Correct driveshaft length big block a body?

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LovetheA's

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I have another question for the gurus. I had asked a question before about the bad wheel hop in my 67 gts 4 speed. I had to have the driveshaft replaced after a mishap and the mechanic was incompetant to say the least. If the drive shaft wasn't a correct replacement could that offset the pinion angle and cause the wheel hop? What is the correct drive shaft length and what are the measuring points?

P.S. I recently purchased the MOPAR chassis and suspension book ninth edition. That book is a wealth of info. Thanks for the heads up.

Carl
 
wheel hop....what shocks do you have?

usually need long shocks ...if they top out..they unload rear..and wheel hop occurs...

as far as Driveshaft....wheel base, transmission and rear end are going to determine length of shaft.....BB or SM...trans mounts are the same...and trans length are the same.
 
I have kyb shocks all the way around and the factory 6 leaf set up for big block a body. I think I ordered the springs from PST or Springs and things can't remember have to look. Car is big block 383 4 speed.

Carl
 
The rear is an 8 3/4 3:55 posi with the factory pinion snubber. I had an aftermarket one installed but took it off because it knocked the underbody all the time when I was driving around. I had the aftermarket snubber adjusted to about an inch below the underside of the car. I realize that the factory snubber is much shorter and smaller.

Carl
 
The rear is an 8 3/4 3:55 posi with the factory pinion snubber. I had an aftermarket one installed but took it off because it knocked the underbody all the time when I was driving around. I had the aftermarket snubber adjusted to about an inch below the underside of the car. I realize that the factory snubber is much shorter and smaller.

Carl

the reason it wsa knocking the floor was because the axle was wrapping up...

it was doing its job...
 
Should I put the aftermarket snubber back on and adjust it right up to the underside of the car so it is always touching? Are there changes that could be made so that I don't need the aftermarket snubber? E.g. correct pinion angle, leaf spring set up etc?
 
Should I put the aftermarket snubber back on and adjust it right up to the underside of the car so it is always touching? Are there changes that could be made so that I don't need the aftermarket snubber? E.g. correct pinion angle, leaf spring set up etc?

when you said it was hitting all the time like when going over bumps or just driving around?

i havnt got to play with mine yet but i think you set them 3/4" to 1 inch down...
 
My book lists them at 51" long which is measured from center to center of the u-joints.
 
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