Clutch Pedal Not Returning

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sublime 340

sublime 340

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I think this is common but maybe not. The clutch pedal does not come back to its original position on my 1970 Dart Swinger. It had this same problem awhile ago and I replaced the nylon bushings in the Z-bar and it went away for awhile. Now I have the same problem again. The bushings were NOS Mopar. First question, are the bushings the root of the problem? Second question, are aftermarket bushings any better than OEM?
 
sublime 340 said:
I think this is common but maybe not. The clutch pedal does not come back to its original position on my 1970 Dart Swinger. It had this same problem awhile ago and I replaced the nylon bushings in the Z-bar and it went away for awhile. Now I have the same problem again. The bushings were NOS Mopar. First question, are the bushings the root of the problem? Second question, are aftermarket bushings any better than OEM?
Click to expand...

No way to know the root of the problem unless we're there. First thing to check is, how much free travel does it have? If it has a lot, that could be the whole issue right there. Adjust it so there's about an inch free travel and that should fix it.
 
Problem is you have to much play in the linkage and the pressure plate is not pushing far enough for the over center spring on the pedal to be pushed over center and return the pedal to the full out position.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Problem is you have to much play in the linkage and the pressure plate is not pushing far enough for the over center spring on the pedal to be pushed over center and return the pedal to the full out position.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will look at the linkage.
 
RustyRatRod said:
No way to know the root of the problem unless we're there. First thing to check is, how much free travel does it have? If it has a lot, that could be the whole issue right there. Adjust it so there's about an inch free travel and that should fix it.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will have to check the travel
 
I had a car that sat in a field for several years and surface rust had formed under the dash....It was enough to make both the clutch and brake pedal stiff and resistant to return to rest.
 
When I put the new style clutch and pressure plate I had same problem I ended up removing the over the top spring and it fixed it. I also did a pedal mod that extends the the arm that hooks to the push rod that goes through firewall it all on my 70 duster build thread
 
If you have the diaphragm style pressure plate, the over center spring is supposed to be removed. If you retain the factory style heavy duty Borg & Beck three finger pressure plate you should keep the over center spring.
 
Agreed. At this point of lack of information, who knows if the under-dash spring is even in the car? Checking the pedal travel comes AFTER knowing what you're working with in the first place.

Curious that it's not even said if the installed clutch is for a chevy (diaphragm). I vote for B&B pressure plates being used for a reason. B/B-Long combo even!

If you can't handle a B&B plate, buy an escort, or put in a 727.

My 5'3" 105lb wife drove our '68 Charger 440 833 (B&B plate) just fine. I'm sure you can drive one.
 
Yeah, he never mentioned what press plate that he was using. Make sure that fork pivot, linkage, and throwout bearing are lubed. Geometry, alignment can be off too. It's probably not just one thing.
 
Could just be worn to the point of needing adjustment or out of adjustment. I recently put a new clutch in(last summer) and just yesterday readjusted it because the pedal was hanging up about an inch shy of full return. Adjusted the bearing to clutch finger clearance and good as new.

Mike
 
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