Cheap Stroker build.

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CUDACOX

CUDACOX

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O.K. Here is another...has anybody done this post! .. I had a Mopar guy/Engine builder/Drag racer suggest using my 68/318 block and using a 360 crank,Magnum heads etc,called it a cheap stroker that would be a little killer motor built without costing a whole lot .O.K. Anybody done this? Let's hear it! lol.
 
Doesn't the 318 have 2.5" main bearings, whereas the 360 has 2.8" mains?

I don't think I'd want to grind the main journals on a 360 crank down .30".
 
I'll repost my PM to you I short here;

Basicly the 360 crank into a 318 isn't done because of the lack of pistons on the shelf for this combo. Custom slugs for this run approx. $1,000.

The better route to go for cheap is a 360 crank into a 340 block which if over bored .030 will give you a CID of 372. KB has slugs on the shelf for this.

Now the only way this gets done cheaper than a off the shelf stroker kit is if you ethier do the work yourself or someone gives you a great deal cost wise. It is probably impossible to be the grea deals plus the extra cubes of today's kits displacing 400 cubes. Give or take 10 depending on what ya got to start with.
AKA, 318-390, 360-408. Overbore dependent for final size.

MP race blocks can go to a 4.13 bore easy enough for a CID of 383. Just a FYI thing.
 
MOPARoldtimer said:
Doesn't the 318 have 2.5" main bearings, whereas the 360 has 2.8" mains?

I don't think I'd want to grind the main journals on a 360 crank down .30".
Click to expand...

There is no problem in doing this. Dick Landy (IIRC) did this stroker combo in the early 70's and the. Again for Edelbrock when there first aluminum small block heads came out. I remember reading the article. It was good.
 
I am looking at a 340 with a 360 crank as a motor for my Dart. It was really what started the stroker motors for small block mopar's. I am not sure if it would be a lot cheaper as there is a lot of material to re moved from the 360 crank which could get costly. The motor I am looking at was built back in the day for drag racing and was a quick motor back then!
 
Balancing the assembly will cost a bit. You gotta wanna do this or any stroker really. There is no such thing as cheap, but cheaper than a full tilt forged racing set up is the target.
If anybody complains about the cost of a stroker, perhaps a big block is what you should have started with or a second job. Maybe cut cable TV from the house? LOL! (Hey, it wouldn't hurt my feelings here!)

Rebuilding an engine is not cheap. Stroker or not. But for the few bucks more to get the bigger cube return can be worth it.
The bottom line in any of this is;

PLAN CARFULLY! And then STICK TO THE PLAN!

Because if you do not, it be ones really expensive!
 
When I first got my 73 Dart Sport 340 it had a rebuilt 340 in it with low mileage,but was rebuilt a good 10 yrs before I got it.I decided to get it redone with a mild stroke(360 crank),new K.B pistons,an Xe286H cam with ProMagnum rockers on the X heads.(block and heads are from 1968).With an airgap intake and Holley 750 the 372 c.i dynoed at 440ftlbs/450hp.This build cost me 1/2 the cost of my 410c.i stroker.
 
1/2 huh? I guess a good reason is you started off with something rather than nothing in the build? This would certainly play a big roll.

Current stroker kits are how much?

Anybody have there crank turned down to do this? How much did it all cost you.
(Of course, this varies by region and shop.)
 
Last I knew around here it was in the 300 range to prep a 360 crank to go in a 318/340. Pistons, call diamond and have them move the pin on a 4" arms set... ~$700, then you need rods...

I'm all for doing things a little different, BUT, with 4" arm kits costing roughly same or less than a 3.58 kits, I'd build a 4" arm set up.

Pick your parts, pay your money.
 
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