cold weather edelbrock

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bigdemo1

bigdemo1

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Well winter is here,-30 or so,now my eddy perf.750 is running like crap.I've set it up according to the book,however it runs horrible,starts perfect but after 5 mins.or so of driving misses and bogs and pops like crazy anyone have any exp.running these in the cold?I recently bought 2 3310's on ebay maybe I should just swap?they are man.chokes,can't drive my truck like this fouling plugs like crazy.
 
-30, wow…

What intake? Is it an air gap? Is the manifold heat cross over blocked?

Unless you are running a non air gap manifold with an open heat cross over I doubt switching to a holley will help.
 
Yes,-30 within a month it will be -40 or worse.Intake is an rpm performer crossover unblocked,wandering more about jetting/metering rods.Some of my old sleds had jet/temp charts.Looking for something like that.
 
one question, when it starts running bad, is the choke still closed (assuming elec choke)? I have had to tweak the choke on mine a bit as the temp changes.... another thing I have done is let it warm up for 5 minutes or so then turn it off for 5-10. It seems like the engine starts to warm up but the cold air coming in the carb keeps it from warming up at all. turning it off for a few minutes warms it up enough from the bottom that it runs fine after that....
 
I'd go 1 heat range hotter on the plugs and put a small bottle of gas line antifreeze into her. Your carb could be icing off.
 
Truck is plugged in when not being used so engine is warm,run 500ml of gasline antifreeze every fill(methyl hydrate)Allready turned choke up several notches,turned my metering rod covers sideways to see spring action at idle in gear rods dance up and down steady so I will go to a stiffer spring,probably two steps smaller on metering rod second step.Also I installed new 8mm pro stock wires and replaced cap and button just in case,covered rad opening to keep cold air out,need new heat stove.Someone here out of 12000 members must ice drag or winter 4 wheel,Edelbrock was no help,if I can't make it work does anyone know how to set up a 3310(750 vac sec.) for the cold.
 
demon seed said:
I'd go 1 heat range hotter on the plugs and put a small bottle of gas line antifreeze into her. Your carb could be icing off.
Click to expand...
what kind of air cleaner are you running being that cold you mite want to run a stock one with the warm air tube hooked up with a piece of duck tape over the cold air hole and if you have headers put the warm air tube between the tubes.so its geting warmer air.
 
with air that cold just the moisture in the air is freezing wen it goes in the carb.thats been my experince.
 
I think you should put your choke back to normal, if by "turned up several notches" you mean it was richened more. These carbs are kind of finicky as far as the choke goes and you might be giving it too much for too long. Remember, turning the black thermostat cover changes how far the choke closes and how long it takes for it to open completely. You might be making the choke stay closed more than it needs to.

Also you might want to try setting up your engine bay so your air cleaner can get warm underhood air, or even a "heat riser" setup like on stock Mopar engines with single or dual snorkel air cleaners. I have an open-element air cleaner on my 318 but I have no hood scoops or cold-air induction so the air going into the carb is never cold enough to ice it.
 
Have the heat stove hooked up but I would like to build a better one for my heddars,all cold air entrances blocked in rad support,stock 4 bubble cleaner for winter,doesn't appear to be icing(my aspen R/T did that alot in Nova Scotia winters,the damn thing would be solid ice some days.I am wandering if I should remove my phenolic spacer and run a thin carb gasket.
 
get a soup can cut both ends out one end cut a half round hole in the end then take a piece of sheet metal pop rivet it to other side and use a hose clamp around header. (I forget what can fits that hose)then wen it warms up you can take it off.
 
I will try to fab up a better stove,like the soup can,excellant idea.
 
Well got it running better,added a better heat stove(sheatmetal box over the center two hedder tubes and the old exhaust manifold outlet riveted to it)also checked voltage to choke,didn't have twelve.Removed phenolic spacer,checked float lift and drop,edelbrock says 15/16"to 1 and 1/4"I went with 15/16",lift at 7/16"went 1 smaller on step-up springs and changed out my vacuum line to thermostat door and iridium plugs and finally backed out timing 2 degrees,finally it is driveable,now if I had some traction.
 
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