Clutch Spring Installed Correctly

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Dartswinger70 said:
can you try a longer threaded rod? I have seen different lengths over the years for Mopars also I have seen rods with welded extensions on them. I am referring to the cutch adjustment rod. actually your pic looks like you have more ajustment on the rod, however you need the free play in there as in the throwout bearing shouldnt spin all the time.
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Plenty of rod but I'm maxed out on freeplay. Any more and the bearing will be up against the fingers.
 
blewbyoutobad said:
Plenty of rod but I'm maxed out on freeplay. Any more and the bearing will be up against the fingers.
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Yeah that's what it looks like or that's what happens. so you are saying your engine needs to be "forward" for your clutch adjustment to work?
 
Clearly, something is wrong. The spring in your picture does not hook that way. That little slot in the fork is a hook point, making a tab that would be attached by the z-bar pivot would be the other. Does the RMS mount attach at the engine, or did you use the stock motor mount and that attaches to the RMS mount?
I have this same set up. I do have a Centerforce II diaphragm clutch. I had to do some altering to get it to operate smoothly. Plus, you say the alignment is off on your trans. If that is off, so is your clutch linkage.
Can you get a second pair of eyes to look at it? Your missing something. You can only do so much here.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Clearly, something is wrong. The spring in your picture does not hook that way. That little slot in the fork is a hook point, making a tab that would be attached by the z-bar pivot would be the other. Does the RMS mount attach at the engine, or did you use the stock motor mount and that attaches to the RMS mount?
I have this same set up. I do have a Centerforce II diaphragm clutch. I had to do some altering to get it to operate smoothly. Plus, you say the alignment is off on your trans. If that is off, so is your clutch linkage.
Can you get a second pair of eyes to look at it? Your missing something. You can only do so much here.
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I used all the RMS components. Last night I drilled the bellhousing and attached the spring. Aside from being moved back all the linkage is parallel. I move the z bar ball stud to accommodate for the engine setback. All is parallel and straight. No binding. I will talk to Bill today about that. Heres what I did last night.

IMG_20210818_212000947.jpg


IMG_20210818_212035985.jpg


IMG_20210818_212123042.jpg
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Yeah that's what it looks like or that's what happens. so you are saying your engine needs to be "forward" for your clutch adjustment to work?
Click to expand...
No the adjustment and alignment are correct now based on my mods. The engine is moved back becasue of the Reily Motorsports K frame and engine mounts.
 
Never seen a locking nut used here, on the clutch rod..but OK. But I do see the adjustment nut is *** backwards, the acorn part of the nut should ride in the metal washer, this will help to center the rod and provide a better pivot for rod movement...
 
Dicer said:
Never seen a locking nut used here, on the clutch rod..but OK. But I do see the adjustment nut is *** backwards, the acorn part of the nut should ride in the metal washer, this will help to center the rod and provide a better pivot for rod movement...
Click to expand...
The washer does not have a place for the acorn to drop into. Thats why its backward and the double nut. All these parts came from Brewers.
 
Ok Brewers said the acorn goes against the flat side of the washer. Sure enough it dropped in the hole. So thats fixed. Now on to 3rd and 4th once it cools off.
 
Replaced spring clip on shift rod and everything is working better than before. Smooth with no dragging.
Thanks all for your help.
 
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