Coil Over vs Torsion Bar

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i'd rather have the rack. just no comparison.. my shitbox 71 dart felt like a modern car around town and on the highway.. it was just so nice to drive. have a stock style front end in jamies dart and hate it..
 
The steering rack is an amazing thing, I will admit that but a $5000 coil over setup is a steep price to pay when you can have equal or better handling at 2/3 the cost by sticking with a stock based setup.


like i stated earlier .. the two are a lot closer in price then many think..

TVS kit $2100 TVS (Total Vehicle Suspension) System 1973-1976 Dodge A-Body
Torsion bars $239 but this site gets discount 1.03" Torsion Bar - A Body
front end kit $359 assuming you are running 73-up disc brakes. also discounted through this site. Original Performance Super Front End Kit
shocks $435 but again can be discounted through site. may also want to upgrade to even better shocks but are more expensive. Bilstein High Performance Shock Set - Front & Rear
steering box $836 Bergman Auto Craft - Home of the Modern Muscle Car


up to $3959 (without site discounts) already and that doesn't include a brake kit, bearings, brake hoses and the other lil **** you'll end up needing by the time you are done... at this point its not near as much cheaper then an alter-k as many make it seem.. some upgrades you may consider during the process fox shocks(not sure on the price but more expensive then what i posted above) and adjustable strut rods think rms has them for $249 (pst sells rms strut rods with a pst decal on it)... so now you are over 4K for a stock style suspension... then if you can't press bushings in and out at home or a friends you may have to pay for that on top of the parts.



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Here's an option.

TTI Headers p/n 636 A

Requires some mods to transmission crossmember I think but fit great!


View attachment 1715243078
Thanks for that pic,looks a good fit.Familiar w/Appliance.Remember,I have side exhaust,may give in and exit inner fenders to join side pipes.(potential conflict with laws regarding external pipes)So ---have options to consider.Basic concern c/o verses t/b was space limitations,removed p/s to install 340 stock manifolds,want more power thus headers etc.66 chassis limitations concerning width or lack thereof.Have not had flex prob that am aware,but have very stiff B body bellhousing and clutch setup,my 340 is very stout,mild mods,was out of 70 Dart only 5k miles,hit cement barn,LOL,has dbl vale springs,big valve heads,have only 600cfm Holly and needs bigger fuel lines,runs out of fuel around 10k rpms.Hence my interest in beefing up chassis etc.MUST HAVE MORE! Thanks again,S
 
Comparing a classic car to a new car? Really???
A Factory torsion bar car can handle as well or even better than a new one with proper parts selection. A solid platform with frame connectors, torque boxes, urethane bushings, properly valved shocks and a Borgeson steering box can be quite impressive.
The steering rack is an amazing thing, I will admit that but a $5000 coil over setup is a steep price to pay when you can have equal or better handling at 2/3 the cost by sticking with a stock based setup.
If you are hung up on having the newest shiny object for the car, this logic will not register with you.
Good comparo about capabilities,but even the Polara could be made to handle relevent to the amount of $ thrown into it,right? Not being cynical,almost anything can be improved with enough resources,well maybe not a 2Cv !
 
It seems to me that everyone considers coil over front suspension an upgrade to the torsion bar setup. ...why?
Is it really superior?
I thought torsion bar suspension was supposed to be one of the big benifits over Ford and Chevy?

Let's discuss


Jeff
well now I'm confused- I've been seriously considering the coil over front suspension, but the argument for the torsion bar which I've always seen as awesome suspension, looking like a keeper.
my issue is-I have 2-1/8" headers for a '64 B body and I don't think they will clear on the A body platform, any comment on that? (comment meaning help)
 
well now I'm confused- I've been seriously considering the coil over front suspension, but the argument for the torsion bar which I've always seen as awesome suspension, looking like a keeper.
my issue is-I have 2-1/8" headers for a '64 B body and I don't think they will clear on the A body platform, any comment on that? (comment meaning help)

Time for new headers.
 
yeh- easy for you to say these are brand new- still have that fresh welded smell . I'm $800.00 into non returnable headers- I just changed what car they'd be used in. think ahead??me? never

Well, in that case, buy a different car to fit the headers. :lol:
 
well now I'm confused- I've been seriously considering the coil over front suspension, but the argument for the torsion bar which I've always seen as awesome suspension, looking like a keeper.
my issue is-I have 2-1/8" headers for a '64 B body and I don't think they will clear on the A body platform, any comment on that? (comment meaning help)
Are you thinking a coil over suspension conversion is gonna be cheaper than headers that fit?
 
Are you thinking a coil over suspension conversion is gonna be cheaper than headers that fit?

That was going to be my question. Look if you want coil over, its your car, do what you want. There are all the reasons in the world online (on this forum/thread) why coil over either is or isn't the way to go. Personally, I would say that if you are willing to do the reengineering necessary to make the front end strong enough for coil over then roll with it, but I would just as quickly say that the car was not designed for it and IMO you are not gaining enough to make it worth the expense and effort. However the "sex" appeal might make it worth it to others. I get the header issue, but as alluded to here, are you willing to spend $4K+ so that your $800 headers fit or would you rather sell them off at say $600 and then add $400 and get headers that do fit.
 
In all fairness, it doesn't have to take $4000 to switch to coilovers. I switched to coilovers on my 66 for pretty much the same price as it would've cost as if I purchased new torsion bars and decent shocks.
 
In all fairness, it doesn't have to take $4000 to switch to coilovers. I switched to coilovers on my 66 for pretty much the same price as it would've cost as if I purchased new torsion bars and decent shocks.

Not trying to be argumentative or a dick, but I would be very interested in seeing the numbers on this. Again, not saying it isn't true, just that I would like to understand the details.
 
Not trying to be argumentative or a dick, but I would be very interested in seeing the numbers on this. Again, not saying it isn't true, just that I would like to understand the details.

Sure! The single adjustable Strange coilovers and coil springs were about $440. Oh yeah, forgot the tubular uppers as well - paid a couple hundred for those. There was a little bit of fabrication involved of course with the upper mounts, lower control arms and supports, etc. On my 66, I'm fighting for every ounce of space as I can get to make some headers, with the big block and mid plate in the way.
 
Thats cool, but you have to admit that it wasn't really "close" to retaining the T bar system, in fact I think you could argue that going that route actually cost 2 to 3 times more. Not hating on your system and it sounds cool, but to make the argument it should be a "apples to apples" comparison. That said, it sounds like a neat setup overall.
 
in fact I think you could argue that going that route actually cost 2 to 3 times more.

Not sure I understand that. What's a set of torsion bars and decent shocks run these days? For what I'm doing with my car anyway, the cost difference was a wash. Unless of course you wanna count my labor. I like to think that part is worthless though :rofl:
 
A set of FF bars are like $330, so thats pretty much a wash with your coil overs, however you said you bought tubular UCAs which run around $400 (from FF), but if you got a deal on them then yeah I can agree with your statement. Again, not trying to start any crap, just trying to see how it was done. Thanks for the responses, I might look into this when I do my 68 Cuda.
 
Not sure I understand that. What's a set of torsion bars and decent shocks run these days? For what I'm doing with my car anyway, the cost difference was a wash. Unless of course you wanna count my labor. I like to think that part is worthless though :rofl:
To me shocks and T bars cost about 6-700$. Your setup seems like a great deal. Dustin.
 
I sold my '64 B body 330 Dodge and got a '67 Barracuda fast back, always loved them bought a pre owned '69 Cuda 440 in 1970, $1600.00, dealer couldn't get rid of it, I seen it, no problem, it's gone.
service man back east bought it new drove it to calif and traded it for?? had less than 3000 miles on it.
 
Sell 'em - even if its a break even or small loss in money. Even if you have to be patient to find a buyer.
There's no guarentee that even with all the time and money to change suspension that headers intended for a B-body will fit an A-body.
Then get headers and suspension that are oriented toward the intended use, whether its street driving or drag racing.
 
thats all good advice and I agree- however I find myself in a situation in which if I sell these buying others may be impossible because of $$$. I live on SS only.the cost of headers is around $800.00 and that is half a month of SS.
however- coil over front suspension answers the problem, by getting rid of the torsion bars- which I agree are one of best suspension made. whats worse due to health issue I may have to farm most of the work out.
 
i'd rather have the rack. just no comparison.. my shitbox 71 dart felt like a modern car around town and on the highway.. it was just so nice to drive. have a stock style front end in jamies dart and hate it..

You talkin about ole yeller? It sure was a shitbox, but man that car was cool. I still caint believe you got rid of it. I wouldda drove it till it fell apart......wait.......maybe you did. lol
 
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