We always do that! They’re startin’ not to believe us!Blame it on me.
We always do that! They’re startin’ not to believe us!Blame it on me.
The difference is the copper will weigh more/have more rows to cool the same as aluminum. I would never buy into the triple pass stuff, the longer the water sits in the radiator the longer it sits in the block, at low rpm that is a no go.My take on all this is that a properly designed and constructed copper radiator will put cool an aluminum equivalent. Same should also apply to intercoolers as well.
Obviously if it's built or designed poorly it's not gonna work well. But given an otherwise equivalent aluminum or copper unit the copper one will have a substantial amount of extra thermal capacity.
I used them a few times in the past but the last time I called them to build me one for my duster I left it up to them to build me the best radiator for my setup. That's how I wound up with a triple pass desert cooler deal and had overheating issues at idle/slow cruise. I talked to the local radiator shop that used to do my recores (before the price of copper went through the roof) and they agreed it was a poor design. I bought a 3 core champion off ebay to see what difference it would make and problem solved, didn't have to change anything else.My plan is to talk with US Radiator, tell them my application and see what they recommend. It's gonna be around 1K no matter which way I go anyway. lol
On a carbureted gas truck? I think it would be very little return for the investment.That's a good plan. Curious what they come back with.
I wonder if, with an intercooler, if you would see a better temperature drop and therefore power...
Yeah, I plan on making it clear I don't want any double or triple pass voodoo. That's marketing hype, IMO.I used them a few times in the past but the last time I called them to build me one for my duster I left it up to them to build me the best radiator for my setup. That's how I wound up with a triple pass desert cooler deal and had overheating issues at idle/slow cruise. I talked to the local radiator shop that used to do my recores (before the price of copper went through the roof) and they agreed it was a poor design. I bought a 3 core champion off ebay to see what difference it would make and problem solved, didn't have to change anything else.
I think maybe you meant to post this.Very good reasons NOT to use double/triple pass rads here: www.stewartcomponents.com
Sorry this theory about "water going too fast" or "too slow" through the rad is bullshit.My experience is years ago I paid good money for a "super desert special deluxe lol" custom copper radiator from a big source like mentioned above and it sucked for cooling at idle. I replaced it with a cheap champion off ebay and changed nothing else, problem solved, we figured the water was spending too much time in the radiator. Now we have several cold case radiators with the 1.25 tubes and all have been stellar so far on the street, three are 500+hp stroker small blocks. I will also add we all run flowkooler water pumps, high flow t-stats and adequate fan setups whether electric or mechanical.
So your saying that forcing coolant to pass through a radiator multiple times isn't leaving the coolant in the block longer to build more heat?. Seems to me like that could be considered "moving too slow" in laymans terms. The triple pass radiator was a big restriction to overcome and I was using a flowkooler pump so no it was not a pump issue, maybe you misunderstood what I was saying.Sorry this theory about "water going too fast" or "too slow" through the rad is bullshit.
If it was going too slow, it was a bad water pump, restriction, or slipping belt.
you can't drive it too fast so far as the rad itself, although a rad company (DO NOT ask me which) posted up they claim that too much pump can cause sort of turbulance in the block which degrades heat exchange. This gets to the old tale about needing a restrictor.
I will tell you THIS. OldManMopar posted that he thinks that some old rads can crack the tubes loose from the fins for various reasons. That seems to be EXACTLY what happened to my original 67 rad.
I have no idea what "they" did with modern rads, but the last gas 3/4T 5.9 V8, the old Dakota 5.2 I still have, and the 01 Diesel I still have---ALL are/ were run with NO pressure in the rad because the heater cores all leaked. They work just fine. NObody was more amazed than I
I read it. I don't disagree with it.RRR,
Post #32. No it wasn't that particular section you quoted, but further on they say that a DP rad requires 16X pressure to function, even more pressure for a triple pass.
Exactly this, actually. Read on.There's more to heat transfer than just the conductivity of the material. With a vehicle radiator there's the heat exchange of the fluid to the tubes, and then the conduction of the heat through the tubes and the finsm and finally the heat exhange with air. The last is largely convective and will involve both the tubes and the fins. I remember being surprised in one class excersize that the fins can be designed so that they will make the heat exchange worse! IIRC that was a passive convection excersize. My point is only that aluminum's disadvantages can be largely overcome in this particular regard. That doesn't make the observation of the differences in coduction any less interesting - its certainly an important factor
Use an infrared camera, not a thermometer. I have one on my phone because I literally pay my mortgage by building large scale heat exchangers. It's a game changer when it comes to understanding these things.Get an infrared thermometer, I used it on my engine block and my radiators. The one with the high-efficiency radiator proved to be the coolest.
These cars weren’t designed to run too cool.
Heck the other day I couldn't convince a guy to take the cap off (cold) and see if the pump was working....It's funny you can advise these cats to get simple tools like the hand held temp gun (under 20 bucks) but most of them turn a deaf ear and just stumble on in the dark. I've gotten to the point where I just let them.
Yeah, I mean the good God knows none of us is right about everything....in fact, I admit I'm wrong about probably much more than I am right, but here we are usually on the other side of the country, ONLINE trying to help people who give little to no information and THEN refuse the good advice they're given. It's like on a recent slant 6 carburetor thread. I made a recommendation based on SOLID recent experience. ....and it's not about being right, or an individual doing what I, you or anyone else recommends. I couldn't care less whether they choose my recommendation or not. But they could at least act like they appreciate it. It's like Del says all the time. Nobody gets paid around here. lol I'm to the point now where if someone wants my advice anymore, they can PM me, call or come by.Heck the other day I couldn't convince a guy to take the cap off (cold) and see if the pump was working....
No, it didn’t. Most time people fat finger it.I disagree with your premise. I thought the red X explained that.
No, it didn’t. Most time people fat finger it.
No, it didn’t. Most time people fat finger it.
I know you’re the new red X guy. Usually men real men like to explain the red X.Cry much? Giving me a bunch of red X’s just because I disagree with you shows a serious issue with your maturity level.
I disagree with your premise. I thought you understood that and what the red X stood for.Cry much? Giving me a bunch of red X’s just because I disagree with you shows a serious issue with your maturity level.