Clutch Linkage

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DartDave73

DartDave73

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I put in a McLeod clutch on my Dart. I haven't run it yet. Car is still being built.

Been reading a lot about beefing up the z-bar and the firewall because of the stronger than stock pressure plate. Question I have, what needs to be done? Does anyone have any pics of what modifications are needed? I'd like to address these before I put the linkage in. I'll be putting a set of TTI headers on this car as well, and I don't want to make any modifications to the z-bar that will interfere with it.

Appreciate any advice anyone can give. I like to do it right the first time, and anything anyone can recommend is very welcome.
 
Get ahold of Brewer performance on their site or here. They have "been there, done that". @Dan Brewer
 
Ahh. I didn't think of that. Thanks! I've been there before doing the rebuild on the manual trans. Guess I'll give them some more $$. Heh.
 
Small block or big block?

I run a pretty heavily sprung pp and do not have issues with firewall flex. The issue you run into in my experience is the engine getting shoved around on the mounts because there is nothing to fully stabilize it fore-aft.
 
My buddy has a 68 GTS and he had to reinforce the attachment on the inner fender / frame rail as the factory attachment had metal fatigued.
 
add a brace from master cylinder to left fender panel, also extend the bottom pivot on Z bar one inch, where clutch rod joins it. if need more travel, then lower top pivot down one inch, this changed the ratio of Z bar, clutch will work a lot better, pedal doesn't have to travel as far to release . my duster has this done to it, i found this in mopar race manual. just food for thought
 
All good info here..!! Before you go crazy on the z bar or other parts test fit the headers FIRST. This will help make sure all your mods will clear everything. Otherwise you do or undo everything twice or three times. If your lucky..!! Swingn’
 
perfacar said:
add a brace from master cylinder to left fender panel, also extend the bottom pivot on Z bar one inch, where clutch rod joins it. if need more travel, then lower top pivot down one inch, this changed the ratio of Z bar, clutch will work a lot better, pedal doesn't have to travel as far to release . my duster has this done to it, i found this in mopar race manual. just food for thought
Click to expand...
Good things here. I'll keep this in mind. Thank you!

​

 
Swingn’71 said:
All good info here..!! Before you go crazy on the z bar or other parts test fit the headers FIRST. This will help make sure all your mods will clear everything. Otherwise you do or undo everything twice or three times. If your lucky..!! Swingn’
Click to expand...

Yeah, I agree. I should make sure I have the room. Headers are never forgiving or understanding.
 
Jeremiah said:
Small block or big block?

I run a pretty heavily sprung pp and do not have issues with firewall flex. The issue you run into in my experience is the engine getting shoved around on the mounts because there is nothing to fully stabilize it fore-aft.
Click to expand...

This I have addressed. When I took the front frame apart, I reinforced it as well as disassembling the K-member and re-welding anything that needed it. Hopefully the mounts will hold, otherwise I might look into a different style/setup.
 
Dana67Dart said:
My buddy has a 68 GTS and he had to reinforce the attachment on the inner fender / frame rail as the factory attachment had metal fatigued.
Click to expand...
I was already planning on adding steel behind it. It seemed to me that it needs more than what the factory gave it. Which, is typical.
 
I really appreciate all the help and advice here. I'm the kind of person that likes to "make sure" on things. When it comes to cars, especially ones you plan on pushing hard, it's never a bad idea to do things preventative. Plus, who wants to do things twice? :D
 
I run a heavy v8 clutch on my six, the kind that causes you to need to press your own knee down with your hand on occasions .. i.e there is no comfort sitting in traffic with ya foot on the clutch for very long... Basically has casued recipents of a "do you want to have a drive " offer, to return and be less than complimentary about the weight of the clutch


so i guess its a heavier weight than standard :) i'm used to it, i now have such a powerfull left leg i can only walk in circules

The only issue i have had is the z bar moving sideways towards the block which casued the adjuster rod to pop off its stud and i lost the grey metal spring clip 3 or 4 times until i worked out what was wrong.

this was traced to the fact that the chassis side plastic half moon bushes innside the z bar had worn at the ends and one end of my spring clip retainer for these bushes had snapped. on removal i do belive this was all still OEM fitted 52 years ago, which might explain why it was all worn out, and you do need that spring clip to be well into the groove of the bushes through the two offset holes.

with only 1 end of the retainer wire sitting in the groove of the half moon bushes and the wear mentioned earlier the bushes eventually moved round so the retainer end slotted through the split in the bushes allowing them to move outwards towards the end of the z bar, which meant the z bar was no longer fixed in position close to the chassis and consequently the bar moved inwards causing mis alignment

new kit of seals, half moon bushes, and a retainer wire later, and i'm no longer springing off the adjuster rod beacsue the z bar stays in the correct place with proper alignment of its limbs with the clutch rod and the clutch fork eye

i didn't need to weld or add anything and after 20+ years of ownership this is the only issue i have had with the clutch.


i'm running a 10 inch 6 bolt cover from a holden v8 that in its normal use would be actuated by a hydraulic set up to make it easy on the leg. reasonably high clamping force in a small space to provide the same friction/clamping as the old style dual plate "hand grenade" that was used by the factory in "Track Pack" versions of my car, in the old days

Dave
 
What type pressure plate? Borg and Beck or diaphragm? If it's a diaphragm, it's very unlikely any type of reinforcement is necessary as they operate completely different from a Borg and Beck.
 
thats potentilly what makes mine manageble, its a diaphragm

basically it doesn't get stiffer and stiffer as the peddle is pressed, reasonably consistent foot/leg pressure necessary regadless of bite point
 
DartDave73 said:
I put in a McLeod clutch on my Dart. I haven't run it yet. Car is still being built.
Been reading a lot about beefing up the z-bar and the firewall because of the stronger than stock pressure plate. Question I have, what needs to be done? Does anyone have any pics of what modifications are needed? I'd like to address these before I put the linkage in. I'll be putting a set of TTI headers on this car as well, and I don't want to make any modifications to the z-bar that will interfere with it.

Appreciate any advice anyone can give. I like to do it right the first time, and anything anyone can recommend is very welcome.
Click to expand...


FWIW, here's a thread with pictures of the A body HD pedal set. They don't show the firewall brace plate............
www.forabodiesonly.com

Heavy Duty Clutch Pedal Assembly Value

I purchased a box of A body 4 speed parts from a guy in my town, and in the box was 3 separate clutch assemblies. (It was a big box, with 2 bell housings, Hurst shifter mechanism with shift rods, re-chromed shifter handle, and some small parts). I got to work by taking each one apart and...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com


IIRC, the DC bible recommended extra firewall bracing for power shifting with a high load (3100# (?)) B&B style clutch cover to reduce deflection.

IMO, the small stock Abody inner fender torque shaft brace is almost adequate for a standard duty 10-1/2" clutch set.

Likely you know new TTi torque shafts are available.
 
I use a diaphragm style pressure plate. I was advised to use one of them. I'll have to see what kind of action it does once the linkage is setup. I'm almost done repairing the cowl section and then I'll be able to test everything. I like to be proactive on repairs and modifications and I appreciate all the help and advice on how to approach this. Stronger the better!
 
DartDave73 said:
I use a diaphragm style pressure plate. I was advised to use one of them. I'll have to see what kind of action it does once the linkage is setup. I'm almost done repairing the cowl section and then I'll be able to test everything. I like to be proactive on repairs and modifications and I appreciate all the help and advice on how to approach this. Stronger the better!
Click to expand...
Diaphragm pressure plates should be easier on the linkage. You will need to remove the over center spring from the pedal bracket under the dash. There are threads here to show you how.
 
Daves69 said:
FWIW, here's a thread with pictures of the A body HD pedal set. They don't show the firewall brace plate............
www.forabodiesonly.com

Heavy Duty Clutch Pedal Assembly Value

I purchased a box of A body 4 speed parts from a guy in my town, and in the box was 3 separate clutch assemblies. (It was a big box, with 2 bell housings, Hurst shifter mechanism with shift rods, re-chromed shifter handle, and some small parts). I got to work by taking each one apart and...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com


IIRC, the DC bible recommended extra firewall bracing for power shifting with a high load (3100# (?)) B&B style clutch cover to reduce deflection.

IMO, the small stock Abody inner fender torque shaft brace is almost adequate for a standard duty 10-1/2" clutch set.

Likely you know new TTi torque shafts are available.
Click to expand...

I actually built a set of inner fender torque shaft braces and welded them in. I found some pics of some that AMD made and by how they looked installed I was able to calculate the size, angle and position.. no matter how they distorted the picture (I hate that!). Took about a week of fabricating and installing, but I got them in and it's strong!

IMG_20231020_212914578.jpg
 
toolmanmike said:
Diaphragm pressure plates should be easier on the linkage. You will need to remove the over center spring from the pedal bracket under the dash. There are threads here to show you how.
Click to expand...

Been reading here people removing them. Does it make a difference if you leave it there?
 
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