Choosing pistons

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You paid for that heat. You want to make it work for you. That means to keep it where it belongs,namely, in the chamber. If you get into detonation, aluminum heads is not the best answer.
 
AJ/FormS said:
You paid for that heat. You want to make it work for you. That means to keep it where it belongs,namely, in the chamber. If you get into detonation, aluminum heads is not the best answer.
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Ahhh, that makes sense. Certainly has given me alot to think about. Thank you for all of your input. It was very informational and helpful. Thanks!!
 
I am running the IC982 pistons in my blown 408 magnum. 8.9:1 compression and 15 psi boost. Plenty streetable.
 
chargd72 said:
I am running the IC982 pistons in my blown 408 magnum. 8.9:1 compression and 15 psi boost. Plenty streetable.
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Those are the 2618 forged pistons correct?
EDIT: out of curiosity, how much power does it make?
 
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96 Magnum block half filled
MRL 408 stroker kit
CSU blow through carb
Eddy RPM heads ported all to hell
Paxton Novi 2000
Procharger intercooler and spraying meth
SB 727 built to handle 1000hp with reverse manual valve
Aluminum driveshaft
8.75 489 case with 3.23 gear

I just learned a hard leason with valve springs. GO HEAVY with boost and make sure your lifters can handle it. Pulling timing with a Mallory 685. Wideband is a must and add a knock sensor if you can.
 
chargd72 said:
96 Magnum block half filled
MRL 408 stroker kit
CSU blow through carb
Eddy RPM heads ported all to hell
Paxton Novi 2000
Procharger intercooler and spraying meth
SB 727 built to handle 1000hp with reverse manual valve
Aluminum driveshaft
8.75 489 case with 3.23 gear

I just learned a hard leason with valve springs. GO HEAVY with boost and make sure your lifters can handle it. Pulling timing with a Mallory 685. Wideband is a must and add a knock sensor if you can.
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Power?
 
Never had it on a dyno or the strip. My guess is around 700+.
 
Evan Dutch said:
All that power and never on the strip? Wow.
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Two reasons.

1) It's a pro-touring build. I like my car to turn and stop as well go straight.
2) I floated a valve due to my cylinder head builder installing springs incorrectly. Heads are being rebuilt and the block needed a cylinder cleaned up. Should be back on the road in a month.
 
chargd72 said:
Two reasons.

1) It's a pro-touring build. I like my car to turn and stop as well go straight.
2) I floated a valve due to my cylinder head builder installing springs incorrectly. Heads are being rebuilt and the block needed a cylinder cleaned up. Should be back on the road in a month.
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1) makes sense
2) wow that really blows. Damage anything else?

EDIT: these ones right?

IMG_0783.PNG
 
Yes, those are the ones. The valve head broke off and beat the hell out of the piston and the head chamber. I'm lucky it wasn't worse. I'm looking forward to seeing your turbo setup.
 
Instead of getting differing opinions from the forum heroes, you should be calling piston manufacturers. They are the experts.

I would suggest, Ross, United Engine and Machine, Diamond, Arias just to name a few.

That way, you will be talking to those who make the pistons and can answer your questions with facts, rather than with opinions.
 
Summit price matches. Be sure to choose the correct overbore. 2618 require proper final hone clearances due to thermal expansion. While you're at it, inform your machinist of Cometics recommended 50RA or less surface finish.
Screenshot_20170209-133728.png
 
RustyRatRod said:
Instead of getting differing opinions from the forum heroes, you should be calling piston manufacturers. They are the experts.

I would suggest, Ross, United Engine and Machine, Diamond, Arias just to name a few.

That way, you will be talking to those who make the pistons and can answer your questions with facts, rather than with opinions.
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Not a bad idea.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Instead of getting differing opinions from the forum heroes, you should be calling piston manufacturers. They are the experts.

I would suggest, Ross, United Engine and Machine, Diamond, Arias just to name a few.

That way, you will be talking to those who make the pistons and can answer your questions with facts, rather than with opinions.
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Just got off the phone with the manufacturer. They recommend the icon forged 2618 34cc pistons.
 
Evan Dutch said:
After thought, I would like to keep the boost below 12. Car will be tubbed and springs relocated. I would like to run a 46rh trans.
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jbc426 said:
Those take significantly more power to spin and are bigger. You will have to cut the floor.
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If you actually meant a 42rh not 46rh. No cutting of the floor required. All that is needed is to modify the cross member and remove the upper hoop. If you are gonna be running high HP, you're gonna run subframe connectors and reinforce what you take out of the upper hoop.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
If you actually meant a 42rh not 46rh. No cutting of the floor required. All that is needed is to modify the cross member and remove the upper hoop. If you are gonna be running high HP, you're gonna run subframe connectors and reinforce what you take out of the upper hoop.
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I did mean 46rh, but if I don't have to mod the floor with the 42rh then hell I'll do that :) remove the upper hoop? Like, the upper hoop in its entirety?
 
Evan Dutch said:
I did mean 46rh, but if I don't have to mod the floor with the 42rh then hell I'll do that :) remove the upper hoop? Like, the upper hoop in its entirety?
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The 42rh will need to built up for your HP, but yea the upper hoop needs to be removed. Here is a thread detailing it: 42RH / A-500 in a Duster with pictures.

You can also buy the crossmember already built from US Cartool.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
The 42rh will need to built up for your HP, but yea the upper hoop needs to be removed. Here is a thread detailing it: 42RH / A-500 in a Duster with pictures.

You can also buy the crossmember already built from US Cartool.
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That's great! Had no idea. Wanted to run the 46rh but didn't want to cut up my new amd floorpan. Now I won't have to. Thanks :thumbsup:
 
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