Complete overhaul aftermarket electrical system.

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1969ProDart

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Ok fabo, might need a little (alot) of electrical help on this one.
Purpose of this thread is is to figure out what are the safest and ways to wire my system with what i have at the moment. And to find out if I should use my oem parts or get new updated parts such as electrical components from madelectrical.

Ok for my electrical system this is what I have currently (parts wise) sitting in the garage.

Electric fans- 3 total: 2 push , 1pull
Electric fuel pump
Electric water pump
6 Autometer gauges (including volt meter)
Fuel sender
Msd 6al w/ msd pro billet
Battery is trunk mounted
6 Rocker switch panel with a push start switch

-All is going to be powered by a Denso 120 amp 210-0138
So I shouldn't have any issues with charging/power

-Wire harness is from EZ wiring

Now I could search for diagrams( which I've done so for the past week) to get what I need done, but nothing I find really gives me a solid way to get what I want.

I just don't want to piece my system together searching "how to wire my alternator" with "how to route my harness" and "wiring my msd system" diagrams and not knowing if it will all correspond to each other.

So what I need to know a solid way to wire my setup the safest way so I don't go up in flames at random.
I need to know if I need to go and get a startm up kit or relays,or whatever it is. Any input is helpful.

Thanks.
 
I'd route everything heavy by it's own relay and heavy gauge wire, to switches where applicable. Use common sense, if it draws a big load, relay it. All wires have max amp draw per gauge size, look it up, don't forget ammeter bypass and the headlight upgrade while your at it.

Have fun!
 
Yea I have an ez wiring harness. But the booklet included is vauge and for oem connections. I'm not doing a bulkhead connector either so ammeter is out the window. Setting up a volt meter.
 
I did the EZ as well and installed separate relays for the fans, fuel pump, and electric water pump. I probably didn't have to do the fuel pump since it only draws like 5 amps but did anyway.
 
Yea, (clinteg) I went through your thread of your build. Doing something similar. Buying that headlight switch you got too. Didn't want mine on the floor either.
 
Many newer cars use underhood fuse/ relay boxes which can be adapted to feed stuff like this. I'm using one out of a Voyager. Bussman makes boxes, which you can configure yourself to provide fuses and relays, and there are several suppliers that sell these and other boxes already configured.

Voyager box as example:

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Bussman box:

P1030514.JPG


I would CERTAINLY use a relay to feed the pump, as it likely is at the rear and is at a fairly long run of wire. Also consider getting a "crash" switch such as out of a Ford Ranger for the pump, and consider some sort of oil fail switch for same.

Biggest ***** I have with the aftermarket wiring harnesses, is half of them don't have online destructions, and a few don't address many of the Mopar "tricks," the ignition bypass circuit being one.

Rewiring goes without saying becomes an excellent time to upsize the weak Mopar wiring and install such things as headlight relays. One thing you must watch about the "Bosch style" relays is that some have a diode built into the base for switch transient protection. This makes them polarity sensitive, IE if you reverse the coil connections, you will just blow up the control circuit.

Like this:

Terminal 85 MUST be the ground (negative) side

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/johnst26/relay.jpg
 
Yea I wanted to upgrade and overkill as much as I could on wiring. That's one thing I don't want to cut corners on. Any addition for safetynI'm all for it
 
Also consider getting a "crash" switch such as out of a Ford Ranger for the pump

I did this as well. Got a switch that fits my DD '98 Ranger from Autozone. Found it didn't come with the pigtail so I went to the salvage yard and picked one up. You could just get the pigtail and switch from the salvage yard as well. You can also use it as a hidden kill switch if you want. There's a little slot that a key or something slim that will fit through under the reset button to trip it.
 
Just looked it up," inertia switch" I believe. How does it get mounted, isn't three I certain direction for it to be faced
 
Yes that's exactly what it is, an intertia switch. It just needs to be mounted vertically. I believe it's designed so that it will shut off in a front, rear, or side impact. I was concerned that it would trip during a hard launch, but after messing with it, I don't think that it will. You have to actually impact it to get it to trip. Moving it back and forth as fast as you can doesn't trip it but as soon as to slap it against something, it goes. I'm running a footbrake car so I shouldn't see any issues like one MIGHT see on a trans brake car.
 
Called mad electrical today. Don't have the startem up kit any more. Something about the manufacture not producing quality solenoids any more. But I did get the trunk mount kit helper. 80$! Gone up in prices I can tell you that. But the guy is extremely nice!
 
Im currently rewiring my car right now also. I to have the EZ wire harness and for the most part its fairly laid out. I've had to make 3 calls to Sean so far and he is very helpful and explains it so you understand. Although getting thru to him is another story.

I installed relays for headlights (high and low beam), and fans. I will also be installing a electric fuel pump in the future so I will prewire a relay and run all the wiring so when Im ready to install it, it will be ready to go. Im just about finished up with the kit. I have the 5 ignition wires to terminate (which Im a bit confused on since I switched over to HEI) so Im just going to terminate them per the instructions to start with. Then the rest of the dash, and figure out how to get the interior lights to operate off the door switches. I did have to run wires for wiper motor, washer pump and all the grounds for various things. There where a couple wires that where to short straight from the harness and I had to splice them, but overall Im fairly happy with the kit.

I think that with everything that was mentioned you pretty much have it all set to go.
 
I doubt anybody makes a pre-wired kit that fits your customization, so you will have to do a lot of detailed planning with any store-bought kit, so you have to wonder how much easier than doing it from scratch would be. You could pay for custom engineering, but at maybe 20 hr x $100/hr, you'd probably decline.

In my 64 & 65 A's, I built my own engine wiring using a relay/fuse box from a 95-99 Jeep. If you do similar, don't go 2000+ since most of those boxes changed to connectored wire feeds to the box, which would be harder to customize. My setups allow for 9 relays, as I recall, for headlamps, ignition, horn, starter, fuel pump, fan, ... 67Dart273 did similar. Not technically hard, just a lot of work on winter nights while watching TV. Definitely a "dining table" job, not on the car wiring until the finale.
 
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