I will measure and drill another hole to see the difference once I get my mount. Thanks for the help!
Clutch Master Cylinder Mounting
- Thread starter 68 A
- Start date
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goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
I think it was right at the bend on my pedal. That's why I had to shorten and add the piece.
Yes, it is right on the bend...
Parts are here! Ready to ship out. I had 10 made, I'm using one and the other 9 were spoken for, including Hemidenny and mopardude318 from this thread (I'll PM you). If anyone else wants one let me know and I can sell if someone backs out on what I currently have, or can produce more in the future.
Some pictures below showing the mount, backing plate and hardware. If you want a list of the linkage I used to connect to the clutch pedal I will send it and you can order for yourself.
Mounted it up in my 67 Barracuda this afternoon:
Some pictures below showing the mount, backing plate and hardware. If you want a list of the linkage I used to connect to the clutch pedal I will send it and you can order for yourself.
Mounted it up in my 67 Barracuda this afternoon:
Got it! Will be shipped out USPS Monday. Thank you!
mopardude318: your inbox is full, let me know if you still want to buy.
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks,
Steve
Great...please include the component / hardware list
JoesEdge
Well-Known Member
Thank you Denny! That means a lot coming from someone that sells a reputable product!
You found me. The original production run had all of the mounts reserved. I have not heard back from everyone yet, I also have a waiting list if people back out/need to do a second run to meet demand. I will add your name to the list and contact you when I know I have one available for you.
Thanks,
Steve
JoesEdge
Well-Known Member
Sounds good! I'm in!
@68A did you correct the pedal ratio like goldduster318 mentioned? How is it working?
I did not. Look at post # 28 & 29, you can see where I drilled the hole in relation to the spring tab that was cut off. Then following pictures of the linkage and clearance I had with the pedal depressed. I was getting the full stroke of the master cylinder without any interference. My car is not running, so as far as how the clutch releases, I do not know yet.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
Right if you don't change it the pedal stroke is reduced, making the pedal either never go as far down as it should, or it will sit much lower to the floor at rest. You will still fully travel the master cylinder. My main point is it's not anything like the OE pedal stroke and I don't think you'll like it. With the modification, its very hard to tell mine from a mechanical clutch linkage other than its a little lighter and smoother.
Now I understand what your talking about, it didn't sink in last winter.
Hey 68A, hows it going? How is your project coming along, is the car running yet?
I think I'm also finally understanding what goldduster is trying to say. LOL So, yesterday I was working on my setup, and I modified the pivot point on the pedal like goldduster did. I also came up with 1.9" radially from the pivot point is right on that bend. So I did exactly what he did, welded a piece of flat bar stock and drilled the hole. All I can do at this point is now wait, I cant test it, the car is at the body shop so I cant install the engine & trans and try to bleed the system.
I ended up just using the American Powertrain bracket as you can see, I'll finish welding that backing plate on the inside next week, just did some tacks to make sure it was in the right position.
Hey @mopardude318 , project is slow. Farming takes up most of my time currently. I haven't had time to change ratio and try the pedal or to get engine running.
I'm curious why you used the American Powertrain setup. If you would like to return the parts you bought from me I would refund you, as there are some other people that would like to buy it.
I'm curious why you used the American Powertrain setup. If you would like to return the parts you bought from me I would refund you, as there are some other people that would like to buy it.
UPDATE:
I have contacted the machinist, will be ready to produce more within a couple months. I have a list of members here that want to buy from this run. I am trying to determine how many I should have made, if you would like to buy, respond here or send a DM please.
Price is $100, includes the aluminum mounting block, backing plate and hardware to attach to the firewall. I add a parts list for linkage to connect to the clutch pedal.
Thanks,
Steve
I have contacted the machinist, will be ready to produce more within a couple months. I have a list of members here that want to buy from this run. I am trying to determine how many I should have made, if you would like to buy, respond here or send a DM please.
Price is $100, includes the aluminum mounting block, backing plate and hardware to attach to the firewall. I add a parts list for linkage to connect to the clutch pedal.
Thanks,
Steve
Great really want one
You are on the list.
Thanks
No, thank you.
desmo900
Well-Known Member
We had a successful install of my hydraulic throwout bearing and clutch using Steve's adapter. We used the following parts:
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desmo900
Well-Known Member
We replaced the short line on the throwout bearing with the 24" I bought and had a local hose shop Deering Industries) put a 250 degree fitting on one end. This hose was the perfect length to reach the master cylinder:
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desmo900
Well-Known Member
We used studs purchased from the hose shop to mount the master cylinder to the adapter. The Tilton master cylinder is too compact to use bolts. I also got fittings for the remote master cylinder and outlet port of the master cylinder from the hose shop:
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