Clutch fork / adjustment rod / torque shaft....
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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The engine brackets are bolted to the insulators and the insulators are bolted to the frame; BUT
the hole into which the insulators go on the frame are slots, long ones, to allow you to spin the engine, to get the carb level from side to side.
However, you can only spin the engine on those slots, so, as one side goes down, the other goes up. If you need more up, then you gotta shim BOTH sides up off the K, for whatever height you need.
If you have shimmed a lot, then;
1) Before you close the hood, you gotta make sure the air-cleaner stud still clears, and after, that your air-cleaner still doesn't rub. and
2) that the fan doesn't rub on the shroud. I have a really big fan, lol
On mine, she was an original automatic car, so the apron did not have a ball-stud bracket welded on. So after I got the carb pad leveled, I put that bracket exactly where it needed to be, then welded it into place. Then shifted it laterally to get the inboard end clearance to the headers, then bent that end to get it bugged out, then permanently shimmed the outboard end into final position......... all the while keeping an eye on where the Downrod was
That was 25 years ago, and honestly, I don't remember it being that big deal, BUT, criminy, I was only 46 years old at that time, lol.
the hole into which the insulators go on the frame are slots, long ones, to allow you to spin the engine, to get the carb level from side to side.
However, you can only spin the engine on those slots, so, as one side goes down, the other goes up. If you need more up, then you gotta shim BOTH sides up off the K, for whatever height you need.
If you have shimmed a lot, then;
1) Before you close the hood, you gotta make sure the air-cleaner stud still clears, and after, that your air-cleaner still doesn't rub. and
2) that the fan doesn't rub on the shroud. I have a really big fan, lol
On mine, she was an original automatic car, so the apron did not have a ball-stud bracket welded on. So after I got the carb pad leveled, I put that bracket exactly where it needed to be, then welded it into place. Then shifted it laterally to get the inboard end clearance to the headers, then bent that end to get it bugged out, then permanently shimmed the outboard end into final position......... all the while keeping an eye on where the Downrod was
That was 25 years ago, and honestly, I don't remember it being that big deal, BUT, criminy, I was only 46 years old at that time, lol.
Uncle Bob
Shiny paint causes stress.
If you lift the engine to shift it around you can pop the z-bar bushings out, so unbolt the pivot ball bracket on the bellhousing side before you do that. DAMHIK. It's more of a PITA when that happens with the headers installed, but if they pop out you will have to unbolt the pivot to fix it anyway.
My engine wanted to rest the headers on the torsion bars and man did that ever cause a racket inside the car when going down the road. I tried shims and that got me nowhere. I just refused to give up until I got it all in the right place.
IIRC I ended up with the engine on the hook barely off the k-frame, putting one side where it needed to be, then jamming a pry bar into the slot to hold it there, then sitting the engine down. It always seemed to go high on one side low on the other until I did that.
My engine wanted to rest the headers on the torsion bars and man did that ever cause a racket inside the car when going down the road. I tried shims and that got me nowhere. I just refused to give up until I got it all in the right place.
IIRC I ended up with the engine on the hook barely off the k-frame, putting one side where it needed to be, then jamming a pry bar into the slot to hold it there, then sitting the engine down. It always seemed to go high on one side low on the other until I did that.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
If you're installing headers, for ease of installation, you'll want the powertrain as close to the stock location as possible.
Unfortunately, it's really hard to tell what's afoul with your single picture.
Maybe you could post some pictures of your engine and trans mounts. Someone may see something obvious to them.
Also, shoot a picture of your frame ball bracket. Maybe it's been relocated at some point?
In any event, try to get the bell crank "straight across in any view".
BTW, this may be an "optical conclusion" by me, is the engine perpendicular to the firewall. Your picture appears it's canted toward the passenger side.........
No headers...stock manifolds.
I did pull the z bar back off and straighted the bottom arm.. It was angled towards the frame. Now I think I know why it was bent...this car had headers when I bought it. Straighting only helped a little due to the other issues.
Are there different engine mount brackets for different years, different cars, etc....? I'm using the brackets from a 1972-73 273 on this 71 318. Are there different engine mounts...different thickness..?
I'll take some detailed pictures of the engine at different angles...and of the mounts / brackets and post here....like you said, maybe someone will catch something...
Thanks..!
Daves69
Well-Known Member
The SB guys will be better to answer this. There may be some spacing differences.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Pix help a lot.
The front mounts appear new, but are thinner than I would have expected.
As was mentioned, the holes in the mount brackets and holes in the cast iron block are quite generous, so if you loosen the 3 bolts each side, just loosen lower bolt thru long slot of frame, piece of wood under balancer or pan, lift engine till weight off the mounts till they "dangle", use pry bar or similar to shift engine around till in best position. (link above)
The mount holes allow bolts to "wallow" around, allowing you a range of motion before tightening the bolts to block, lower motor till frame mounts touch, pry into best position by the chart posted earlier.
That should improve positioning.
If that doesn't raise it enuff, get some rubber mounts outta mid/late 70s small block p/up truck, or iirc van mounts.
They are about 1/4 inch thicker than car, and I use them often for header clearance.
Shims under the fr mounts is an option, but the truck mounts will prob be best, if the jacking doesn't work.
Keep in touch, you got this.
Good luck
The front mounts appear new, but are thinner than I would have expected.
As was mentioned, the holes in the mount brackets and holes in the cast iron block are quite generous, so if you loosen the 3 bolts each side, just loosen lower bolt thru long slot of frame, piece of wood under balancer or pan, lift engine till weight off the mounts till they "dangle", use pry bar or similar to shift engine around till in best position. (link above)
The mount holes allow bolts to "wallow" around, allowing you a range of motion before tightening the bolts to block, lower motor till frame mounts touch, pry into best position by the chart posted earlier.
That should improve positioning.
If that doesn't raise it enuff, get some rubber mounts outta mid/late 70s small block p/up truck, or iirc van mounts.
They are about 1/4 inch thicker than car, and I use them often for header clearance.
Shims under the fr mounts is an option, but the truck mounts will prob be best, if the jacking doesn't work.
Keep in touch, you got this.
Good luck
Thanks for the explanation. CRUZE 418 had mentioned this trying to help, but I misunderstood.
I understand how it can get frustrating trying to help someone, a novice like me, that doesn't have the knowledge...sometimes even the terminology confuses me. You want to bang your head against the wall.
99.9 % of the people on this forum that I've dealt with, and there's been many due to my million questions, have been extremely helpful and patient and are always appreciated.
Thanks again..!
Inertia
Well-Known Member
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
I kinda try to explain things remembering lotta folks are novices, then get accused of talking "down" to folk, - can't win .
Your not talking down Inertia. It can be a fine line. Some people here give you all of the vegetables, but think that you know what to do with them. If you knew that, you wouldn't have asked. I am guilty at times myself, but try not to be.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Much appreciated, thank-you .
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