Cheaper than dirt 318 build

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Garrett Ellison said:
Maybe get it running and do a compression test first. See if there’s anything that’s begging for attention. If you’re bound and determined to rebuild it anyway, how much are you budgeting towards it? Dig around on the truck and see if maybe a reman or junkyard engine has been swapped in. Casting numbers and casting dates along with the numbers stamped on the front of the block below the drivers side cylinder head wil tell you much.
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Good idea, so glad I keep asking for advice on here. See I get too excited and put the horse before the carriage. Appreciate the response as always
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Also, if look at those years of trucks, look for leaks around the windshield and at the roof near the windshield. They’re condensation traps and notorious for leaking from rust starting inside near the windshield pinchweld seams and working it’s way out.
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I've yet to have a problem, but good to know, thank you, I now wanna get up and go check :-;
 
If you find obvious clues like sticky brake and clutch pedals or long term rust out / water damage in the dash or at the floor pan behind the firewall, look for pin holing in the roof or around the windshield gasket. This isn't a deal breaker if your present cab is good, because it can get you into the parts truck a lot cheaper. The overdrive four speed truck tunnel is the same as with an automatic but with a large cut out for the side shift with the plasstic boot and shifter adapter that attaches to the side of it. The top shift transmissions are different. But you may find a cab swap is your best option, and it makes pulling the engine a lot easier with the front clip pulled off.
 
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Garrett Ellison said:
If you find obvious clues like sticky crake and clutch pedals or long term rust out / water damage at the floor pan behind the firewall, look for pin holing in the roof or around the windshield gasket. This isn't a deal breaker if your present cab is good, because it can get you into the parts truck a lot cheaper. The overdrive four speed truck tunnel is the same as with an automatic but with a large cut out for the side shift with the plasstic boot and shifter adapter that attaches to the side of it. The top shift transmissions are different. But you may find a cab swap is your best option, and it makes pulling the engine a lot easier with the front clip pulled off.
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No need for cab swap
 
If you were looking at the present V8 truck as a primary runner to replace your present truck, I meant.
 
lud said:
Bad to the bone truck, can't wait, lookin at the engine with the dude friday (gonna try to get the whole truck but wouldn't count on it cuz the springs are so much better than mine etc..) I got a lead on a bellhousing to match up the 318 to my 4 speed, and a lead in some 318 magnum heads. Gonna rebuild from ground up, new performance HEI system, water pump, oil pump, plugs n stuff (whatever cam seems like itd work) make everything work how it should. Thannnn... dump it into my truck and start adding more to it. Headers, valve covers, intake, carb, you name it. But afterwards. important stuff first, get her back on the road and in a daily drivable state. I'm probably going to have to get the block and heads milled n stuff... (I plan on driving this Truck a long time) unless they look good, I've yet to see the odometer... or what the gas pedal looks like... but in the process of getting the stuff at a machine shop, should I bore it over or anything special?
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some of what you're saying here is running completely contrary to "cheaper than dirt" build.

first, i'd get that motor running and establish a baseline. compression, cylinder balance, leak down tests. check the plugs while they're all out. visual inspections on everything-- gaskets, seals, core plugs, oil, coolant. all of that with the addition of the mileage taken together should give you a pretty good idea of the overall health of the motor.

from there you should be able to assess whether it's a good candidate to run as is or if it will need a rebuild. if it needs a rebuild, unless it's DIRT cheap move on and find a runner, you'll be *miles* ahead-- even better if it's a 360

you start talking about machine work, getting the "heads and block milled n stuff". machine work is expensive. i'd suggest saving that money for a more worth while endeavor (360, magnum motor, etc)

working on the assumption that the motor is a good runner, i see no problem with a good ol fashioned "rattle bomb rebuild". oil pump, seals, gaskets, water pump, valve seals. stab in a cam (dealer's choice here, but i'd keep it toward the small side), and a new timing chain. top it with a used 4bbl intake and carb (625 afb will be cheap and effective).

you do not need some new fangled HEI nonsese. the stock electronic ignition is more than sufficent. headers can come later, run the manifolds for now.

besides tracking down the correct V8 bell, you're going to need a flywheel at the very least. you may also need a clutch and pressure plate. thankfully that stuff is widely available and inexpensive. no need to get all aftermarket crazy here. the fork, z and bell mounts may need some sorting as well so keep that in mind. of bigger importance is if the V8 crank is drilled for the pilot/manual trans. which, you won't know until you pull it and have a look see.

i highly recommend getting everything you can-- mounts, brackets, wiring, radiator (the inlet and out let will be different for a slant) and even as much of the exhaust as you can manage, battery cables, again-- everything you can. this will all help tremendously in swapping over.
 
^^^ABSOLUTELY WHAT HE SAYS^^^^ I too was wondering what budget was for "dirt cheap rebuild" due to machining costs. Get it running and check compression, and if you need to spend a bunch on it, go on the hunt for a Magnum engine.
 
junkyardhero said:
some of what you're saying here is running completely contrary to "cheaper than dirt" build.

first, i'd get that motor running and establish a baseline. compression, cylinder balance, leak down tests. check the plugs while they're all out. visual inspections on everything-- gaskets, seals, core plugs, oil, coolant. all of that with the addition of the mileage taken together should give you a pretty good idea of the overall health of the motor.

from there you should be able to assess whether it's a good candidate to run as is or if it will need a rebuild. if it needs a rebuild, unless it's DIRT cheap move on and find a runner, you'll be *miles* ahead-- even better if it's a 360

you start talking about machine work, getting the "heads and block milled n stuff". machine work is expensive. i'd suggest saving that money for a more worth while endeavor (360, magnum motor, etc)

working on the assumption that the motor is a good runner, i see no problem with a good ol fashioned "rattle bomb rebuild". oil pump, seals, gaskets, water pump, valve seals. stab in a cam (dealer's choice here, but i'd keep it toward the small side), and a new timing chain. top it with a used 4bbl intake and carb (625 afb will be cheap and effective).

you do not need some new fangled HEI nonsese. the stock electronic ignition is more than sufficent. headers can come later, run the manifolds for now.

besides tracking down the correct V8 bell, you're going to need a flywheel at the very least. you may also need a clutch and pressure plate. thankfully that stuff is widely available and inexpensive. no need to get all aftermarket crazy here. the fork, z and bell mounts may need some sorting as well so keep that in mind. of bigger importance is if the V8 crank is drilled for the pilot/manual trans. which, you won't know until you pull it and have a look see.

i highly recommend getting everything you can-- mounts, brackets, wiring, radiator (the inlet and out let will be different for a slant) and even as much of the exhaust as you can manage, battery cables, again-- everything you can. this will all help tremendously in swapping over.
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Your right I was getting ahead of myself, thank you. I know a guy who knows a guy sorta thing as far as the machine shop, and I'd get it dome cheap. How hard is it to swapp a 318 magnum compared to that 85 318. Is it as cheap and just as simple compared to it with the added bonus of power and efficiency? Because I have a lead on one that I want the heads off of. I don't want to mess with TBI... can I convert it to a carburetor with a spare carter BBD 2 barrel?
 
Garrett Ellison said:
^^^ABSOLUTELY WHAT HE SAYS^^^^ I too was wondering what budget was for "dirt cheap rebuild" due to machining costs. Get it running and check compression, and if you need to spend a bunch on it, go on the hunt for a Magnum engine.
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I could get a magnum, but for twice the price of this 318, prolly 500 bucks. Same condition if not allitle better
 
lud said:
So I have an 82 dodge d150 that is my daily driver, I don't like the slant in it and where most guys say the more they drive their slants the more they love em, I'm in the opposite boat. I don't like the slant (in this application). It has good power for an almost stock slant and pulls good enough where I could drive it how it is. I've pulled plenty of things with it, which is hard to believe seeing how I have 2.23 gears in the rear and 29 inch tires. I have the opportunity to snag myself a 318 that should run, out of an 85 d150 that's been sitting for a long time for almost nothing. What I'm asking is for a list (with links) to what specific parts would be best for a "cheaper than dirt build" shooting for atleast 300 horses while keeping atleast 15 miles to the gallon "roughly". Remember this is daily driver. Hope to here lots of responses, and I love the slant, just not for this application or vehicle, so no "just keep the slant" remarks please and thank you, I mean it in the nicest way possible. I've already made up my mind.

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If cheaper than dirt is the primary objective a good used 5.2 magnum with a China gap intake would be hard to beat. 5.9 wouldn't be much more if any.
 
If you're gonna swap and looking for a good later model engine...

Find a 360 magnum.
 
Mid 1990's to early 2000's running trucks and Durangos with a 5.2 or 5.9 are usually plentiful and relatively cheap.
Part of the reason is that during the era they were made no one, repeat NO ONE could make an automatic transmission that was any good.
You will likely find these trucks that run but do not drive or drive poorly because the transmission is in need of being rebuilt, possibly for the second or third time.

The "Magnum" engine has moly rings and coated piston skirts. Both are a plus for longevity.
The Magnum head is far superior to an unworked LA head, and we all know a LOT of the power an engine makes is because of the head design.
They are designed to run on "pump gas". Even 87 octane.
The hardest thing about swapping a Magnum is finding the ancillary items detailed at the magnumswaps.com site-
Oil pan, timing cover (if converting to LA style), fuel pump eccentric, balancer if required, bell housing, etc.
Magnim engines are usually still running fine well past 100,000 miles.
My 2000 5.9 runs like the day I bought it and has over 177,000 miles.

It's a fairly "easy" 100 HP gain for less than the cost of trying to get a 100 HP boost on an LA build/re-build.
 
Here stock and basic mods la and magnum, in stock longblock 4bbl and headers the magnum makes about 20-25 more hp and tq.




 
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