Constant spark from coil

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ratty dart 340

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Hey there, I have made a few posts on here about my ignition wiring and all the problems I have had. I have made headway but today a new problem has arose. I was testing around trying to get the key to work. My problem used to be that I would only get spark when starter is engaged. Anyways… I have been fighting this for awhile with no solution.

Anyways, my problem today is this. With the coil disconnected, I go to start the car with the key, and I had a constant stream of spark. Usually it should be a few times a second, whereas this is maybe 10-15 sparks per second. We are skeptical of the ballast resistor and or the ecu.

Any help would be welcomed.
 
Pretty much the ecu I think. It might be that some odd wiring problem is causing it to start a feedback oscillation loop. You might try regrounding the box--scrape around the bolt holes underside of the box, and reinstall with star lock washers. Make certain there is a very good ground from either block to body or battery to body. "Work" the distributor and ECU connectors in/ out several times to scrub the terminals clean.

Doubtful the ballast could cause this.
 
The coil is disconnected & you are getting a stream of sparks???
By disconnected I mean I took off coil wire to distributor and placed tip near metal to test for spark. Then it proceeded to produce an endless stream of spark when cranking. Too much spark.

Should have been more clear.
 
By disconnected I mean I took off coil wire to distributor and placed tip near metal to test for spark. Then it proceeded to produce an endless stream of spark when cranking. Too much spark.

Should have been more clear.
The coil fires 8 times every 2 engine revolutions. If the engine cranks fairly fast of course it will have a fairly constant spark output. Plug the coil wire back in and chec for spark at on cylinder. You will get one spark every 2 revolutions.
 
Disagree. You can easily see the individual sparks at each point as the engine is cranked. Steady pulses, but certainly not a "steady spark." Maybe we need more clarification
 
Disagree. You can easily see the individual sparks at each point as the engine is cranked. Steady pulses, but certainly not a "steady spark." Maybe we need more clarification
I used the term "fairly constant" depending on how fast the engine cranks. Of course there will be a break in the spark after the coil discharges.
 
Well gas in the bowls would also help… the coil issue is fixed. Still working on the key issue. Picking up new ballast today. Going to push button start soon anyways.
 
Well gas in the bowls would also help… the coil issue is fixed. Still working on the key issue. Picking up new ballast today. Going to push button start soon anyways.
This entire post makes absolutely no sense.

Why would gas in the bowls have anything to do with an ignition question?

How is it fixed?

If it is fixed why do you need a ballast, and if you had spark why do you need a ballast?

And last why are you "going" to push button start?

(Hint?) Do you know how a Mopar keyswitch works?

(Hint for the hint:) It has to do with the ballast....................
 
The car wasn’t starting because there was no gas.. so my post about the coil was resolved. I tested spark at the plug, and it was the correct timing between sparks for when it fires. But wasn’t starting because no gas. So that issue is resolved.

They ignition switch/ key issue is the one that I have been working on for awhile now. You helped me on a different forum regarding that. As far as this thread goes, the issue is fixed. I’m still working on the other issue on the other forum.

And I am getting a new ballast because that is a very common problem when the car starts, but when you it returns to the run position, the spark goes away.

And I wanted a push button start from the get go. I just wanted to get the key working before that.
 
I had a similar problem with a Aftermarket Chrysler Control Module.
Grounding the box to the engine block fixed my problem.
 
The car wasn’t starting because there was no gas.. so my post about the coil was resolved. I tested spark at the plug, and it was the correct timing between sparks for when it fires. But wasn’t starting because no gas. So that issue is resolved.

They ignition switch/ key issue is the one that I have been working on for awhile now. You helped me on a different forum regarding that. As far as this thread goes, the issue is fixed. I’m still working on the other issue on the other forum.

And I am getting a new ballast because that is a very common problem when the car starts, but when you it returns to the run position, the spark goes away.

And I wanted a push button start from the get go. I just wanted to get the key working before that.
I repeat the question. DO YOU KNOW how a Mopar ignition switch works? HOW are you planning to work around that with a "push button start" and WHY
 
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