of the stud.

I use the spring as a clip also, for two reasons.
A little less off angle wear on the carb throttle plate shaft bushings or bores, and less parts.
It works fine unless the spring drags against the shaft making it not slide well.
His lookes plenty clear of the shaft though.
 
I use the spring as a clip also, for two reasons.
A little less off angle wear on the carb throttle plate shaft bushings or bores, and less parts.
It works fine unless the spring drags against the shaft making it not slide well.
His lookes plenty clear of the shaft though.

Your correct that it works fine the way he has it. Was just stating how the factory did it.
 
Your correct that it works fine the way he has it. Was just stating how the factory did it.

Yep, I got that.
I just never cared for all the unecessary twisting on the carb parts the way the factory did it.
I like things all nice and lined up with as little spring as possible on em.
 
-
Back
Top