Charging Problems. Need help A.S.A.P.

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HemiPar

HemiPar

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Hey All. I hope everyone had a great weekend.
Here is my issue. Last week I drove the Swinger to work, 70 miles 1way. I got in the car and it started great like always. I got to work shut off the car. Then I went to go to lunch hit the key and it just clicked. Got it jumped and drove to the parts store. The battery was very old and it was cold here, so I just pulled the batt out, went inside and bought a new one. Installed it and started the car. I had the clerk come out and test the system. They hooked up the tester and found that the voltage regulator was going bad. bought one and installed it. Drove home. Since then I have only taken the car on short maybe 5 min drives with no issues.
Today I drove it again to work. About half way the lights got dim and the car started cutting out. It was getting light enought I could turn off the lights and I nursed it to work by turning off everything I could. Battery so low that the turn signals won't even flash and won't start now. In a few minutes I will try again and jump if needed.
My question is, if my ALT is going bad, how hard will it be to rewire for a one wire ALT in the parts store parking lot? What ALT would I get (year\,model from) I was planning on upgrading it January anyway. I don't want to buy a stock one just to replace it later, but I do need to get home sometime today.
If I were home I know it would not be problem but getting home with the car is the problem for today. If some one has a diagram I can print out and take to the parts store that would be great. And as always your help would be great. Thanks all.
 
You did not mention voltmeter/ ammeter readings, your's does not work?


The solution to fixing problems IS NOT ALWAYS a "one wire" alternator

The solution to an issue is not always "the parts store clerk."

I am NOT tryin' ta be mean, I'm tryin' to save you some money.

Hell your trouble might be as simple as worn out brushes

I would have had NO idea what you were talking about, 'xcept you mentioned Swinger, so AT LEAST from this I know..........

that if you have the stock alternator/ regulator, you have this:

Dual_Field_Alternator_Wiring.jpg


The above is the simplified diagram for say, a 70 which still has the stocker points ignition.

NOTICE that from the bottom of the igniton switch, marked "ign 1" or sometimes called "ign run" is a BLUE wire, which feeds (from the battery)---the ignition switch---it feeds ---the ignition in run, ---the alternator field---and the ign/ sense terminal of the regulator.

Notice that there is a green wire from the regulator to the alternator field.

TO TEST "quick" if your alternator will charge, here's what you have:

The blue wire feeds battery voltage to one field connection

The regulator (green) "controls the ground" and thus controls output

So to test, disconnect the green wire at the alternator. Clip a test lead on the exposed alternator field terminal, and ground it. With the engine just above idle, to gently revving up to a simulated cruise, it should charge more and more, and should pretty much peg the ammeter when simulating say, 35-45 mph in high.

IF no charge, see if you have battery at the blue wire on the OTHER field connection. Key in "run"-- Use a meter or test lamp, and once again, GROUND your clip lead when testing. This is to put a load on this circuit.

If you have voltage here, clip/ unclip the lead, looking for a spark with key in "run"

If no spark, and you DO have battery v at the blue wire, then you have a brush problem or the field coils are open.

Now, if the above checks out but it won't charge, let's see if the battery is actually connected to the alternator.

NOTICE that in our simplified circuit, the "batt" terminal of the alternator feeds up to the ammeter and to the battery. What this diagram does NOT show is that this feed goes through the bulkhead connector TWICE and this is a cause for trouble, as well as problems right at the ammeter.

Start the car, clip lead grounded, and measure the voltage right at the battery positive, then at the alternator batt. output stud. There might be a few volts difference at this point, but let's say the battery is at 13, the stud might be at 14-15. At least we are making headway.

Another way to check the above is to rig a heavy wire---no10 or bigger--DIRECTLY from the alternator batt stud right to the battery cable connection. This will temporarily bypass the bulkhead connections and the ammeter. If the battery now charges, you probably have found the area of concern.

If the alternator reading is VERY high, like 18V or higher, this means you have a WIRING problem in the circuit between the alternator and the battery

These are just some quick points.

YOU CAN NOT fix a charging system by talking to a typical modern "store clerk"

AND IF your problems happen to be related to the harness, the bulkhead connector, or the ammeter, just throwing a "one wire" on there WILL NOT change a thing.
 
Hey Jeff, maybe you've already done this but I'm going to say it anyway. Before calling the alternator remove and clean, with wire battery post cleaner, the battery clamps and posts then remove the cables off the start solenoid and scrape them with a knife. Also check the battery ground at the engine for crud buildup. It takes bugger all for the battery to power the lights with crudded up connections but those same connections have got to be clean of anything so that full amperage will pass to starter to start. I had this same problem with my son in laws car this weekend. It wouldn't start, battery dead, started with a boost, he goes and buys a new battery, he said that the post clamps were cleaned and there weren't clean enough, new battery will not start engine but all the lights worked. I show up with my handy dandy post and clamp cleaner and when finished engine fires right up. Another battery bought for the wrong reasons.
 
Look for loose wires, broken wires, semi broken wires, poor mateing surfaces and poor conections. Mine was the voltage regulator and drove me nuts! OVERCHARGEING!!!!!!!
Baked me up a battery a few times. (Stinky!)

Also loose bolts attaching the ground wires and regulator box, battery wires.
 
I am still looking for a post That JR. did on this, or was it ramcharger :read2:
I think they was showing us how to use a GM alternator
And yes to any bad grounds, and cleaning battery post and even the block to the chassis will not let your charging system work.
 
demon seed said:
............... maybe you've already done this ......................but I'm going to say it anyway................ clean,, the battery clamps and posts.................. check the battery ground at the engine ................ Another battery bought for the wrong reasons.
Click to expand...

ABSOLUTELY


Sometimes I forget that guys forget the very basics.
 
Sorry for not giving more info. the Motor is a 225 upgraded elect ign. The amp gauge was fried before I got the car. I bypassed the gauge for now but not installed a volt gauge yet, I know bad of me.
I have driven the car to work at least 10 times with no issue. The temps last week was in single digits and the battery died. After replaceing it, I asked part store clerk to test charging system. It was putting out 15.3 high and 3. 6 low. and suggested I replaced the regulator.
The battery post are clean but I have not checked all the other connections. Motor was cleaned a few months ago so no crud build up there. I have not had any issues with the chargeing system car till last week when the battery died.
Reason I asked about the 1 wire ALT is, my winter project was to upgrade the elect system like adding relay to headlights, my volt gauge, 1wire alternator and other system upgrades. I do not want to buy a 3 wire alternator now just to upgrade my system next month. Or is going to a 1wire alternator an upgrade?

67dart273-thanks for all the great reply. My problem is that I am at work and only have a few handtools to do anything on the car.
Demon and Rumble- thanks for your input. Once I get the car home I will check out all other connections and continue to test the system for flaws. I guess my winter project will start sooner that I had planned.

Memike, thanks for anything you can find in a search.
Now I need to get some work done before they fire me. OH wait, they did already. Jan 3 is my last day, thats right. I almost forgot.......
 
Just an update to those who helped me out yesterday.

A co-worker of mine took the battery to the parts store to get a charge. When completed I installed it in the car. I left work early so that I would not have to travle in the dark to much. I nursed the car all the way home. Got home, shut the car off. When in side. After an hour when to put car in garage and it fired right up. Everything went great. So I guess I will check out the entire system this weekend. I also need to add a ground from the block to the body. So not sure what the problem is but I will track it down somehow.
Again, I just wanna thank all who have helped and wish everyone a wonderful Christmas and a great New Year.
 
Sounds like you have no voltmeter to replace the ammeter? You need to consider getting one so you can tell what's goin' on

Hope you get 'er goin. I have no shop, am 62, and fighting arthritis, so I understand the problems of "cold."
 
67dart. I have one just not installed yet. trying to figure out how to put it in the dash. I don't like them hanging under. I have the plan just need to get it done. Thanks for all the replies.
 
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