clutch linkage

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tyler_s18

tyler_s18

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so today we timed the motor and did the exhaust and actualy got to drive the scamp lol wow that was exciting. but to go in gear (1st and reverse) it made lots of bad noise. also when i had the clutch pedal all the way down it made bad noise to. i didnt like how i thought the original clutch linkage was when i had put it on earlier so i did my own thing lol. well it dont work it wont let the clutch fully engage. so what length are your clutch rod that goes from the z-bar to the fork? and do you have pics of how yours is set up? and what else would make noise? we checked the fluid and it was a little low but not to much. but if someone has pics of their linkages it would be appreciated:) thanks
 
What do you mean by "do your own thing?

Lengths and correct bends of the clutch rod and torque shaft is critical. Here are 2 links from Brewers and a pic of the correct parts that I used for the conversion.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?id=35

http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?id=105

DSCN1257.jpg
 
its hard tro explain how i did it but it was wrong lol. do you have a installed pic of the linkage that goes from the z-bar to the clutch fork? and how long it is? i looked on brewers and i realized i have everything that i need but the spring. so i got a different spring that will work and heve it set up decent but want to see the original way
 
Can't take pix especially w/headers in the way. It's even difficult measuring the length of the torque shaft where it connects to the clutch fork. Here is the best I can do. It's a tight fit.

The flat end of the clutch rod connects to the pedal and the other curved end connects to the top of the torque shaft. The curved end is towards the engine.

Clutch Rod.jpg
 
ok sweet thats how i have that end. and you cant get a pic of the other end? like that attaches to the clutch fork?
 
The rod you have is probably too long. I had to shorten mine and reweld. It should have a slip half ball that contacts the fork socket with a nut and jamnut. Word to the wise, Buy a Chiltons that covers this car. $30/40 well spent and would help in every aspect of restoration, :read2: They show blown views of a lot of componets, and would tell you most everything you need to know. Sometimes you may not get answeres or pics here.
 
ok. mine is to short. it barley even touches the fork. on brewers it shows that it uses a rod, one nut, washer, spring, and at the z bar end the clip and vinal washer

AK448.jpg
 
tyler_s18 said:
ok. mine is to short. it barley even touches the fork. on brewers it shows that it uses a rod, one nut, washer, spring, and at the z bar end the clip and vinal washer
Click to expand...
I believe the rubber presses into fork hole, then the big washer then the lock nut, some the spring may go back to z bar crank, in mine it went to a space in bell. With your tuff clutch, I believe you`ll find, the rubber will be destroyed in shortorder. My stuff came with non original to application but made it work. I had all those parts, plus that ball end sleeve, and thats all I`m using now. Cant remember if I lengthened or shortened, but I did modify to make work. If rod is new return for longer if possible. If not splice in the proper amount, may use a grade 5 long bolt or piece of cold rolled. allow 5/32" free play. good luck8)
 
ok i have the rubber in the fork then the nut on the rubber and washer behind that and a spring from fork to z- bar. t put electrical tape on it for now so it wont slip off. i think i am gonna have to lengthen it and redo it. thanks:)
 
Forgive all the body shop dust and plastic media. I tried to show the setup for the clutch fork and the other photo is of where the other end of the spring hooks to the bellhousing right behind the top starter ear.

DSC_0032.jpg


DSC_0036.jpg
 
ok sweet thanks:) so it just kinda stays in there i for sure need the longer rod lol the spring helps disengage the clutch?
 
No, it keeps the linkage together and pulls the fork and throwout bearing away from riding on the clutch fingers when engaged.
 
yes the pivot is in lol the clutch works and dosent slip so it engages all the way. i have heard the spring goes to the bellhousing and i have heard it goes to the z bar. if it goes to the bellhousing it will help the fork not touch the clutch while in gear and foot off the clutch i think. which seems like it would work gr8:) one more q tho dose the spring have tension all the time?
 
There is an opening that the return spring fits into right by the starter ont eh bell.

Unless you hook it around the pivot portion of the z bar, horizontal round tube, it won't work correctly.
 
ok. i dont have the original spring but will find one that will work. so dose it have tension all the time and is it very tough to expand the spring?
 
The spring tension isn't crazy, but it's under tension all the time when hooked to the bell and fork.
 
ok sweet. i have a throttle return spring that would work pretty good and maby if doubled up would have enough tension
 
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