cheap/easy way to swap valve springs at home

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younggun2.0

younggun2.0

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i have a 360 magnum engine that i have a new cam on the way for. i have ordered the new springs,lock, retainers from hughes. i have the heads off. any cheap easy way to get the springs out and new ones in without any expensive tools? im sure you guys have some home made tools to show me.
 
Rent/buy an on engine spring compressor. They're only like $15. Then you can take some rope & feed it into the cylinder with the piston down. Rotate motor by hand until rope is somewhat compressed just to keep valve from falling down once free. Pretty much it. Takes an hour or so. Also get a small pen type magnet to fish those locks out of the retainer or wherever they land. Oh make sure to put a couple rags around where you're working so they don't drop past the pushrod & into the motor.


http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-overhead-valve-compressor-92900.html

EDIT: I see the heads are off. Same deal just a rag under the head to keep the valve up. Much easier on the bench.
 
No point in fighting with the springs....just go rent a compressor for the time that you need it....
 
Place heads on a smooth surface, A piece of plywood is nice.

Use a large enough socket 3/4-7/8 to fit on outer diameter of retainer. Nut opening down, smack socket with a 2-3lb sledge pretty briskly. Lock should pop out and retainer comes loose.

The multi-groove locks can be a pain to remove.

That's how I do it most of the time.

Putting them on, you'll need a spring compressor.
 
Two types of valve spring compressors. Overhead type and the larger "c" shaped lever type. Lever type is costly-best to rent, faster, but have to have heads off. The overhead type can be used with heads on. Definitely have to break the keepers loose by smacking with a socket and hammer to bounce the spring, many times they come out. Some sort of stand or blocks of wood help. If heads are on the motor, an air hold fitting keeps the valves up. I've used my quick detach compression tester hose hooked to an air hose and compressor to do the job.
 
I have one of the c-clamp type. If you want to bring your heads over when you get your springs and seals, we can swap them pretty quickly. Also, use a bit of grease on the inside of the retainers to hold them onto the valve stem when you are putting it back together..... keeps them where you put them while you are releasing the tool....
 
69B-Cuda said:
I have one of the c-clamp type. If you want to bring your heads over when you get your springs and seals, we can swap them pretty quickly. Also, use a bit of grease on the inside of the retainers to hold them onto the valve stem when you are putting it back together..... keeps them where you put them while you are releasing the tool....
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hells ya! gonna take you up on the offer. it would be cool just to meet another member. i work in tukwila so seatac is just down the road from me.
 
The 1110s will go to .620 lift without bind according to Hughes.....although I cant imagine they would have enough pressure for any cam with much over .550 lift
 
mbaird said:
The 1110s will go to .620 lift without bind according to Hughes.....although I cant imagine they would have enough pressure for any cam with much over .550 lift
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This is just a street cruiser. The cam is very mild. Just hoping to make a little more hp thenstock
 
mbaird said:
The 1110s will go to .620 lift without bind according to Hughes.....although I cant imagine they would have enough pressure for any cam with much over .550 lift
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springs may go .620...but the retainers will hit the top of the guide long before you get there...
 
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