cone sure grip re build question

-
my68barracuda

my68barracuda

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
2,616
Reaction score
2,607
Location
Indianapolis IN
got this cone sure grip unit in a 8.75 A body assembly that I purchased.
The PO said he did not know much about it so I figured I would go through the cernter chunk to see what I got.

disassembled the sure grip
https://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@N02/sets/72157648849620302/

the ends that print into the outboard cups don't show contact, I checked the remaining clearance using clay. Did that first with just using hand pressure to push on the cones, loked like .020 to .025 remaining clearance.
Did it twice more,, fully assembling the unit and running in four of the assembly screws.
That shrunk the clearance to .010 to .016, basically really thin.

Think I read that .060 per side is a good starting place for clearance, is that right?
and for shims,, if I have .045 cut on each side, I would shim each side of the springs .045 or .090 total..

, there is some gauling on the back sides of the cones where they run on the center sput gears,, should be the third photo from the right..Any thoughs on that?

thanks
 
If you still have clearance, the cones have not yet bottomed out so just because you take some material off the face doesn't mean that you will end up having to shim that much. I usually don't shim them until the 2nd go around. Even with .010 to .016, it should still grab....but, if it were mine, I'd take off enough to get .035 clearance. The less you take off, the more material stays on the cone for lockup under power. I've never been able to find what the original thicknesses are on these but you also don't what your spiders and side gears to have full mesh with either because you could end up with a unit that's locked or worse, a cracked case however .025 on each side should be fine. The shims I've used are from Ford and run from .025 to .045 but have never had to use anything thicker than .030. Not sure if Ford still has these but the part # for the .025 is EOAZ-4A324-G, then H for .030, C for .035, D for .040 and F for .045.

As for the fretting between the side gear and the cone, I usually smooth the side gear out on a 10" grinding wheel that's laying flat on a bench. The metal builds up on the side gear from the cone and happens over time when the unit chatters. That's what is happening when you hear one of these thing make that chattering sound while turning. The cones are sticking and unsticking and makes these two parts play games with each other causing metal buildup.
 
much thanks,,

another quick question,, the center secionis a 742,, when looking very closly at the bearing races,,I see some very minor pitting-wear,, so I plan to go ahead and change all the bearings-races-seals,,

any recommended sources for re build parts?
OK to re uses the bolts?

thanks again.
 
Dr Diff (Cass) should be able to hook you up with all of your needs.

Just do a search for drdiff.com I think it is.
 
my68barracuda said:
much thanks,,

another quick question,, the center secionis a 742,, when looking very closly at the bearing races,,I see some very minor pitting-wear,, so I plan to go ahead and change all the bearings-races-seals,,

any recommended sources for re build parts?
OK to re uses the bolts?

thanks again.
Click to expand...
Since these were not intended by the factory to be rebuilt, they didn't allow any room for bearing pullers. I've had some luck using a clamshell but even that doesn't work sometimes and I end up cutting the cage off and then going after the inner race with an angle grinder. The bearings are standard size Timkens which are available from any bearing supply house and are usually cheaper than going to an auto parts store but getting them on line is good too or call Cass (Dr. Diff). Just write down the numbers of the bearing and race. I should have them around here someplace if you can't read them. I retired a few years ago and have been trying to concentrate on working on my own junk for a change so it's been awhile since doing one so I'm kinda out of the loop on prices and availability these days. And yes, it's ok to reuse the bearing cap bolts. Just inspect them and don't over torque them like any other bolt. IIRC, it's 80 lbs for them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top