Castor-Camber-Toe

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CUUDAK

CUUDAK

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Ok guys,
I am trying to confirm front-end setting for my 68 Cuda with manual steering.

Castor, -1/2*

Camber, +1/2* left and 1/4* right

Toe, 1/8"

Please correct me if I am wrong!
 
I think maybe you mean more caster wouldbe better. Only 1/2* isn't enough to hardly make the steering wheel return. 1/2* camber is ok. I try to get as much as a stock suspension will stand as far as caster.
 
Those are bias ply tire specs. They are very bad with radials. As said above get the most caster the car will give you.
 
How about?:

Caster, +1/2* (That will give you more road feel but still easy to turn the wheel with manual steering at low speeds)

Camber, -1/4* left and 0* right (radial tires can take more negative camber. The postive camber settings are for old bias ply tires)

Toe, 1/8" with old suspension part. 1/16" with new suspension parts
 
autoxcuda said:
How about?:

Caster, +1/2* (That will give you more road feel but still easy to turn the wheel with manual steering at low speeds)

Camber, -1/4* left and 0* right (radial tires can take more negative camber. The postive camber settings are for old bias ply tires)

Toe, 1/8" with old suspension part. 1/16" with new suspension parts
Click to expand...

I was thinking of using the SKOSH Chart. Max performance street numbers.
 

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I just want to feel I have some control of my car. I believe its gonna be a real handful!
 
CUUDAK said:
I was thinking of using the SKOSH Chart. Max performance street numbers.
Click to expand...

I think that chart is really good.

But you said manual steering with your car. So that changed my suggestions. The more postive caster, it will get a little harder to turn at low speeds. Like parking spaces and such. It's tough to judge what your level of annoying is in terms of how hard it is to turn.

Also were a person lives make a difference. If you are in a rural area, there isn't much tight turning into parking spaces like you have in a more city enviroment.
 
autoxcuda said:
I think that chart is really good.

But you said manual steering with your car. So that changed my suggestions. The more postive caster, it will get a little harder to turn at low speeds. Like parking spaces and such. It's tough to judge what your level of annoying is in terms of how hard it is to turn.

Also were a person lives make a difference. If you are in a rural area, there isn't much tight turning into parking spaces like you have in a more city enviroment.
Click to expand...

Small rural town here. We have excellent roads here too. My car is a 90% street driven car. I want to be able to drive without to much effort but still have good feel of control.

I also will be using radial tires up front w/Drag radials on the rear, manual steering, manual disc-brakes, complete new front-end w/ polyurethane bushing throughout the entire Formula S suspension incd the rear leafs and home-built Cal-tracs. Probably weighs around 3300lbs with the bigblock out front.

There is only one place here in my small town that does alignments so I will be there for every adjustment. I just hope he knows what he is doing!
 
autoxcuda said:
I think that chart is really good.

But you said manual steering with your car. So that changed my suggestions. The more postive caster, it will get a little harder to turn at low speeds. Like parking spaces and such. It's tough to judge what your level of annoying is in terms of how hard it is to turn.

Also were a person lives make a difference. If you are in a rural area, there isn't much tight turning into parking spaces like you have in a more city enviroment.
Click to expand...

**********

My 68 is a cuda with 216-60x15 radials on front and 16:1 manual steering. My specs match the perf street except I'm running about 2* caster. (using the Moog offset bushings in the UCA) Do not use different settings for left and right and like it has already been mentioned, the old specs are for the original bias ply or belted tires.

The car tracks like a freight train. I don't find the effort too high at low speeds, just make sure the car is rolling at low speeds. Like the old T shirt said, "Real Men Drive Mopars".
 
CUUDAK said:
I also will be using radial tires up front w/Drag radials on the rear, manual steering, manual disc-brakes, complete new front-end w/ polyurethane bushing throughout the entire Formula S suspension incd the rear leafs and home-built Cal-tracs. Probably weighs around 3300lbs with the bigblock out front.
Click to expand...

Have you read any of the problems that come with the poly lower control arm bushings? There are some concerns involving the poly lower bushings in older chryslers.
 
I like the Skosh chart too, except, for a standard street car, I like 2 degrees positive caster for manual steering and 0-1/16" for toe-in on radials.
 
mcnoople said:
Have you read any of the problems that come with the poly lower control arm bushings? There are some concerns involving the poly lower bushings in older chryslers.
Click to expand...

I think that was a lot of bologna. I've hear that the red ones crumble and the black ones squeek, they fall apart, they push out and so on.

I am not worried, I have been using them for years without issues or the dreaded squeek.
 
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