Comp 828 lifters

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19DUSTER73

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Hi guys,

The comp 828 roller lifters may need clearancing in the valley but do not require tubing the block or bushing lifter bores unless the cut out for the roller exposes the oil holes in the bore?

Do I have that right?
 
Yep. You WILL need some grinding in the valley, not MAY need. Those lifters do not have oil to the rollers. They rely on splash oiling. Comp 8043 need no grinding and have direct oil to the roller. Also, the Comp 8043 will more than likely expose the oil hole in the bore
Just a FWIW.
 
Thanks Ironmike. I already have the lifters and prepped the valley. Just coverin the bases.
 
Sounds like you're ready to roll. Just make sure to prime the engine before you put the intake on, to check for the dreaded lifter oil puke thing. If I remember correctly the 828's rarely cause this issue. But I'd certainly check it.

Worse case scenario, you may have to send your cam back to have the base circle lowered. But that's a worse case thing......good luck man!
 
The 828's I'm using in my 416 have solid bodies. No chance of exposing the oil rail. But yes I had to clearance the block for them.
 
The 828's I'm using in my 416 have solid bodies. No chance of exposing the oil rail. But yes I had to clearance the block for them.
You know i thought that, thats why i said they are less likely to cause a problem. I just couldnt remember for sure. Its been awhile since I looked at them. Definitely a nice piece.
 
I will never build another solid lifter cam or roller lifter small block mopar again without tubing it. We ran into issues with my sons 360 last year with a small 610 lift roller cam. I tried three different types of roller lifters and ended up blocking off the oil
With a set screw on the other side to get pressure up. Prime your engine with the intake off and you will see how much wasted oil could be going to your bearings. I was shocked
 
I will never build another solid lifter cam or roller lifter small block mopar again without tubing it. We ran into issues with my sons 360 last year with a small 610 lift roller cam. I tried three different types of roller lifters and ended up blocking off the oil
With a set screw on the other side to get pressure up. Prime your engine with the intake off and you will see how much wasted oil could be going to your bearings. I was shocked
Was the block a non roller block?
What roller lifters did you try?
I ask because I wondered about NOT tubing the galley. If it was actually a mandatory thing to do. I understand it is a oil (bleed) control system used and suggested by MoPar.
 
Was the block a non roller block?
What roller lifters did you try?
I ask because I wondered about NOT tubing the galley. If it was actually a mandatory thing to do. I understand it is a oil (bleed) control system used and suggested by MoPar.


All my blocks are old style LA blocks. He was given a set of slightly used roller lifters from a Friend that he had used with success but I honestly don't know if that block was tubed. I had a brand new set of Bam lifter I bought for my next build and those did not help either. We ended up with the comp 828's that were in my 408, added a high volume pump, (no good) I restricted the oil to the Edelbrock heads, (no good) So I pulled the front apart and drilled and tapped the front galley so I could use a set-screw to block oil to 8 of the lifters. All is good now and that engine ran 6.54 first time out with zero tuning. But like I said above. I will never build another one without tubing it after seeing how much oil is WASTED, doing nothing.
 
Is the wasted oil due to the lifter be raised to high in the lifter bore and exposing the oil galley? Or do the lifters just let by too much oil? I had assumed all is well with the solid bodied lifters as long as the lift isn't so big that it exposes the oil galley holes in the lifter bores.

Thanks for the replies guys.
 
Is the wasted oil due to the lifter be raised to high in the lifter bore and exposing the oil galley? Or do the lifters just let by too much oil? I had assumed all is well with the solid bodied lifters as long as the lift isn't so big that it exposes the oil galley holes in the lifter bores.

Thanks for the replies guys.
 
Is the wasted oil due to the lifter be raised to high in the lifter bore and exposing the oil galley? Or do the lifters just let by too much oil? I had assumed all is well with the solid bodied lifters as long as the lift isn't so big that it exposes the oil galley holes in the lifter bores.

Thanks for the replies guys.


With that HUGE open hole in both oil galleys its just begging for way to much oil to escape and fall down on the crank. Why not limit the oil and push the wasted oil down to the bearings. To each his own.
 
Guess I got lucky? I used the solid body Comp 828 and have more oil pressure than I need really. Without using bushings.
 
All my blocks are old style LA blocks. He was given a set of slightly used roller lifters from a Friend that he had used with success but I honestly don't know if that block was tubed. I had a brand new set of Bam lifter I bought for my next build and those did not help either. We ended up with the comp 828's that were in my 408, added a high volume pump, (no good) I restricted the oil to the Edelbrock heads, (no good) So I pulled the front apart and drilled and tapped the front galley so I could use a set-screw to block oil to 8 of the lifters. All is good now and that engine ran 6.54 first time out with zero tuning. But like I said above. I will never build another one without tubing it after seeing how much oil is WASTED, doing nothing.
Thanks buddy. Last question about that set up. After you drilled and tapped the front drivers galley up front, did you use a cross over tube for oil feeding of the galley?

Thanks for your help.
 
Thanks buddy. Last question about that set up. After you drilled and tapped the front drivers galley up front, did you use a cross over tube for oil feeding of the galley?

Thanks for your help.


I don't know how PBR does it but I tube anything with a solid lifter. And I never use a cross over. After you tube the passenger side galley, and block the passenger side feed at the number 1 main bore, there is no need for it. I also question the need for it even if you don't bush.

But that's how I do mine.
 
Thanks buddy. Last question about that set up. After you drilled and tapped the front drivers galley up front, did you use a cross over tube for oil feeding of the galley?

Thanks for your help.


No I’ve never used the crossover tube either. After this experience I bought a new long bit on eBay or Amazon as my other one was getting pretty old
 
Thanks fellas, thanks. Approaching this point soon.
 
What does your junk weigh in at?
I’m (very) slowly working on a ‘71 Duster. Weight reduction is the first thing to tackle while doing the body work and cage. It’s a 3 in 1 deal that all works together
 
What does your junk weigh in at?
I’m (very) slowly working on a ‘71 Duster. Weight reduction is the first thing to tackle while doing the body work and cage. It’s a 3 in 1 deal that all works together


2850 now at the line. I was 2570 but I turned it into an old man’s car and put steel doors on it with wind up windows, better cooling system, alternator, RacePak, and a few other items to make it user friendly. Ohhhh and the driver got fatter too
 
WoW! That’s fantastic. Thanks. I’ll consider that my target goal.
User friendly equipment isn’t a bad thing ether. I’d still like to “Street” mine once in a while.
And speaking of this driver.... LOL!
Ehhh, I’m not to bad.
 
I will never build another solid lifter cam or roller lifter small block mopar again without tubing it. We ran into issues with my sons 360 last year with a small 610 lift roller cam. I tried three different types of roller lifters and ended up blocking off the oil
With a set screw on the other side to get pressure up. Prime your engine with the intake off and you will see how much wasted oil could be going to your bearings. I was shocked
Yeah. I've seen it and it's pretty shocking. I actually bought the tube kit for the engine I'm running now, but we bushed the lifter bores instead. Left them a little long and nice and tight. Very little loss. Using the BAM lifters. Second set I have in use now.

Bushing is certainly not a cost effective way to cure it, compared to tubing, but along the way we found out the drivers bank was a little "off".
I had a ton of machine work in it already so had to bite the bullet.
 
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