CLUTCH HELP

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how tight was the transmission going in /which pilot bearing did you use? IF the input shaft is to tight or long and binding in rear of crank it can keep the main input shaft locked with engine and never release when pedal pushed /was the crank a auto or stick?
 
teringer said:
how tight was the transmission going in /which pilot bearing did you use? IF the input shaft is to tight or long and binding in rear of crank it can keep the main input shaft locked with engine and never release when pedal pushed /was the crank a auto or stick?
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it went in like all the other ive done it fought me a bit but went right in the crank was drilled for a manual trany the bearing came with the clutch kit
 
Ironracer said:
To make a "T" outta the 2 pcs of lumber. Ya don't want em to flex. It also would depend if Ya Have seat tracks or not in the cabin. But, I've read a bunch of yer stuff, Ya ain't dumb! Lol. Basically, find a Stable place to rest a 2x4 from driver side to passenger side. Using another one, push it forward till the clutch pedal is all the way in. ( I'd wrap some cloth w/ Painters tape round the pad, so's not to mess it up) once It's shoved up in there, mark the backside, cut it, and tap it on in there. Then screw em together. Heck, if the doors are off, you could bridge em and Wedge one to the pedals.... sorry for sounding stupid here. I'm tired as can be....
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i hear ya the drivers seat is in i could wedge a 2x4 between the seat & pedal
 
So you have all new parts and your plate doesn't release the disc when you floor the clutch pedal.
Does the above include bell crank, bushings, and ball pivots?
You've already extended the adjust rod to add more threads.

Make sure the bell is tight to the block and the trans is tight to the bell.
Check all pedal linkage for lost motion, shifting side to side, etc.
Check to make sure the trans front bearing retainer tube hasn't been damaged.
Check to make sure the pivot is not worn, bent, loose, etc.
Check to make sure the fork is all the way onto the pivot.
Check to make sure both release bearing pads are on the fork tips correctly and the clips are in the cups.

Does the back side of the fork bottom on the bell housing window when the pedal is depressed?

Out of the box, consider a spacer under the pivot. An 1/8" can make a big difference here.


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Daves69 said:
So you have all new parts and your plate doesn't release the disc when you floor the clutch pedal.
Does the above include bell crank, bushings, and ball pivots?
You've already extended the adjust rod to add more threads.

Make sure the bell is tight to the block and the trans is tight to the bell.
Check all pedal linkage for lost motion, shifting side to side, etc.
Check to make sure the trans front bearing retainer tube hasn't been damaged.
Check to make sure the pivot is not worn, bent, loose, etc.
Check to make sure the fork is all the way onto the pivot.
Check to make sure both release bearing pads are on the fork tips correctly and the clips are in the cups.

Does the back side of the fork bottom on the bell housing window when the pedal is depressed?

Out of the box, consider a spacer under the pivot. An 1/8" can make a big difference here.


View attachment 1715989136
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yes everything but the Z bar, trans & bell housing is new I put it all together & its been sitting for about 6 months before i tried to see if it would move (gathering parts) With it just sitting & not running it will go in any gear. It will start in neutral & with it running i push the clutch in & try to put it in any gear & no go. When i shut it off put it in any gear & try to start it the car moves as if the clutch pedal isnt pushed in. I didnt think this would happen since every thing is new. Im going to find someone who will get in & press the pedal in while im underneath to see whats going on.
 
WAYNE0 said:
yes everything but the Z bar, trans & bell housing is new I put it all together & its been sitting for about 6 months before i tried to see if it would move (gathering parts) With it just sitting & not running it will go in any gear. It will start in neutral & with it running i push the clutch in & try to put it in any gear & no go. When i shut it off put it in any gear & try to start it the car moves as if the clutch pedal isnt pushed in. I didnt think this would happen since every thing is new. Im going to find someone who will get in & press the pedal in while im underneath to see whats going on.
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That's a Heck-o-lot safer than the stick trick. Just don't crawl under there without them knowing they need the brakes on. That Would NOT be a good time for it to wanna move
 
WAYNE0 said:
it went in like all the other ive done it fought me a bit but went right in the crank was drilled for a manual trany the bearing came with the clutch kit
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But did he. Drill it deeper or just open it up for the pilot bearing to fit
 
teringer said:
But did he. Drill it deeper or just open it up for the pilot bearing to fit
Click to expand...
I bought the engine already built & i checked the crank before i decided to put a 4spd in it. Looked like a "manual crank" to me I was stupid one time & tried to put a 4spd trany in an engine before looking at it. I was having a hell of a time trying to get it in until it dawned on me. Check the crank lol That one wasnt a manual crank. Ive learned
 
Ironracer said:
That's a Heck-o-lot safer than the stick trick. Just don't crawl under there without them knowing they need the brakes on. That Would NOT be a good time for it to wanna move
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yea im not going to have it running i dont like doing that
 
if i leave on a car outside in the uk for 6 months over winter and never move it the clutch plate welds itself to the flywheel with corrosion. the same car if the hand brake was on would have the shoes welded to the drums as well

moving the thing would involve ingenuity and a total lack of mechanical sympathy

i have no idea bout ambient temperatures humidity dampness and sea air in your area, but a combination of any or all can leave fiberous friction surfaces pressed hard against iron or steal Joined in a manner that is kinda hard to unjoin.

Dave
 
So this car was an automatic? You say everything is new? There's an awful lot that could be wrong with this picture. Where did you get all of these new parts? So everything is new from the clutch pedal to the engine block except a used z-bar? Not sure if pictures can straighten this puzzle out. Lotta possibilities.
Yes, the diaphragm clutch adjustment is the same as a 3 finger.
Pretty sure that you are going to be taking it back apart.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
So this car was an automatic? You say everything is new? There's an awful lot that could be wrong with this picture. Where did you get all of these new parts? So everything is new from the clutch pedal to the engine block except a used z-bar? Not sure if pictures can straighten this puzzle out. Lotta possibilities.
Yes, the diaphragm clutch adjustment is the same as a 3 finger.
Pretty sure that you are going to be taking it back apart.
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yes it was an original auto on the floor trans tunnel new engine & trans rebuilt shifter mech & linkage new ok you got me the pedal assembly isnt new i started with nothing other than the pedal assembly, Z bar, shifter mech & trans tunnel i got everything from Brewers or Passions
 
I am thinking that something is wrong in the bellhousing. You may need another person for diagnosis. Only so much an arm chair quarterback can do.
Good luck.
 
At rest, how much space between the throwout bearing and the fingers on the diaphragm?
I run a diaphragm clutch in my 833, and it has a VERY narrow adjustment window. At rest, I have maybe .030-060" gap, otherwise it won't fully release with the pedal on the floor.
Also a good idea to have someone press the clutch pedal (engine off) while you're down there. Look for flex at the z-bar pivots and see how much pedal travel it takes before the diaphragm moves. My reinforcement bracket broke loose from the frame rail (shitty weld on my part) over the course of a week and the clutch pedal started to engage lower and lower until I couldn't get it in/out of gear. Luckily by then I had it in my shop..
 
I took the Z bar out inspected every thing. I put it back in & it moves freely Hooked up the rod from the pedal to the Zbar. Every thing still moves good. Hooked up the adjusting rod & had someone push the pedal in & out a few time while im underneath once again it all moves good. Put it all back together & adjusted it. So i tried to start it with the pedal in & in gear once again the car moves as if the pedal isnt pushed in. So i did that a few times to where it moved about 20ft. Then i did it in revers. Then forward again. NO GO So i jacked it up crawled under neath it & couldnt find any thing wrong. So i decided to loosen the bolts that bolt the clutch to the flywheel. I no sooner got the last one loose & it started to rain & that ended my day. Boy i really dont want to take the trany out. What a pain in the ***. Ive put together 4spd cars before with no problems. Ive took 4spd cars & put automatic trans in with no problems. This is my first of taking a automatic car & putting in a 4spd. I am lost.
 
Phreakish said:
At rest, how much space between the throwout bearing and the fingers on the diaphragm?
I run a diaphragm clutch in my 833, and it has a VERY narrow adjustment window. At rest, I have maybe .030-060" gap, otherwise it won't fully release with the pedal on the floor.
Also a good idea to have someone press the clutch pedal (engine off) while you're down there. Look for flex at the z-bar pivots and see how much pedal travel it takes before the diaphragm moves. My reinforcement bracket broke loose from the frame rail (shitty weld on my part) over the course of a week and the clutch pedal started to engage lower and lower until I couldn't get it in/out of gear. Luckily by then I had it in my shop..
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The way i was taught is to adjust it so you can just barely turn the throw out bearing with your fingers.
 
WAYNE0 said:
The way i was taught is to adjust it so you can just barely turn the throw out bearing with your fingers.
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That sounds about right.
Nothing is flexing?
Any chance you could take some pictures of your clutch lever at rest and then when the pedal is fully pressed?
 
Phreakish said:
That sounds about right.
Nothing is flexing?
Any chance you could take some pictures of your clutch lever at rest and then when the pedal is fully pressed?
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cant see any thing flexing ill try to take some pictures if it isnt raining lol
 
Sorry to say this again, but there are somethings that you just have to do. Take it apart. In the time you are wasting, you could already have it apart. We have all had this happen with something, and if they say they haven't, they are lying. Just do it.
 
Is there any chance that the ratios of your pedal pushrod, pivot point, Z bar arm lengths, and or fork are not correct?
 
Dana67Dart said:
Is there any chance that the ratios of your pedal pushrod, pivot point, Z bar arm lengths, and or fork are not correct?
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I ordered all the parts for the year of the car. Like i said all but the Z bar. I had that and all the pictures ive seen it looks like the right one. Now what i didnt mention is i have TTI headers and i had to move the arm on the Z bar that goes to the adjusting rod. It all moves freely and smooth. Every thing aligns up. Like someone said i should just bite the bullet and pull the trany. Ill have to wait to get it back in the garage. Its outside because im working on a challenger.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Sorry to say this again, but there are somethings that you just have to do. Take it apart. In the time you are wasting, you could already have it apart. We have all had this happen with something, and if they say they haven't, they are lying. Just do it.
Click to expand...
yea your right ive had it all apart twice now just to make sure on things Its been all apart but the trany out.
 
I'm not sure it's even possible but if the z bar was installed backwards would that account for a low pedal resulting in a clutch that will not release?
IMG_1879.jpg
 
Z-bar really goes in one way. Spring clip locks the nylon bushings in place for the stud pivot on driver's side.
 
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