"Converter change" how much improvement...

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JoeDust451

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have some of you noticed over a stock unit, i'm getting ready to order a PTC 11" that'll flash around 27-2800, i'm also thinking for the added strength of going with the 7/16 bolts, just wondering if i'll really feel the difference alot from a stock converter, here is my combo again.

71 dart.
360 magnum, RHS heads, stock bottom end.
roller-.477/.477-.216/.218 dur. @ 50 on a 112 with 1.6 rockers
headers, RPM intake, 750 3310
stock 904, stock converter.
3.73 gears, 255/60/15" MT DRs.
 
Depends what converter you changing from. If your going from a stockish to one correct for your combo then you can see a huge improovement.
 
Yeah, i'm going from a stock converter, i will say that it'll fry these DRs now with little to no effert lol.
 
If you have good tires, you'll notice how much faster you jump across the intersection and leave the other guy behind.

I wouldn't worry about bigger bolts with that lil stall, just get some good arp bolts or new grade 8.
 
If you have good tires, you'll notice how much faster you jump across the intersection and leave the other guy behind.

I wouldn't worry about bigger bolts with that lil stall, just get some good arp bolts or new grade 8.

Not that it'll happen soon, but i may spray it with 100 shot, i need new bolts anyways, & PTC said it'll cost an additional 20.00 to drill for the larger bolts, so in a nut shell, i'll only be out 20.00 plus the labor of opening up the 4 holes on the flexplate, would you say thats worth the added insurance? All there converters now come with "baloon plates" for nitrous, so i'm good there.

I have noticed this cam comes on strong around 2K or there abouts, i've also noticed at a small roll when the tires let loose it feels much better then if they grap, but it'll still leave nice tire marks from 15-20 mph when i really get into it.
 
yeah go ahead, why not.

I usually do that beyond 3200+stall or big blocks.

say.. what size are your u joint bolts? or clutch bolts, bell housing bolts etc...

but it won't hurt anything.
 
yeah go ahead, why not.

I usually do that beyond 3200+stall or big blocks.

say.. what size are your u joint bolts? or clutch bolts, bell housing bolts etc...

but it won't hurt anything.

I ordered it.

I have the small u joints, i'll be installing the "brute force" joints shortly, also going to install SFCs @ a loop.

The bell houseing bolts are stock, i've never had issues in this area, i do still have the factory torque bars from the 318 that connected from the trans too the engine, but i don't know yet if they will fit the Magnum block.
 
I ordered it.

I have the small u joints, i'll be installing the "brute force" joints shortly, also going to install SFCs @ a loop.

The bell houseing bolts are stock, i've never had issues in this area, i do still have the factory torque bars from the 318 that connected from the trans too the engine, but i don't know yet if they will fit the Magnum block.

torque bars I never run.

my point was you wouldn't have broken the convertor bolt, no big. enjoy!
 
I went from a Mopar perf. converter that stalled about 2200 to a PTC 11" that stalls 3000 and it made a huge difference. In fact it roasted the tires so bad after I put in the PTC I had to get drag radials. With the MP converter it ran 14.30's. With the PTC it runs 13.50's. The drop in e.t's was mostly from the converter because it never spun hardly at all with the MP converter and stock radials so it wasn't the drag radials that dropped the times that much.
 
I went from a Mopar perf. converter that stalled about 2200 to a PTC 11" that stalls 3000 and it made a huge difference. In fact it roasted the tires so bad after I put in the PTC I had to get drag radials. With the MP converter it ran 14.30's. With the PTC it runs 13.50's. The drop in e.t's was mostly from the converter because it never spun hardly at all with the MP converter and stock radials so it wasn't the drag radials that dropped the times that much.

Fish, thats good to hear, if you noticed that much of an improvement from a 2200 too a 3000, i can only amagin how much difference i'll see going from a stock unit, you say you needed DRs after the converter install, well i'm roasting these MT DRs with a stock converter lol, i have the pressure at 20, every time i get on it hard from a roll it leaves nice marks, so this magnums makeing power somewhere :-D.
 
Fish, thats good to hear, if you noticed that much of an improvement from a 2200 too a 3000, i can only amagin how much difference i'll see going from a stock unit, you say you needed DRs after the converter install, well i'm roasting these MT DRs with a stock converter lol, i have the pressure at 20, every time i get on it hard from a roll it leaves nice marks, so this magnums makeing power somewhere :-D.

I don't doubt yours is real torquey with that cam and those heads. Mine has a bigger cam (Lunati 234/242 @.050) and less efficient chambers (X heads) so it's probably not as torquey as yours but it sure does come on good at 3k. You might try more air in the tires just to see what happens. Mine hooks best at 30 lbs. With 20 they spin some. I know with slicks you don't run much air but from my limited experience with drag radials it seems they require closer to 30 to work the best. My car is kinda heavy (3620 with me and a 1/2 tank of gas) so maybe that's why it takes more air in the tires to make them lay flat. With 20 lbs., from the prints it leaves it looks like they cup up in the middle.
 
I don't doubt yours is real torquey with that cam and those heads. Mine has a bigger cam (Lunati 234/242 @.050) and less efficient chambers (X heads) so it's probably not as torquey as yours but it sure does come on good at 3k. You might try more air in the tires just to see what happens. Mine hooks best at 30 lbs. With 20 they spin some. I know with slicks you don't run much air but from my limited experience with drag radials it seems they require closer to 30 to work the best. My car is kinda heavy (3620 with me and a 1/2 tank of gas) so maybe that's why it takes more air in the tires to make them lay flat. With 20 lbs., from the prints it leaves it looks like they cup up in the middle.

Ok i'll try more air, i can see why your car needed more stall, i hope mine reacts as good as yours did, i don't know what mine weighs, i'm guessing around 31xx without me & i don't weigh much.

How is your rear suspention set up? whats springs/shocks are you useing?
 
Mopar XHD springs and CE adjustable shocks all the way around with the adjustments on 50/50. I put the shocks on before I bought the drag radials intending to play with them to see if 70/30 and 90/10 would hook better but never had a chance to play with the adjustments before I got a deal on the drag radials that I couldn't pass up. Once I put them on it hooks real hard as long as I warm them up a little.
 
I have noticed this cam comes on strong around 2K or there abouts,

Then would a 27-2800 stall be a bit on the high side.

If you're already making good usable torque at 2000, you'll likely be wasting some of that with a higher stall. That cam has small @ .050 numbers. I personally wouldn't go higher than a 2500. But thats just my opinion.
 
Then would a 27-2800 stall be a bit on the high side.

If you're already making good usable torque at 2000, you'll likely be wasting some of that with a higher stall. That cam has small @ .050 numbers. I personally wouldn't go higher than a 2500. But thats just my opinion.

I'm sure it'll be fine, i talked it over with Tim at PTC, if there would have been an issue, i'm sure he would have said so, i've run this converter from them in the past & it almost acts stock untill you hammer on it, so there very efficient, others have run the MP & Hughes 2500 11" on mild combo's & wish they've gone more, i ran there 9.5" with a 4400 flash behind my 451 & that unit was very streetable, i could have gone with alittle more stall & that 451 had most all its power "on" at 3500 rpm. Thats the nice thing about haveing an efficient converter.
 
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