Convert standard manual valve body to reverse - what is needed?

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cudajames

cudajames

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Looking for insight on what I should expect converting the standard manual valve body to a reverse manual valve body on my 904?

The transmission and converter were built by Dynamic a little over 2 years ago. Everything is running fine. I just really do not like upshifting toward drive. I’ve missed a time or two in spirited driving.


To convert from standard to reverse do I have to replace the entire assembly?

If I need to replace the entire assembly, should I go with something from Hughes or TCI or other?

Thank you for the knowledge as I start to dig into this project
 
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I would buy a reverse manual valve body....

I would look at Turbo Action or maybe Cope Racing Trans.....
 
i have a 904 with a Turbo Action rmsvb it works awesome but it does not have low band apply but i think John Cope just came out with a low band apply rmsvb i understand it makes a stronger transmission , it maybe worth looking into .
 
Eliminating the band apply in manual first generally creates a quicker car because it eliminates 1-2 shift overlap. I like to set stockers up to race in D or 2 so the 1-2 shift is cleaner. Set up the trans for the 1-2 in D the way you like it, then do the 2-3 manually.
 
A&A transmission reverse manual valve body with 4.2 lever bolt in sprag and billet servo. Awesome combination. Extremely firm positive shifts.
You just gotta be real careful not to shift back into 1st until you pretty much have come to a stop.
 
Thank you for the help, I will be pulling the trigger on either the CRT reverse manual valve body (with low band) and servos or go with the A&A Transmission same combo.
I heard that CRT copies A&A

I also will be taking the opportunity to upgrade my pan to probably the summit deep pan. Black Friday pricing
 
I was mistaken, I have a COPE rmvb with low band apply. Great valve body. Works much better than the old Cheetahs I ran in the past.
 
I have a Cope RMVB in my street driven dart. I absolutely love it. Im using the factory console shifter with the Cope "shift R gate". Or whatever its called. It all works pretty well.
 
I am toward the COPE rmvb w/low band with the servo kit. There are two options; the street-2x which is rated at 140psi (https://www.coperacingtrans.com/?product=crt-727-904-pro-street-reverse-manual-valve-body) and the race-22x which is rated at 155psi (https://www.coperacingtrans.com/?product=crt-727-904-race-reverse-manual-valve-body). I didn't see a psi rating on any other mvb.

I assume the race-22x has crisper shifting that puts more wear on the transmission? And the street doesn't put as much wear? Am I understanding this correctly

My car will spending 99% of street
 
33IMP said:
what shifter are you using
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A 1966 factory column shifter - probably why I really disliked the standard manual valve body

IMG_3873.jpg
 
cudajames said:
A 1966 factory column shifter - probably why I really disliked the standard manual valve body

View attachment 1715637019
Click to expand...
Im using the factory column shifter with my rmvb in my 69 runner. The detents have been modified, tap the shifter down from first (previously drive) for 1-2 change, then tug towards you, and down for 2-3.
I love the way mine works, even if you pull on the first shift, it only goes into third.
 
I use my factory console in the 73 dart sport. Works great with reverse manual. I wouldnt use it with a forward manual, too risky.
As far as the PSI, email cope and ask them. I just got the street version and im really happy with it. Anytime you get firmer positive shifts it will cut down on trans wear because there is less clutch slippage. Might be harder on U-Joints though :) She chirps second gear everytime, I love it.
 
All that's covered in the MP books, but there's no way to make it a front band apply if you want that from what I remember. I would just get an aftermarket valve body like I wanted it. John Cope can help you.
 
Got a TA cheetah valve body in one car that I bought back in 1983....still can chirp second gear....Mine has no low band apply in 1st.....No problem...

Dont like the down shift braking in 1st gear.
 
After talking with John at CRT, I went with the race version - which he recommended based on my setup. I also ordered the thicker band strut, 4.2 lever and of course the servo kit. And from summit a new deep pan - with drain plug. Black Friday all about the transmission
 
The biggest drawback to the cheetah is it does not have low band apply. I had a sprag blow on me last year which is why I went this route. Amazingly my numbers matching 727 case survived the sprag failure. When it went it was very violent. Just glad I have skinny tires on that car or things could have been a little different.
 
cudajames said:
After talking with John at CRT, I went with the race version - which he recommended based on my setup. I also ordered the thicker band strut, 4.2 lever and of course the servo kit. And from summit a new deep pan - with drain plug. Black Friday all about the transmission
Click to expand...
Can I ask what your car specs are that John suggested the 22x?
I'm currently looking at the 2x and 22x but not sure what to pick.
Car is a Aussie version of a 69 dodge dart with a turbo 318 making around 600hp at the crank. It's a 98% street car that will see the strip only a couple of times.

20210121_202417.jpg
 
VF69HARDTOP said:
Can I ask what your car specs are that John suggested the 22x?
I'm currently looking at the 2x and 22x but not sure what to pick.
Car is a Aussie version of a 69 dodge dart with a turbo 318 making around 600hp at the crank. It's a 98% street car that will see the strip only a couple of times.

View attachment 1716105344
Click to expand...
Very nice car, love the green. You have a lot more power than I am running. Mine is a 408 stocker around 470hp at the crank. You should call John and chat with him to get the proper parts
 
Expensive phone call, maybe. Probably worth it to get the right parts the first time. One way to aussie land not cheap. Three trips?
 
cudajames said:
Very nice car, love the green. You have a lot more power than I am running. Mine is a 408 stocker around 470hp at the crank. You should call John and chat with him to get the proper parts
Click to expand...
Out of interest, did you have the accumulator added back to the valve body to soften the shifts a little?
 
I did not. Under hard acceleration, you could feel/hear the shift to 2nd which isn't too bad and smooth into drive(3rd)

Dynamic converter built my 904 with a manual valve body and my converter. My car is a column shift and the shift pattern sucked. Probably my fault on ordering. Dynamic built a great transmission and converter. I changed to reverse manual with CRT and am super happy.

Now I just need to get around to changing to a floor shift with a manual steering column for better header clearance
 
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