Coil Wiring Question

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salinasjoel

salinasjoel

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I am taking out my points distributor and replacing it with a petronix system. I also got the flame thrower coil to go with it. I called petronix to make sure I was reading the diagram properly but I am supposed to remove the ballast resistor as the coil needs all 12 volts. I was going to mount the new coil and have been cleaning up my wiring as I go. The issue is that there is more coming off the ballast then just the coil wire. I then went to mymopar and looked at the wiring diagram and it has the same deal. 1 side runs in from the wiring block and out to the coil and the other runs in from the wiring block and out to the alternator regulator. My question is what should I do to run the coil wire without the ballast? Do I need to get a ballast just for the alternator regulator? If so what ohm?
Any help is appreciated
Thanks
 
Just jumper across the wires that go to the ballast as if you were bypassing it.
(By "jumper across" I actually mean wire as if the ballast never existed.)
 
The regulator is GETTING voltage from the same place the coil resistor is---the ignition switch, so that terminal is a junction point

Here's what you have

A---ONE END of the resistor

1--from the bulkhead comes the "ignition run" wire, called "IGN 1" by Ma, traditionally dark blue, which is the only switched 12V source coming into the engine bay from the ignition switch, hot ONLY in run, NOT in start. THAT is important

2--branching off from that first terminal is the wiring going to the regulator, and on 70/ later cars, it also feeds the (blue) alternator field, electric choke if used, idle solenoid if used, and distributor retard solenoid if used, and, maybe, some other smog doo dad on some cars.

B--OTHER END of the resistor

1--the wire going from the resistor to the coil +

2--The resistor bypass circuit. This is a brown wire coming off a separate contact from the ign switch, and is hot ONLY in start, gives you a good hot voltage directly to the coil for starting. Ma calls this "IGN2",

To bypass the ballast you MUST hook all four wires together, either by cutting off the connectors and using appropriate connectors, soldering, or by using a back to back pair of male "push on" connectors to simply hook the two connectors together.
 
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