Coil spring suspension question on a D100

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PanGasket

PanGasket

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I have front coil spring suspension on my '74 D100, I was wondering if I took the set of /6 springs and replaced the original 360 2bbl springs with them, would my front end sit lower or would it change nothing at all? My buddy has a foxbody and changed his rear coil springs to the 4 cyl coil springs and his rear end dropped a little bit and gained him a little more traction. I am just looking to get my front end a lil lower with whats on hand really.

Any input is appreciated :cheers:
 
IF they are handy, its worth a try to see.
Cheapest alternative from that,apart from the (unsafe imho)heating and cutting coils....is getting 1 ton Bvan lower controls arms with the deeper spring pockets.
 
Todlich said:
IF they are handy, its worth a try to see.
Cheapest alternative from that,apart from the (unsafe imho)heating and cutting coils....is getting 1 ton Bvan lower controls arms with the deeper spring pockets.
Click to expand...

I have a set of them I pulled off an '84 D100 with the slant. And i may have to try that too because those vans never get touched in my area. I'm trying to get a total of 2" lower on all 4 corners of my truck without breaking the bank
 
redlined said:
Springs are the same regardless of engine.
Click to expand...

incorrect,

spring rate is different for a 6 cylinder to 8 cylinder engine. don't believe me? put a v8 in where a slant came out of and watch it drop!

also the springs differ from D-100 to 150 and 250/350 there all of different size and spring rate

on a side note don't put slant springs in, it will understeer like a ba$tard!
 
66plyValiant said:
incorrect,

spring rate is different for a 6 cylinder to 8 cylinder engine. don't believe me? put a v8 in where a slant came out of and watch it drop!

also the springs differ from D-100 to 150 and 250/350 there all of different size and spring rate

on a side note don't put slant springs in, it will understeer like a ba$tard!
Click to expand...

Thank you, I though it'd be a different spring rate for the weight. But I didn't know it'd cause understeer. Whats the best way to get springs to lower the front of my truck?
 
DarTT said:
Thank you, I though it'd be a different spring rate for the weight. But I didn't know it'd cause understeer. Whats the best way to get springs to lower the front of my truck?
Click to expand...


buy lowering springs and the proper shocks, the ride will be the same or better then you have now

if you try and lower it redneck style it won't handle good at all and may or maynot get the stance you want; it could sag worse after awhile and be too low
 
A friend of mine put a set of 2" drop spindles on his 84 dodge drag truck.
This was a while back and they were hard to find. But the stance was great.
 
66plyValiant said:
buy lowering springs and the proper shocks, the ride will be the same or better then you have now

if you try and lower it redneck style it won't handle good at all and may or maynot get the stance you want; it could sag worse after awhile and be too low
Click to expand...

should I find a spring shop to make them or where could I find them?

sireland67 said:
A friend of mine put a set of 2" drop spindles on his 84 dodge drag truck.
This was a while back and they were hard to find. But the stance was great.
Click to expand...

Hmm, who made them?
 
DarTT said:
should I find a spring shop to make them or where could I find them?



Hmm, who made them?
Click to expand...


search the web for lowering springs, there a coil or so shorter then normal ones

spring shops usually specialize in leaf springs but its worth a shot
 
66plyValiant said:
incorrect,

spring rate is different for a 6 cylinder to 8 cylinder engine. don't believe me? put a v8 in where a slant came out of and watch it drop!

also the springs differ from D-100 to 150 and 250/350 there all of different size and spring rate

on a side note don't put slant springs in, it will understeer like a ba$tard!
Click to expand...

Do a search for replacement springs, you'll find ONE part number for stock replacement springs for D100, D150, D250's w/o 4000lb axle, and NO mention of engine size. There are heavy duty and severe duty springs offered, but again, ONE part number for each of those, for ALL D series 100/150/250 trucks.
I've driven/hot rodded/researched D series Dodge trucks for 20 years. Here's a pic of my '84 D100, was a factory slant 6 truck. 440 motor, with one coil cut off the the stock 6 banger springs. About a 1.5" drop. Will a big block squat the nose more than a slant? Of course, but Ma Mopar was too cheap to make a specific rate spring for every engine combination. Research further, and you'll discover that 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks use the same upper/lower control arms, ball joints and tie rod ends.

And for what it's worth, add a factory front sway bar and the understeer problem is greatly reduced. These trucks plow and wallow like a pig with no sway bar regardless of engine, though admittedly, the more nose heavy it is the worse it gets, for obvious reasons. If you have manual steering, ditch it. I've gotten this truck crossed up and it's nearly impossible to crank the slow ratio manual steering quick enough to get it gathered up again.
 

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redlined said:
Do a search for replacement springs, you'll find ONE part number for stock replacement springs for D100, D150, D250's w/o 4000lb axle, and NO mention of engine size. There are heavy duty and severe duty springs offered, but again, ONE part number for each of those, for ALL D series 100/150/250 trucks.
I've driven/hot rodded/researched D series Dodge trucks for 20 years. Here's a pic of my '84 D100, was a factory slant 6 truck. 440 motor, with one coil cut off the the stock 6 banger springs. About a 1.5" drop. Will a big block squat the nose more than a slant? Of course, but Ma Mopar was too cheap to make a specific rate spring for every engine combination. Research further, and you'll discover that 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks use the same upper/lower control arms, ball joints and tie rod ends.

And for what it's worth, add a factory front sway bar and the understeer problem is greatly reduced. These trucks plow and wallow like a pig with no sway bar regardless of engine, though admittedly, the more nose heavy it is the worse it gets, for obvious reasons. If you have manual steering, ditch it. I've gotten this truck crossed up and it's nearly impossible to crank the slow ratio manual steering quick enough to get it gathered up again.
Click to expand...
which trucks came factory with a sway bar?
 
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