Check on my Wiring of the Junkyard HEI

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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So on my 66 dart slant, converting to HEI from points.
I grabbed the entire unit off a 99 Surburban.

My question is is it ok to have uninsulated terminals right next to each other for the Dizzy feed? Is there any fear of arcing? Also I still need to add a ground to the module screw. and somewhere will be a relay.

Also I plan on outing this on the inner fender, behind the alternator, above the fuel pump.

Am I good or you see any issues? be gentle
hei mod - 1.jpg
 
I WOULD HEAT SHRINK THEM TO BE SAFE AND ALWAYS CARRY A SPARE.
 
GM did not insulate them and they gave no trouble in literally millions of vehicles. Since they are out in the open however, it probably is not a bad idea to heat shrink them. It would give a more completed look.
 
RustyRatRod said:
GM did not insulate them and they gave no trouble in literally millions of vehicles. Since they are out in the open however, it probably is not a bad idea to heat shrink them. It would give a more completed look.
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I always remove those red and blue crimp covers by giving them a gentle twist. I then crimp, solder , and follow with shrink wrap. I follow up with dielectric grease on the terminals to prevent premature corrosion.
 
It looks fine. Arcing won't be a problem at 12 volts as long as nothing conductive falls across the bare terminals. Some heat shrink and wire loom would pretty it up a bit and all but eliminate the risk of accidentally shorting them across.

Cley
 
There is only an average of 1 volt running through the distributor wires, so the worst thing that could happen if they touched is no signal from the distributor to the module and no spark.
No arcing, no wire burning, not even a spark from them if they touch.

BTW I used the 8 pin module and connectors on my car and have been carrying a spare module in the trunk for 5 years without ever needing it.
 
You guys got some great info for me, thanks so much. One thing about solder, although it does increase the strength of the connection (physical), it is my understanding that is actually worsens the ability of electricity to freely flow through all of the available strands? Maybe it is non-issue.
When you guys say to heat shrink it, are you meaning I should run the heat shrink right up over onto the terminals? Or just the little red/blue sleeve? One of the terminals I am using is "heavy duty" and actually has the plastic sheath all the way on the terminal.

I was also thinking about putting 1 large heat shrink tube around the twisted pair of dizzy wires, and shrink them together into 1 cable. That might look cool?

My favorite part of the wiring project is I had to buy a pack of 25 of the mini 1/8 inch terminal for the module - dizzy connection. And I only will ever need 1 of them. Well actually 2 now, since I will have to cut off to get the heat shrink on it :)
 
I do not see a ground connection at the HEI mounting terminal that is designed for that. Relying on ground via the anodized heatsink, and the mount to body is iffy.

Terminal B, the one from module to coil, has about 500V peak transient, when spark happens. It is relatively close to 12V lead next to it, and ground. Getting shocked by that could stop a weak heart, or damage a pacemaker.
 
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I found this bracket and sync from a late 80's to mid 90's truck at the yard and looks like it will bolt right to the intake bolt. I still need to figure out the coil mount and just put the stock mount in place for the pic.

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What module # are you guys using? I'm using an old MP distributor from a kit I bought 15 + years ago.
 
dont mount it too close to the exhaust manifold. That module doesn't need anymore heat. Module is LX301 standard motor products
 
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Sedanman said:
What module # are you guys using? I'm using an old MP distributor from a kit I bought 15 + years ago.
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These are GM modules. You can find excellent info on the Megasquirt site. I use the 8-pin module (85-95 V-8 trucks). It was probably the last revision before GM changed to distributor-less (coil-packs, etc). Main advantages: connectors are sealed, integral cable to coil, tach output wire, and spark advance can be commanded by a computer, and easy to source.
 
BillGrissom said:
These are GM modules. You can find excellent info on the Megasquirt site. I use the 8-pin module (85-95 V-8 trucks). It was probably the last revision before GM changed to distributor-less (coil-packs, etc). Main advantages: connectors are sealed, integral cable to coil, tach output wire, and spark advance can be commanded by a computer, and easy to source.

Nothing equivalent in Mopar world since they integrated the ECU inside the "engine computer" in the early 1980's, beginning with the notorious "lean burn" box which was a noble effort but gave problems.
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The bracket I pulled off of a mid to late 80's full sized car will put it far away from exhaust and should bolt right to the intake bolt and should be in about the same place as the factory coil location.
 
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