clutch fork replacement in car

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J

Johnny Grand

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I have a 1963 dart factory manual transmission on the tree. Previous owner has converted to 4 speed and I've been using it. Sloppy but sure. Now that I have been a little more aggressive I noticed a noise, leading me to the fork, finding I do not have a slant six fork design. It has a pin in the transmission end. I have a 1976 fork and linkage to use.. I do have a 1976 transmission in it. Aslo, I'm noticing quite a bit of flex on the firewall when using the clutch. Hoping the different fork will help this too.
The question is, can the fork be replaced on the car? I've got skinny arms if that helps!
 
No, because the throwout bearing attaches to the fork. You will need to remove the transmission. Normally, you match the fork to the CAR and its linkage, not to the transmission.

I will say if it has a bottom inspection plate, you MIGHT can get real lucky and manipulate the fork on and off the throwout bearing without removing the transmission.
 
1965 Dart with 273 and a833… I swapped the fork with everything in the car, and all four tires on the ground.

It took some patience to get it in, but it got there eventually.
 
It can be done in car. I’ve done it on the side of the road. It is tight on early abodies. But can be done. Exhaust and brake lines hang up some.
 
I did this last summer on my 64 225 /6 Valiant.
Installed the TO bearing on the input shaft without the fork before installing the trans..
It was very easy to insert the fork later as the bearing spring just clips onto the fork ears.
Your results may vary as you seem to gave a bastard setup.
 
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I'm still lost on the why you're changing to a later fork. I don't understand that. I'm doing a T5 swap on mine soon and I am using everything from the bellhousing forward, 1964 clutch linkage, Z bar, fork and all.
 
I'm more concerned about the firewall flex while pressing on the clutch. The fork has to match the bell housing and external clutch linkage so leverage and strain on linkage isn't excessive while still allowing proper release.
 
cudamark said:
I'm more concerned about the firewall flex while pressing on the clutch. The fork has to match the bell housing and external clutch linkage so leverage and strain on linkage isn't excessive while still allowing proper release.
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That's what I'm saying. He's describing the stock 63 fork with the clevis pin in the end and yet he wants to change to the fork that matches the transmission? I'm lost. But, it's his car. lol
 
I agree with others. Throw out fork pivots are different over the years and the forks are therefore different. Fork needs to match the pivot style in the bell housing. The trans year, even type, is irrelevant.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's what I'm saying. He's describing the stock 63 fork with the clevis pin in the end and yet he wants to change to the fork that matches the transmission? I'm lost. But, it's his car. lol
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I’m ASSuming that the 76 transmission is an overdrive, and would have a later bellhousing. Some additional information from OP would probably be helpful.
 
If the firewall is flexing, the OP may have too heavy of a pressure plate in it, just a thought.
 
Thanks for all the information.
yes it has the 1976 transmission in it. this was the thought for a matching fork. All stock clutch parts. If the fork is to match the bell housing then it would seem I need to start with the fork. I suppose I could always change it back. So people making this swap have used the 1976 style fork if I'm reading this correctly. I probably have the original 1963 fork.
 
Well, a 4-speed transmission, whatever year, O/D or not, won't bolt up to a 63 3-speed bellhousing, so your bellhousing is not original. Guessing it's probably a 76 bellhousing, although it ain't necessarily. Anyway, your fork needs to match the bellhousing. Sounds like it may not at present.
 
No the fork is clevis style. As mentioned original 1963?. Aluminum housing. I have the later matching fork and z- bar for the bellhousing. It seems it still has the original z-bar also. The pivot ball mounts at the bell housing have been cut ,welded. If someone could confirm I need/could switch z-bar and all to and including the fork for proper geometry to begin with.
 
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