Cinnamon 75 Duster \

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sireland67 said:
My advice is stay away from glazing putty, it tends to shrink.
I use conventional bondo and screet it on thin.
Also use a quality epoxy primer.
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If you are referring to that red goop in the tube. Hate the stuff. Using 2 part glaze, stuff that is like thin filler. But yeh, probably just as well to do it as you said. Sanded through to the filler many spots anyway....As for primer, not doing epoxy. Going to continue with Rustoleum 'ultimate primer' spray bombs. Been using it since I started this project with no issues. No point in doing anything different now.
 
sireland67 said:
My advice is stay away from glazing putty, it tends to shrink.
I use conventional bondo and screet it on thin.
Also use a quality epoxy primer.
Click to expand...
actually, there is a reason to use the glaze, depending what filler you use. Bondo brand is intended to be DTM (Direct To Metal). In my world, most work is done outside and normally primed by end of the day whether done or not (also why I got in a habit of using spray cans). That means I am often glazing over primer for touch-ups. For dings, I don't usually remove old paint, just rough it up and hit it with glaze. I am using 3M Platnum Plus filler and glaze. Both are supposed to adhere to cured paint, primer, etc. So I could have just used filler. The glaze is nicer to lay a thin coat though.
 
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ready for more sanding. Got a good coat of black primer on, then a thin coat of gray for a guide coat.

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halifaxhops said:
Gee wilikers it is in the garage!
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It is!
Had some bare metal spots after the last sanding. Got it in there to avoid surface rust with rain we had. Even in there it was a bit too windy to spray yesterday. Primer was drying quick. Started at the back. Had a good bit of gritty overspray by the time I got to the front. Especially the hood. Did not realize how bad till half was sprayed. blew the other side off with air hose. Will see when I sand it. might have to take that side back down to the paint underneath to be sure I get good adhesion all the way through the layers of paint.
 
Sanded everything behind the doors today. Found and fixed a few issues. I can still see a few minor ones that should disappear in final primer and wet sand. Did see one area at bottom of driver quarter that might still need some attention. But otherwise I think I am done prep of the back end.

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I just read this whole post
Awesome job saving this car.
Great work, I cant wait to see it painted.
 
Did the hood and driver quarter bottom rework yesterday. Driver door and fender today. Amazing how much it was off in some places and did not look terrible. lol The Durablocks are awesome. Definitely getting a much better result than I could have without them. Have about 30 hours in the blocking already...

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sireland67 said:
I bet your arms and shoulders feel it.
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And legs, and...everywhere else. And if the car wasn't enough, I ran a front tine tiller for about an hour Thurs and Fri too. Was gonna do a little more of that to finish the garden last night and just ran out of energy. Good thing I didn't cause I'm already feeling like I got hit by a truck this morning. :eek:
 
This was the last area of heavy blocking I had left yesterday. Added a little fill and finished it up today. With that I will say I've spent near 40 hours with my Dura-blocks. As much work as it is, there is no way I could have got to this level without them(not that its perfect now either)Prior to this, I just used rubber blocks with the metal teeth in the ends to hold paper. Really different with these Durablocks. Finds everything. And can actually correct a lot. Amazing how much the thickness of a layer or two of paint can throw off a body line.
So next is to pull bumpers, lights, etc. Run over it again with 320 getting all the edges exposed by removing parts. Then prime the whole thing, wet sand and transport to paint. I have an attached garage, so to do at my house would have been a driveway job. I will do primer here, but not paint. To close to road and neighbors. When I did the engine bay, I used single stage with hardener. Did not realize it contains iso-nasty stuff. At least I was in open air and did use a cartridge mask. Will ask where I get my paint, but probably skip the hardener when I paint the body. Just go with straight PPG JE. Will be inside a large garage with good air movement, but don't have supplied air mask..

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While I will probably never be 'done'. Other than paint the only large item remaining on the to do list is the front seat. And I now have a plan for that. Found a local guy who will make a cover for it that I will install. Still working out the details on materials, but should look pretty good. I know it won't look original. The vinyl I found is Boltasoft, milled pebble, light parchment. OEM was 'metallic' and used 2 different grains on different parts. Another issue is the piping/welt cord. He may have to make that and it will prob be larger round than original. It has approx 3/16" around the edge and much smaller around the pleated inserts. He is looking into plastic welt similar to original, but the closest color is 'buckskin' and is slightly darker.
 
Got the bumpers, lights, door handles, mirrors etc removed yesterday. Swapped the tires for the ones that were originally on. Still good rollers so I don't get paint on my Tiger Paws. The weatherman couldn't make up his mind today, but I did another round of sanding anyway. Had a few light showers through the day, but nice in between. Just tarped it through the showers, so I could get right back at it when it stopped. 320 dry block sanded the whole car. Didn't find too much this round. Body lines at back of passenger quarter needed some help. Got that corrected. Rinsed it off - ready for more primer.

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Nice work on the Duster! It's gonna look great with a fresh coat of T4!

Is yours a cloth or vinyl seat car?
 
Speaking of HF... My spray gun would barely put anything out no matter how I adjusted it. Was cleaned last time used. Instead of fighting with it for long, I ran up and bought another one. Still not as wet of a coat as I wanted, but good enough. The breeze wasn't helping either. I used 3.5 quart of the sprayable version of same Rustoleum I have been getting in spray bombs. Not supposed to require thinning. They call it black, but its more of a dark gray. I did recoat sooner than the 1 hour it says for recoat, ( it was dry to the touch in a couple minutes.) Might have looked more even if I had waited. I probably wont get to wet sand it for a couple days, and likely a week or more till paint, so not worried about it drying all the way.

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This primer sanded much easier than the spray can version. The 400 dry smoothed it right out. Used some self stick foam double layered to about 1/2 inch thick on 500 paper to make a pad for wet sanding. Looked great wet! Just need to touch up a few spots I went through. Almost ready for paint...

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