Circuit board loose pin - fixable?

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SlantedMark4

'74 Valiant 225 /6
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I always have had a problem with my temp/fuel gauge not working. Later I found out one the connectors where the IVR gets in is loose, so I disassembled another dash cluster I have in my parts shelf to get the circuit board from but there's a loose pin of the 9 pin connector. Is it fixable or should I consider to buy a new curcuit board?
The best option of course is to fix the loose IVR connection but is that fixable aswell?
 
I never had luck fixing my loose pins. So I replaced it
 
I’ve fixed a few with good results by a dab of soldier. But the 50% I was unable to fix was a hot mess.

If I can afford to buy a new, I do because of it.
Good luck.
 
Aircraft rivets have more than one use...
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There used to be a great old thread on this, but I can not bring it up, and I think the photos on it were from Photobucket, so they got photophucketed

Anyhow you you need some good ELECTRONIC either liquid or paste flux, and some ELECTRONIC solder. DO NOT use plumbing AKA the stuff the hardware store or HD/ Lowe's sells.

SRA rosin paste flux is one option, easy, and that will last you a lifetime, even if you are only 12 not


Go to a welding store and get one of those toothbrush sized stainless brushes so you can scrub the **** out of it and get down to clean metal.

While you are at it, solder jumpers across from the springy contacts for the IVR to the board traces, and loosen / tighten the gauge stud nuts a few times to clean/ scrub them, and clean the contact area on the pc board for the lamps, as well as the tips of the lamp socket spring terminals. Bend them if necessary for better contact.

On my old cluster, I elected to abandon the original harness connectors, as they were broken, etc, and just soldered wires to the pc board, brought out to a pair of Molex connectors, the mates of which were installed on the harness.
 
There used to be a great old thread on this, but I can not bring it up, and I think the photos on it were from Photobucket, so they got photophucketed

Anyhow you you need some good ELECTRONIC either liquid or paste flux, and some ELECTRONIC solder. DO NOT use plumbing AKA the stuff the hardware store or HD/ Lowe's sells.

SRA rosin paste flux is one option, easy, and that will last you a lifetime, even if you are only 12 not


Go to a welding store and get one of those toothbrush sized stainless brushes so you can scrub the **** out of it and get down to clean metal.

While you are at it, solder jumpers across from the springy contacts for the IVR to the board traces, and loosen / tighten the gauge stud nuts a few times to clean/ scrub them, and clean the contact area on the pc board for the lamps, as well as the tips of the lamp socket spring terminals. Bend them if necessary for better contact.

On my old cluster, I elected to abandon the original harness connectors, as they were broken, etc, and just soldered wires to the pc board, brought out to a pair of Molex connectors, the mates of which were installed on the harness.

I used this soldering approach when repairing my board, I soldered all of the pins. I had a few loose pins (check all of them) that I soldered using a low wattage soldering iron (25 watt) and resin core solder. I applied heat near the base of the pins and applied solder when heated until it flowed freely around the base of the pins onto the circuit board. For a broken pin I just soldered a wire to the board and used connectors from there to the corresponding wire in the harness. Worked out great.
 
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Here is the easiest and least expensive with just a trip to a fastener place or a hobby shop where they sell RC car parts. Remove the broken pin and replace it with a button head machine thread screw.

Get a allen button head screw the same diameter plus length and put it through from the back of the board. Install a shallow nut on the opposite side and tighten. Your fix is complete. I am always fixing the three pin boards on rally dashes which are notorious for breaking.
 
I push a slightly spread cotter pin into the broken pin, - from behind, to hold it in position, - then solder the CLEAN pins back in place.
 
All it is is a support post. It'll be there 200 years from now with zero change...
I'm talking about electrical integrity. Attempting to mate aluminum to copper did not work then, and does not work now. at least, not in most cases. I do realize, "de ox" and mechanical set screw connections, yes
 
Back in the day I just ran a small screw through the circuit board and its held up for about 20 years but these days I'd go the correct soldering route.
 
I never had luck fixing my loose pins. So I replaced it
You mean you replaced the circuit board right? Have you replaced it with a brand new one or an original one?

Instrument Cluster Circuit Board with Built in Limiter 1972 - 1976 Duster Valiant Dart A-Body
I have found this modified board on vansauto.com with a built in limiter. I assume it works with the stock gauges. Is there any test/review of it on this forum? I mean we all know the BS we had to go throught at least once with the IVR problem.. So it might be a good alternative instead of checking the board itself, the gauges, IVR etc..
 
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