Cleaning Aluminum Valve Covers

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George R

Mopar Nutcase
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I have a vintage set of Cal Custom valve covers for big block Mopar. I'm trying to clean them up without scratching the base material too much, so rather than attack them with sandpaper or Scotch Brite pads, I've experimented with the drain opener which I use to remove anodizing on aluminum prior to polishing. Although it does brighten them up (and even cleans out the black stuff from the minor pitting they have in spots) it is a VERY time consuming process. The covers are NOT anodized from the factory, just bare aluminum.

Regardless what I've used so far (drain opener, oven cleaner & Greased Lightening...all which contain lye) I will have to stay with the parts constantly moving the cleaning agent around with a chip brush or toothbrush if I use these products because if the cleaner drys on the part it makes streaks and blotches on the covers.

Do any of ya's know of a commercial cleaner or other product that is available in large quantities that I could buy inexpensively, that I could perhaps soak the covers in?

I have a round pretzel container here that will accept 1/2 of a cover at a time, but in order to immerse the cover in it, the solutions I currently have would have to be diluted with water, so much so that I'm afraid they won't work very well....... if at all. I'm also not crazy about doing them 1/2 at a time either.

The drain opener seems to work the best so far, but at $7.00 a quart I'll be in this thing for a bunch of money if I bought enough to fill a container.

If anyone has any ideas that go in a different direction.....I'm all ears.

NOT trying to restore these to any kind of previous condition from a value standpoint, just trying to make them look nice again so I can put them on the Fire-Breathing Dodge Dart.

I tried them on the engine already, and even in crappy condition, they have a REAL nostalgic look to them, and thats what the rest of the car looks like. I can't wait to get these on there permanently. They make the 440 look even bigger than it already looks! LOL Once they're ready to go on, I'll need some old school wing-bolts to hold them down!

Thanks in advance!

George
 
Harsh chemicals and aluminum don't go together -- that's where the splotches and uneven surface appearance are coming from. Aluminum is VERY porous and it will absorb and hold onto all that stuff.

Why not just toss them in a box and I'll blast them for you???
 
Why not just toss them in a box and I'll blast them for you???[/QUOTE]
Looks like your problem is solved!!!!! Leanna to the rescue again LOL
AL
 
Have you tried Berrymans carb dip? It gets crusty AL carbs spotless clean after about 2 hours. Doesnt seem to damage the AL either. The stuff is 27 bucks a gallon out here but you only need enough to cover what you need. go out to your sand box and wet the sand. Put a valve cover in a plastic garbage bag and make an impression in the sane so it sits top down, flush with the sand. Line the casting with a garbage bag and place valve cover upside down in it . Put a few empty plastic water bottles inside the valve cover and lay something on top so they dont float out like a 2X4. Fill with Berrymans so it tops off. Now it should be submersed in the cleaner with very little waste. soak 2-3 hours. reclaim all the cleaner with a turkey baster or a wet vac into a container and check your status. I would clear coat them after you get them nice to preserve their shine. Even water spots on AL leaves spots that are hard to get off. Eagle has "etching mag cleaner" and it turns everything a white-grey with very little shine. Its acid based so it should only be used for as cast covers or old school Slotted Westerns. Scotchbrite rotary pads on a drill work very well on those too.
 
Thanks for the offer, Leanna!
What would something like that cost?
I know shipping will be additional.

Pishta, you're a genius! I never would have thought of that. What a good way to make a soaking tub!

George
 
For cleaning delicate parts like aluminum carburetors I have used original Pine-Sol. I know it sound weird but the product with the pine oil verses some other products. Some people have made larger "sonic" cleaners by attaching a palm sander to the container while the parts soak. I last time used a 25% mix Pine-Sol with water and had very good results. It's gentle enough to not destroy the rubber parts but cleaned all gunk off. Having them blasted is also a great way to go. If you have Leanna clean them you may ask about a protective coating to keep then looking good.
 
i spray my aluminum wheels down with works toilet bowel cleaner. let soak rub down with a sponge and rinse. it works great. took all the stain off my old outlaw wheels and left a good shine.
 
Have you tried WENOL ?? Works really well,or as Leanna said,send them to her !!! Have you checked out the work she puts out on her Website ??:cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
I have come to the conclusion that these covers need to be media blasted in order for them to be any kind of "silver" color. I think they've been blasted once before, and with the rough surface they have, nothing else will clean them up well.

If Leanna was close to me, I would be there today with them, but if I factor in shipping both ways, it will cost twice as much to have her work her magic on them as opposed to having them done locally, plus the time that I will have to wait for them to get back to me. I'm not saying that I'm not going to send them to her, but I'm going to check a few local shops and see what they'll charge to bead blast them, or walnut shell blast them first. If it's going to be the same cost or very close, I'll send them to Leanna.

Money is VERY scarce around there right now, and I probably shouldn't even be spending any money on these right now. I had to sell a lot of parts a few months ago to help buy Christmas gifts for the kids, thats how tight we're running the house right now.

Thanks again for all the help & suggestions! I'll keep all of ya's posted.

George
 
Hey, Steve aka 4spdragtop has a home made blast cabinet, has been doing some really nice work for FABO guys from what I've heard, and is right across the border from you in Ontario. I obviously can't speak for him (and am not sure if sending your valve covers back and forth to Canada is even an affordable option), but it may be an idea to think about. He's a lot closer to you than Tennessee and it keeps it "in the family." :-D
 
I'm probably right in the middle between you and him, Leanna! LOL
I have a sandblasting gun/nozzle that hooks up to my air compressor. I wonder if I should try that. Does anyone know where to buy blasting media?

George
 
There's quite a few threads about blasting medias (use the Search key) but here's a fairly recent one with some good suggestions.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=161490&highlight=blast+media

Personally, I use Black Beauty (coal slag) ... if you have a Tractor Supply store near you, you can snag it in 50 pound bags for about $15 or so. It lasts a lot longer than blasting sand, cuts better and won't hurt your metal if you pay attention to what you're doing.
 
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