Compressed Air Piping

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Jesse Martin said:
Copper is great, Just set this up for painting to help with removing water, the cost is on the higher side but like others said heat dissipation is great with it, added valve to the bottoms to drain water build up.View attachment 1715341741
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That looks good. What did you use for flexible connection between the tank and the hard pipe on the wall?
 
This compressor company says copper can be safely used:
Guide to Compressed Air Piping Systems | Quincy Compressor

Might see if you can get it from a HVAC supply company like United.
Tip: HVAC industry calls out sizes for copper tubes by the outside diameter. Basically the same way most of industry does for tubing ( and hoses are inside dia.).
In plumbing, the same size copper tubing is called out as if its pipe - by a nominal inside diameter.
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If you're buying fittings from a HVAC supply place, just tell them what O.D. you need the fitting to match. That way there should be less chance of confusion. I don't remember if they typically use nominal sizes for fittings. And even if I did, it doesn't mean its done that way where you live.
 
moparstud440 said:
Only an idiot would use PVC, It is not a matter of it will fail, but when. If I had to plumb my garage I'd prob go with the blue stuff and it seems like the nicest, but I understand wanting to be able to go and pickup what you need nearby instead of having to order and wait for it.
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I must be an idiot , I put schedule 80 in about 40ish yrs . ago , and dam u know I`ve never had a problem w/ it !!
 
Mattax said:
Landlord thought PVC was a good idea for running air to all the garages.
View attachment 1715330228
Here's a few pieces of it.
Got lucky on the repairs to my car. The dent missed the stripes by just enough that a very skilled body guy was able to pull it and touch up the dent using the body color alone.
Yes the landlord paid for the repair.
Here's one of the chunks that blew apart and flew across the shop.

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WRONG TYPE !
 
moparmat2000 said:
At the bottom of your runs where the hose fittings come out you should drop the tube down about a foot below it, and put a drain petcock. This will allow a last place for water to collect before your air hose starts so you can drain it off. Even with a water air seperator this helps as a last defense.

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Commonly called a drip leg, for those of u in loma linda !!!
 
edit: Somehow I accidently revived a thread from May!
Sorry Bob and anyone else. We already covered this.


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Landlord of my garage thought it was a good idea too. :eek:
This was the biggest chunk I picked up.
He got to pay to pull the dent out of the roof of my notchback.
Still pisses me off that I had to get the car fixed because he insisted on running air using pvc through my garage.
:mad:
 
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I see that the RapidAir system is only rated to 200 psi at 70* and it goes down the higher the temp is.

My compressor runs at 175 psi, that seems a little too close to the top end rating on the RapidAir system to be safe to me. Thoughts??
 
Put a pressure regulator at the compressor, and set it at 140 - 150 lbs coming out. You don't need 175 psi for anything. I have mine set at 125 psi.
 
DesertRat said:
I used 1/2" galvanized pipe with the compressor outside and flexed into the shop. Regulator and air traps with multiple taps and retractable hose reels at each end. I had to cut and thread the pipe but 1/2" is easy to do. Mounted it with electrical fittings and straps. It has worked flawlessly including delivering clean enough air to paint with.View attachment 1715330198View attachment 1715330200 View attachment 1715330199
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Gee Desertrat,did those cabinets and counter come from a medical facility?
 
64mopar said:
Gee Desertrat,did those cabinets and counter come from a medical facility?
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No LOL, I am pretty particular about my auto work area is all. I built the house with the garage specifically to build cars. I just couldn't swing the lift:)
You know-the bride had her list too. Thanks for noticing though---------------------:)
 
Ours did.
Plumbing the air lines are next,will probably use the blue aluminum as well.

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Plastic air line pipe is the new way and safest. NO Copper or PVC. I ran 1/2 steel water pipe. 30 years ago still works great. 110 lbs in lines consistant. Remember always run up hill from the compressor so moisture drains back to the compressor. Put at least a 12 inch nipple under the fitting at the bottom of the drop and a drain at the bottom of nipple. We also have a automatic electric water drain in the tank that activates every hour to keep water out of the tank. we still get water at the drops and drain them when ever you plug in a hose. Even though we have a water separator at the compressor. We us a toilet paper filter for painting. They are the best. New roll every paint job.

In the back ground you can see the toilet paper filter and the drop with drain on the other picture. The rust mark on the wall is from the drain. Copper and PVC are not safe. I have seen copper split but not near as dangerous as PVC.

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Oldmanmopar said:
Plastic air line pipe is the new way and safest. NO Copper or PVC. I ran 1/2 steel water pipe. 30 years ago still works great. 110 lbs in lines consistant. Remember always run up hill from the compressor so moisture drains back to the compressor. Put at least a 12 inch nipple under the fitting at the bottom of the drop and a drain at the bottom of nipple. We also have a automatic electric water drain in the tank that activates every hour to keep water out of the tank. we still get water at the drops and drain them when ever you plug in a hose. Even though we have a water separator at the compressor. We us a toilet paper filter for painting. They are the best. New roll every paint job.

In the back ground you can see the toilet paper filter and the drop with drain on the other picture. The rust mark on the wall is from the drain. Copper and PVC are not safe. I have seen copper split but not near as dangerous as PVC.

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\After being a plumber for way over 40 yrs, I have seen every type of pipe split except stain. steel .
RUSHING AIR THRU THE LINES 'WHILE IN USE" WILL TAKE WATER TO THE OUTLET IN SPITE OF WHAT ANGLE U RUN THE LINE AT !
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I have seen copper split but not near as dangerous as PVC.
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Sure copper can split, like anything can, but you're talking extreme pressures. 110 psi is nowhere near those pressures. Burst pressure is over 4700 psi, with a working pressure of at least 350(ish) to 1400(ish) depending on the type. Heck the stuff at home depot (L type) is rated for 1002 psi). What compressor do you use that can put that out? Only time I've seen copper split is from freezing in the winter (MinneSnowtan here), and that's obviously not catastrophic, it's just splits quietly and makes a mess when it thaws. Ask me how I know. :)

On the other hand, iron pipe, as you pointed out, rusts, and can push that rust into anything attached to it. You've take great precaution against that which is good, but that's an upside to copper, that doesn't happen. As that iron pipe rusts, it weakens. Again, a win for copper, no rust, ever.

Further, the operation working pressure of the rapid air system is only 200. So, Copper is way safer than the hybrids for now. Especially seeing how it's just aluminum wrapped in plastic. Now, if you're talking about "PEX", the good thing I like is it will "bubble" before it bursts, supposedly, but I can't imagine the time between bubble and burst is very long. At least a bursts might be like a balloon and lose kinetic energy faster than a chunk of iron or pvc, or even copper of you have that kind of pressure, flying across the room.

I'd hate to be around a system that can burst a copper line from air that is used for automotive work. There is something seriously jacked up about that system....

If I am wrong, I really would like to understand where the opinion on copper comes from. I learn new things all the time so please don't take this as some sort of grand challenge. I'd honestly like to know since I'm in the planning stages for mine and was going straight for copper. My compressor us an older 80 gallon IR 5hp unit.
 
Cuda416 said:
Sure copper can split, like anything can, but you're talking extreme pressures. 110 psi is nowhere near those pressures. Burst pressure is over 4700 psi, with a working pressure of at least 350(ish) to 1400(ish) depending on the type. Heck the stuff at home depot (L type) is rated for 1002 psi). What compressor do you use that can put that out? Only time I've seen copper split is from freezing in the winter (MinneSnowtan here), and that's obviously not catastrophic, it's just splits quietly and makes a mess when it thaws. Ask me how I know. :)

On the other hand, iron pipe, as you pointed out, rusts, and can push that rust into anything attached to it. You've take great precaution against that which is good, but that's an upside to copper, that doesn't happen. As that iron pipe rusts, it weakens. Again, a win for copper, no rust, ever.

Further, the operation working pressure of the rapid air system is only 200. So, Copper is way safer than the hybrids for now. Especially seeing how it's just aluminum wrapped in plastic. Now, if you're talking about "PEX", the good thing I like is it will "bubble" before it bursts, supposedly, but I can't imagine the time between bubble and burst is very long. At least a bursts might be like a balloon and lose kinetic energy faster than a chunk of iron or pvc, or even copper of you have that kind of pressure, flying across the room.

I'd hate to be around a system that can burst a copper line from air that is used for automotive work. There is something seriously jacked up about that system....

If I am wrong, I really would like to understand where the opinion on copper comes from. I learn new things all the time so please don't take this as some sort of grand challenge. I'd honestly like to know since I'm in the planning stages for mine and was going straight for copper. My compressor us an older 80 gallon IR 5hp unit.
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You are right about the copper and iron. I only ever saw one copper line split. Probably soft copper. My iron lines were installed over 30 years ago if you look at the picture you can see rust on the wall from the drain valve. But you should see the rust under the compressor tank from the auto drain valve. Pex would be a good choice and easy to run. When I did mine Iron was the way to go. Now they have special air compressor plastic lines, Northern industries sells rapid air in kits 3/4 inch that would be something to look at. Easy to install from what I was told.
 
Kind of off topic, but what size black pipe do most guys use? Would be maybe 60ft run, heaviest use would be 1/2” impact
 
Mattax said:
edit: Somehow I accidently revived a thread from May!
Sorry Bob and anyone else. We already covered this.


View attachment 1715391404
Landlord of my garage thought it was a good idea too. :eek:
This was the biggest chunk I picked up.
He got to pay to pull the dent out of the roof of my notchback.
Still pisses me off that I had to get the car fixed because he insisted on running air using pvc through my garage.
:mad:
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Like I said before , WRONG TYPE !
 
Backally said:
Kind of off topic, but what size black pipe do most guys use? Would be maybe 60ft run, heaviest use would be 1/2” impact
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I WOULD RUN 3/4 TO THE FIRST OPENING IN A SMALL GARAGE, 1/2" WOULD WORK THO-------dam I can miss that caps button !
 
Here’s my setup, 3/4” copper for about 80’. Being a plumber I would never use PVC, city only allows 5 psi testing on PVC so it would be very unsafe to have 100+ psi in the lines. Copper will outlast iron and not rust, its well worth the extra little bit to run it.

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I don't know what I am going to do honestly. I think most likely I will do what's cheapest and keep what I have. 50 feet of heavy duty air hose on a hose reel.
 
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