as far as i have ever known.... the convex side of the washer goes towards the rubber insulator.
the flat side of the washer to the lock nut
that way there is some flex as the clutch fork moves back i.e the threaded clutch rod stays in the middle of the eye of the clutch fork during its full motion.
If there is reduced flex caused by the washer having its curved side facing the lock nut and the flat side providing a solid and total support of the rubber insulator the threaded rod tends to push towards the outside of the eye in the clutch fork, and this in turn by way of reaction to this, tries to push the opposite Eye end off the stud on the z bar.
Basically if the weird chrysler specific clip and the nylon disks are all chewed on your car this could be why.
on my car with the convex washer the wrong way i loose clips with it round to what i think is the right way I don't.
i was lead to believe this was correct years ago by a bloke who basically said why would they tool up and pay for a curved face to a washer and then not use it by facing it away from the action
i am happy to be wrong as my experience is just with australian stuff
it uses a similar set up apart from the threaded road is the next thread size up, has no D section down one side and the set-up uses two half height nuts to lock the adjustment
other than that the washer is the same in all respects apart from centre bore hole is round and a little bigger, and the rubber insulator is identical
