Changing Timing Cover with Engine in Car

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Walker434

Walker434

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I want to start by saying I have searched this topic and read through several tech threads hoping to find my answer before posting.

I am replacing my timing cover on my 360 because the current one seems to have a stress crack and is leaking. I know how to assemble the front of a small block on an engine stand but I am trying to brainstorm how I will get a good seal at the bottom of the timing cover to the oil pan with the engine still in the car.

When I assembled this engine on the stand I had the timing cover already in place and installed the oil pan last with the engine upside down. Are there any good tips or tricks to getting a good seal with the engine in the car? It seems like this will be tough to get a good seal since the timing cover will be going over the crankshaft.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 
Get the rubber oil pan seal installed with the nubs/nipples (pull them with pliers to get them installed completely).

Then you have to trim the bottom cork pieces for the oil pan to timing chain cover. Overlap this one with the rubber seal and use silicone/RTV to seal them together at the joints.

Then use gaskacinch on the timing chain cover to block gasket - both sides.

Carefully pilot the timing chain cover in place, paying attention not to knock the oil pan seals out of position.

It helps to use a phillips head screwdriver in the holes to help align the cover to the block while starting the first couple of screws.

You may want to trim the nubs/nipples off the round oil pan gasket to help get the oil pan to timing cover bolts in. Or learn to fight them with a socket and ratchet.

Install the bottom cover to oil pan bolts, then the timing chain cover to block bolts and be sure to torque the bolts before installing the water pump so you can get the one behind the lower water pump outlet before installing the water pump.

Then torque all the rest of the water pump to timing chain cover bolts.

Then install damper, alternator, fan & pulley, and P/S if applicable.

Then the hoses.

Good Luck!
 
it is possible, I have done it because of a broken timing chain in a friend's car. I used a stock gasket that I trimmed a bit and also used some black rtv. It's kind-of a ***** getting the seal to seat so the cover lines up. In the end I guess you could just use the RTV by itself, I have heard of guys just using RTV only on their oil pans. Of course you could do it the right way and loosen up all of the pan bolts but what a PITA.
 
I was wondering if anyone has had success with RTV only instead of the rubber seal. Thanks for the responses so far.
 
Use the rtv on both sides of the rubber seal, in moderation, of course in the corners.
While you are there if it is an older engine, put a timing chain in it.
 
It's got a newer good double roller timing chain that installed when I buit the engine. Just didn't realize I was installing a Bad timing cover :banghead:
 
I did it in mine, piece o cake.

th





RTV in the corners where the pan meets the block, the short pieces I just cut to fit and used RTV on both sides as I didn't want to disturb the pan.
Make sure to lube the balance where it goes through the seal, just a light film of grease.

No leaks yet.

Oh, and if you get this big felt washer looking thingy, it goes inside the back side of the balancer, it keeps dirt out of the seal.
 
After cutting the cork pieces off the pan rails and fitting the new pieces on there,I glue them to the pan with 3M weatherstrip glue.The glue is fast and works.I use it on the cover as well.I have never used the RTV on the front oilpan rail. I find it just to much of a PITA to remove later. I do use use in the corners though;just a lil dab. I install 2 line-up studs with screwdriver slots cut into the heads into the outer oilpan corners. After dropping the cover down onto the rail I insert 2 prybars into the top outer bolt tunnels. I push the cover down with these until a bolt hole somewhere lines up, and install a long bolt in there,about 4 turns or so. Then I repeat on the other side.Next I move to the floor and remove those line-up studs, replacing them with the panbolts.Next I draw the cover down until all the rest of the cover bolts line up. I install all the bolts but tighten only the lower 3cover bolts, and then the panbolts.
Since doing it this way, I have never had one leak. Finally remove whatever bolts you need to,for bracketry.
 
ive heard of people having good results with installing setscrews in the two holes where the oil pan bolts to the timing covers, that way you can lean it into the oilpan and put it up like the amish raist the front of a barn
with the rest of the timing cover bolts in place you can remove the setscrews and install the proper bolts
 
Thanks for all the good advice, that's exactly what I was looking for. I won't have an opportunity to work on the car until Saturday. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 
So I'm the only one that loosens the oil pan bolts, and drops the front of the pan, a little bit? :)
 
AJ/FormS said:
Loosening the pan bolts runs the risk of introducing a new leak, unless you have the re-useable gasket.So no, I would not do that, and, really, there's no reason to.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I had more problems with leaks when I didn't lower the pan, so seemed like the extra step was worth it. never had a oil pan leak. But maybe I'll try it your way again next time.
 
I was able to take off work early yesterday and get the timing covers swapped. It's all put back together but I wanted to give the RTV time to dry before I start it. I will start it this weekend and check for leaks. I used several tips from here in my procedure..... I'll let you know if I was successful
 
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