Copper Gaskets

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Bryan R Erickson

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Has anyone here have some insight with the copper gaskets? I'm planning on running boost to my 67 225, maybe about 5-8psi. I've heard the copper gasket is the way to go using boost. But I recently had something brought to my attention about using the copper gasket. O-rings and reviever grooves. I'm assuming the o-rings would be steel and the reviever grooves would have to be machined in the head or deck? Does any one here have experienced information on this?
 
Yup. You must run o-rings in the block or head with copper gaskets. There are plenty of conventional head gaskets that will work.
 
i agree with RRR here. that's not a whole bunch of extra atmospheres and a good conventional gasket will likely live in the application just fine.

i'd contact cometic and see what they recommend.
 
As long as you have your tune-up right, and don't get into detonation, you should be able to run a stock steel gasket or a FelPro, at those boost levels.
 
Charrlie_S said:
As long as you have your tune-up right, and don't get into detonation, you should be able to run a stock steel gasket or a FelPro, at those boost levels.
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I honestly have had bad luck with the FelPro gaskets. My engine is bored .030 over and it seems to keep blowing out those gaskets every so often. Thus another reason why I decided copper. Is there another brand that makes a conventional gasket for the /6?
 
There are many brands of slant six gaskets (or at least there used to be). When I did my first turbo slant, I was having problems with detonation (unbeknownst to me) and blowing gaskets. So I opted to go with "O" rings and copper gaskets. Big mistake. The gaskets blowing were like a fuse blowing. It was protecting other parts. After the "O" rings I started breaking rings, hurting pistons, etc (FROM DETONATION). But I didn't blow any more gaskets. I know several turbo slants that are not running copper gaskets, and not having problems. I still have my "O" ringed and copper gasketed engine, but not having those problems since I finally realized my problem. Copper gaskets on a street type car CAN be a pain in the butt.
PS: The main reason for my early problems. Could not hear the detonation due to the exhaust and turbo noise, Lack of the availability of a "boost timing master", and/or a wide band O2 sensor. All I had was a EGT from an airplane.
PPS: I was running around 10-12 lbs boost.
 
Charrlie_S said:
There are many brands of slant six gaskets (or at least there used to be). When I did my first turbo slant, I was having problems with detonation (unbeknownst to me) and blowing gaskets. So I opted to go with "O" rings and copper gaskets. Big mistake. The gaskets blowing were like a fuse blowing. It was protecting other parts. After the "O" rings I started breaking rings, hurting pistons, etc (FROM DETONATION). But I didn't blow any more gaskets. I know several turbo slants that are not running copper gaskets, and not having problems. I still have my "O" ringed and copper gasketed engine, but not having those problems since I finally realized my problem. Copper gaskets on a street type car CAN be a pain in the butt.
PS: The main reason for my early problems. Could not hear the detonation due to the exhaust and turbo noise, Lack of the availability of a "boost timing master", and/or a wide band O2 sensor. All I had was a EGT from an airplane.
PPS: I was running around 10-12 lbs boost.
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I don't think I'm getting detonation, after the FelPros I put a Mahle gasket in there and it didn't blow out again but again that's with out the boost. I figured because it is .030 over it wasn't sealing on the stock sized gasket gasket ring enough due to the small amount of metal on the ring. I defintely don't hear any pinging or such going down the road.
 
You’re blowing head gaskets on a naturally aspirated slant 6 and you think the solution is boost and copper head gaskets? You should probably dial in your tuning skill on the NA engine before diving in to the world of boost. Sorry if it sounds like I’m being an ***, but little problems become BIG problems when boost is involved. As for a gasket recommendation, copper with o rings and receiver grooves become necessary around 30psi. You don’t need more than a good cometic MLS gasket and head studs for around 8psi.
 
TT5.9mag said:
You’re blowing head gaskets on a naturally aspirated slant 6 and you think the solution is boost and copper head gaskets? You should probably dial in your tuning skill on the NA engine before diving in to the world of boost. Sorry if it sounds like I’m being an ***, but little problems become BIG problems when boost is involved. As for a gasket recommendation, copper with o rings and receiver grooves become necessary around 30psi. You don’t need more than a good cometic MLS gasket and head studs for around 8psi.
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The FelPros are some of the best gaskets you can get for N/A or light boost. If he's blowing those, something is wrong. I don't think Cometic gaskets or studs are necessary at 10PSI and under. NIce to have, of course, because we all know "you'll want more". lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
The FelPros are some of the best gaskets you can get for N/A or light boost. If he's blowing those, something is wrong. I don't think Cometic gaskets or studs are necessary at 10PSI and under. NIce to have, of course, because we all know "you'll want more". lol
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I disagree. The slant only has 4 head bolts/cylinder and they’re only 7/16”. It’s actually hard to keep gaskets in a boosted slant, even at 5-8psi. I have a lot of experience with engines in positive pressure (although never done a slant) and I would not build one for boost without mls gaskets and studs.
 
TT5.9mag said:
I disagree. The slant only has 4 head bolts/cylinder and they’re only 7/16”. It’s actually hard to keep gaskets in a boosted slant, even at 5-8psi. I have a lot of experience with engines in positive pressure (although never done a slant) and I would not build one for boost without mls gaskets and studs.
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I wonder what all @Charrlie_S has used on his in the past?
 
TT5.9mag said:
You’re blowing head gaskets on a naturally aspirated slant 6 and you think the solution is boost and copper head gaskets? You should probably dial in your tuning skill on the NA engine before diving in to the world of boost. Sorry if it sounds like I’m being an ***, but little problems become BIG problems when boost is involved. As for a gasket recommendation, copper with o rings and receiver grooves become necessary around 30psi. You don’t need more than a good cometic MLS gasket and head studs for around 8psi.
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I guess you didn't read the whole last comment. I last put a Mahle head gasket on and never had aproblem with it again. I guess I should of mentioned that this was also 5 years ago.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wonder what all @Charrlie_S has used on his in the past?
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See post #7
Nitrous is almost as hard on head gaskets as boost. I have been running N2O for the last several years. Approx 10-1 CR and 150-200 HP shot on a 170 CID slant. Stock OEM head gasket, and head bolts. I do put hardened washers under the bolts, and torque about 5-10 LBS over stock. Never blown a head gasket. Main thing is to get the head and deck surface flat, and the proper finish.
 
Bryan R Erickson said:
I guess you didn't read the whole last comment. I last put a Mahle head gasket on and never had aproblem with it again. I guess I should have mentioned that this was also 5 years ago.
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Sorry if I missed that part. Again I’m not trying to be an ***. But with boost (or nitrous as Charlie pointed out) you better have your poop in a group or **** goes bad.
 
Charrlie_S said:
See post #7
Nitrous is almost as hard on head gaskets as boost. I have been running N2O for the last several years. Approx 10-1 CR and 150-200 HP shot on a 170 CID slant. Stock OEM head gasket, and head bolts. I do put hardened washers under the bolts, and torque about 5-10 LBS over stock. Never blown a head gasket. Main thing is to get the head and deck surface flat, and the proper finish.
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Nitrous can be harder or softer on the engine depending on when it’s activated and how much is activated. If you hit the button after peak torque you can make a nitrous deal live a long time. The head and deck being flat is super important, I agree, but also the timing curve.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Nitrous can be harder or softer on the engine depending on when it’s activated and how much is activated. If you hit the button after peak torque you can make a nitrous deal live a long time. The head and deck being flat is super important, I agree, but also the timing curve.
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I'm on the Nitrous right at the start and the whole quarter mile. Car weight was 3250 lbs 170 Cid. 1.76 60 ft time and 368 ft/lbs torque at 2800 rpm. timing is fixed at 18* btdc.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Sorry if I missed that part. Again I’m not trying to be an ***. But with boost (or nitrous as Charlie pointed out) you better have your poop in a group or **** goes bad.
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I understand. I do plan on pulling the motor back out and just going through it again. I have to re-ring it anyways for boost. I know for sure my deck and head surfaces are flat. I had them take some off the deck when I first built it 6 years ago. If it's not worth the money and time to do the copper gasket then I won't. I like the Mahle gasket but I've been looking for other band and quite honestly, can't find anything but FelPro and Mahle.
 
Im running the felpro at well over 17psi. the block was decked and the head surfaced as well.
I do have ARP studs in mine. I ran it because I use the Felpro's in my big blocks without issue.
they do have a lot more bolts as others have pointed out.
 
Bryan R Erickson said:
I understand. I do plan on pulling the motor back out and just going through it again. I have to re-ring it anyways for boost. I know for sure my deck and head surfaces are flat. I had them take some off the deck when I first built it 6 years ago. If it's not worth the money and time to do the copper gasket then I won't. I like the Mahle gasket but I've been looking for other band and quite honestly, can't find anything but FelPro and Mahle.
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Too many questions/blanks to fill in, but what are the specs on the mill as is,....CR, head/block milling, cam, Int./Exh.....?
 
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