Correct Oil to Use

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brodphish

brodphish

FABO Gold Member
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This might seem like a strange question but I am uncertain of the best oil to use in my professionally built small block. It's a 340 punched out to 417, balanced and blueprinted. Although I use the car as many weekends as I can (local cars shows), it only have 2500 miles on it in those fives years. THE oil has been changed three or four times, only once by me. I was going to use Mobil 1 10w-40 but the shop did not carry it (They has Mobil 1 5-30 for my turbocharged inline six?). In fact they only synthetic 10w-40 they had was Valvoline High Mileage Formula. The guy behind the counter said that was a good choice - it seemed like he was experienced and informed. So it's in the garage as a weekend project - but before I make the change - why not ask the experts? Maybe just use dino oil?

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Mobil 1 is my personal fav, there are other good synthetics out there but it seems that Mobil 1 is the most popular thus easier to find should you be away from home base and need a quart. Only trouble I ever had with synthetic is that it loves to find a place to leak out of and usually uses a quart between oil changes, no biggie for the advantage gained. Walmarts are the cheapest usually if bought in the 5 quart jug, $24 or less.
 
This is like asking...what do you like in a women? (or man for our female members)!!:D Everyone has their favorite.

I use Valvoline VR1 - 20W50. The high Zinc level helps me sleep better at night!
 
brodphish said:
This might seem like a strange question but I am uncertain of the best oil to use in my professionally built small block. It's a 340 punched out to 417, balanced and blueprinted. Although I use the car as many weekends as I can (local cars shows), it only have 2500 miles on it in those fives years. THE oil has been changed three or four times, only once by me. I was going to use Mobil 1 10w-40 but the shop did not carry it (They has Mobil 1 5-30 for my turbocharged inline six?). In fact they only synthetic 10w-40 they had was Valvoline High Mileage Formula. The guy behind the counter said that was a good choice - it seemed like he was experienced and informed. So it's in the garage as a weekend project - but before I make the change - why not ask the experts? Maybe just use dino oil?

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It was a good choice because he had it on the shelf.

Stay away from high mileage engine oils. They use additives to swell up seals and they change the detergent package. Find a better shop. Spend more time researching oils.
 
66fyssh said:
This is like asking...what do you like in a women? (or man for our female members)!!:D Everyone has their favorite.

I use Valvoline VR1 - 20W50. The high Zinc level helps me sleep better at night!
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Zinc is good. But is kills power. There is more to high performance oils than zinc.
 
I remember the very "spirited" discussion a while ago on engine oil.:)

I didn't get into the discussion and just wanted to point out here that there are many different engine oils that people use to keep our engines going. I'm not racing my car so I'm OK with VR1.
 
I would suggest using the Mobil One (or other high quality synth oil) along with a large filter of high quality.

I would not use Dino oil. From break in purposes there is Brad Penn and other excellent break in oils that can be used on a constant basis if you want to do so.

A heavy 20/50 is not needed in most cases. A 10/30 should be just fine.
 
Tried calling the engine builder and asking? As a general rule 10w30 is a safe bet. But call him and see what he recommends.
 
I just went through the same research and decision process, granted on a slightly modified 318, but I ended up settling on the Valvoline VR1 10W-30. The motor likes it just fine, still plenty pressure at hot idle, and no leaks. Plus, the zinc the flat tappet cam needs is there.
 
Steve69Fish said:
I just went through the same research and decision process, granted on a slightly modified 318, but I ended up settling on the Valvoline VR1 10W-30. The motor likes it just fine, still plenty pressure at hot idle, and no leaks. Plus, the zinc the flat tappet cam needs is there.
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Same here, have mild build 318, use Valvoline VR1 10-30. Recommended by engine builder, covers all your needs with zinc for flat tappets.
 
Thanks to all who provided me information. It was all very useful and informative. This time I decided to use Mobil 1 as it was readily available. If it's good enough for my turbo that I believe tops out around 400,000 rpm then it should hold my small block together until I can become more informed. The import tuners all swear by Mobil 1.

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brodphish said:
Thanks to all who provided me information. It was all very useful and informative. This time I decided to use Mobil 1 as it was readily available. If it's good enough for my turbo that I believe tops out around 400,000 rpm then it should hold my small block together until I can become more informed. The import tuners all swear by Mobil 1.

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Be very careful following the daisy chain. That's the chain that happens when everybody does what everybody else does, because they all asked each other.

Mobil 1 is good oil. In fact, the majority of oils made today, we're done from technology that Mobil and Stauffer chemical developed. It's cheape to buy their base technology than to do all that R&D on your own dime.
 
One last thing - thanks 67fish for the Wal-Mart tip. Returned the oil I bought from a national auto parts store (3 -1.25 gal.) and saved $30.00.
Guess I need to start liking Wal-Mart again.
 
For anyone interested in oil comparisons - here's an article regarding the testing of a bunch of different oils and then ranking them based on the wear protection they offer under load. I found it interesting.

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths
 
Valvoline VR-1 10w30 here...with my high-volume oil pump I get 50 psi cold pressure and 25-30 psi @ idle when HOT (900-1000 RPM) with the preferred 10 psi/1K rpm climb in pressure afterwards...

My main bearing clearances were: 0.0035 and rod bearings were: 0.0018 with 0.012 side to side clearance.
 
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yellow rose said:
Too bad it's not true.
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I never said true...I said interesting!

When I got my car home after purchase, the oil was dark. I read some threads, got some opinions, read a few articles, and in the end bought an oil whose name and quality reputation I was comfortable with and, most importantly, that was in stock on the shelf when I was in the store buying some other parts.
 
brodphish said:
One last thing - thanks 67fish for the Wal-Mart tip. Returned the oil I bought from a national auto parts store (3 -1.25 gal.) and saved $30.00.
Guess I need to start liking Wal-Mart again.
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I have seen it on sale there for as low as $21.95 per the 5 quart jug and the empty jug is handy to put the old oil in. My race car, the way it ended up was that with Mobil 1 20/50 it idles at 80 PSI and when I deck it it goes up to maybe 85 and stays there, I sleep good at night knowing its in there AND dont cheap out on oil filters either, for a street/daily driver I use an oil filter with the anti drain back valve, IMO the best little invention EVER.
As far as research goes, for me, is that the only research I ever do is to get in my daily driver and look down at the odometer, 380K and running perfect.
 
To the OP: Are you looking at the Mobil 1 10W40 4T? I have looked a that, but since it is made for motorcycles with wet clutches, I dunno if it has additives that would be compatible with a high HP SBM, or if that is not any problem.

The 10W40 High mileage Mobile 1 has a lot of detergents in it as well as seal conditioners. Dunno if either is a problem in this app. The 0W40 Mobil 1seems more appropriate, and has the same 1100 PPM ZDDP level.

The 15W50 has a higher ZDDP level at 1300 PPM. The narrower range Mobil 1's have lower ZDDP levels so I would not recommend them in flat tappet engines. (See the link below for ZDDP levels.)

Regardless if the results in your import turbo, the ZDDP levels in this application are likely more important, assuming you are running a flat tappet cam in your SBM. Is your cam flat or roller tappet?

And BTW, I have raced on Mobil1 for a long time, for the significant reduction I have found in oxidation (breakdown), and the far, far superior protection of the engine internals I've experienced when oil pressure is lost.

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