Cost of a single-color paint job?

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Captainkirk

Captainkirk

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I realize this can vary all over the map depending on locale, current economic situation, etc....but I'm trying to nail down 'average' cost of a single color metallic paint job on an A-body (Duster/Demon/Dart) to decide if I want to save up or go it by myself (again). Those of you who have had cars painted within the last year, what did it cost?
 
Captainkirk said:
I realize this can vary all over the map depending on locale, current economic situation, etc....but I'm trying to nail down 'average' cost of a single color metallic paint job on an A-body (Duster/Demon/Dart) to decide if I want to save up or go it by myself (again). Those of you who have had cars painted within the last year, what did it cost?
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this is what $9500 cash got me. car was stripped to bare metal, minimal rust repair. painted in a garage at the painters house. took 3 months. base clear.

 
yea for a strip and paint you looking at 7500 to 10,000. if there is rust, having th car disassembled, patching, lead work, all adds to the cost.

to keep the price down your best off tearing the car down to a roller, and then striping the car by hand. that will help with cost...
 
my car took 4800 in materials. that is primer, sealer, base, clear, all hardeners and reducers. all sand paper, filler etc. he kept reciepts.
 
I had a couple estimates done. My father and I did all the body and metal work, would have the car ready for paint. Both shops insisted on their own final block sanding. They figured 60hrs labor at $72 per plus materials put it at 7500 for both. We purchased the paint ourselves for 1900. Still waiting on a local painter to give us an estimate on just paint and masking.
 
I spent about $200 on the body work myself and $1600 to get a base/clear paint job at a cheaper paint shop. It wasn't perfect but the car is white and looks great.
 
Bodywork will be done. All I would need is the paint (Gunmetal) and corresponding clear coat done. 7-10 grand is unobtanium. I would have to do it myself for that price.
 
Be aware of the cost of quality paint these days. (primer, spray fill, base & clear and reducers/activators) Also add the cost of the other consumables and tools. Then add the post paint job materials. Most people would be surprised how little a body shop makes on a "total" paint job.
 
Not saying those boys don't earn their keep; only that 10 grand is never, ever gonna happen for the Captain. It's just not there, nor realistic.
 
805moparkid said:
yea for a strip and paint you looking at 7500 to 10,000. if there is rust, having th car disassembled, patching, lead work, all adds to the cost.
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that's what we charged and you got the car back mostly assembled. Also we never painted over anyone elses body work, full strip on everything.

But anyone who isn't charging at least 5k on a paint job isn't using TOP quality materials. I haven't added up my receipts (I am aware shops get consumables and paint cheaper than the rest of us) but I bet I could produce 3K in receipts just in materials and I am nowhere near done. My paint alone retails US $1200 a gallon, just the paint, not the reducer, the clear coat its reducer, primer, epoxy, masking supplies, various sanding papers, gloves etc. I estimate to get it right I need 5-6 qts.

y "doing it free" with hundreds of hours of my own labor will still cost me over 5k- but it will be the way I want it.
 
I should add I have spent at least $1k on equipment for spraying- great gun, primer gun, air line drier, cleaning solvents etc. Oh and I bought a nice air compressor some time ago for the express purpose of running body tools and painting.

But this is my hobby, it is fun for me and I'm sure I will put this stuff to use again for friends and family.


If you want more details let me know.
 
CudaChris67 said:
that's what we charged and you got the car back mostly assembled. Also we never painted over anyone elses body work, full strip on everything.

But anyone who isn't charging at least 5k on a paint job isn't using TOP quality materials. I haven't added up my receipts (I am aware shops get consumables and paint cheaper than the rest of us) but I bet I could produce 3K in receipts just in materials and I am nowhere near done. My paint alone retails US $1200 a gallon, just the paint, not the reducer, the clear coat its reducer, primer, epoxy, masking supplies, various sanding papers, gloves etc. I estimate to get it right I need 5-6 qts.

y "doing it free" with hundreds of hours of my own labor will still cost me over 5k- but it will be the way I want it.
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My paint job was around 5 grand and it was top notch.
 
The Demon was painted using PPG Shop Line by a shop down in Austin, TX by a fellow I've worked with before. For the job, I provided the paint, clearcoat, catalyst, and reducer as well as a complete roof (not just the skin). I also removed all of the chrome and sprayed the engine compartment and trunk area myself. He shot the door jambs, the rest of the body, straightened the tail panel, replaced the roof, and applied the stripes. Other than a little rust (TX little, not MN little) that was spliced out of the lower rear edge of the left quarter panel, Work on the car was done when he had time and weather permitting since the shop does not have climate control (paint booth has heat). Total time was almost 2 years. Total cost $2350.00.

For an in depth view of the fun - http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=36965
 

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The goal on the Dart was different. This car was a daily driver and needed to be turned into a non-eye sore cheap and fast. Like the Demon, it had roof rust issues and only needed a re-skin of the roof. I provided the skin. The work was done by MAACO. The paint job was their next to the top offered. It used a one-step clear coat paint. Color was an OEM match, FE5. They did not spray under the hood or the rear deck lid. As with the Demon, I removed all of the chrome except the exterior door handles. Cost of the paint job was around $600. There were some runs on the doors around the B-pillar on the driver's side. They repaired that to my satisfaction. Even with re-skinning the roof, the job was done in two weeks.

The advice I was given, I will pass along. Not all shops are equal. They may employ professional painters, but the quality of the work will vary. Be sure to look at samples of work that were done by the person who will paint your car. Don't ask the painter to use paint products that are not familiar to him. Also, see what they do to prep the car and keep the paint booth free of dirt and dust that might wind up in your paint job. Look for runs and sags, the sign of too much paint put down at one time. Look for areas where the paint is rough or is thin enough to show primer.

For more on the trials of the Dart http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=51094
 

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I thought, this was a single stage question. Aren't you guys,missing the point?
 
Last few at did working at a body shop came in around 10K. My friend charged me $1000 to spray the Duster in base/clear but I did everything else myself including masking the car. Im not so sure the $1000 he charged me covered his materiel costs.
 
In the Detroit area Maaco in the past has a half price sale during the winter months on painting (but not any body work), so I think for $300 they will use a DA sander, sealer and paint it. This does not include door jams or underhood. I know one that does really good work. Any other additional work costs more.
 
Abodybomber said:
I thought, this was a single stage question. Aren't you guys,missing the point?
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I think he was asking about a single color, not single stage.

One of the best custom shops in my area is also a paint supplier. They only use and sale Matrix. I'm an amateur but have shot just about all the brands and have been very pleased with this line. Since I am going all black I saved a little on the base coat as Matrix has a "stock" color that requires no special color mixing. As an example- the black b/c kit cost me $150 for 5 qts of RTS product. In comparison the quart of "Argent" for the grill cost me $85 for just the base. My point being that you can save hundreds of dollars by using a reputable product and researching within that line itself. Any work you can do on the car yourself saves a bunch. The one post listed $72 an hour for shop time. That adds up quickly, too quickly for me and that's why I do my own. My car isn't going to Barrett-Jackson. But it will be done right and no one will be able to say "Oh, look, you must have used the cheap stuff." :)

As an aside- Prep work is everything in the final outcome of a good paint job. To me the gun I use is next. On the advice of the paint shop owner I purchased an Iwata LPH400. A little more money upfront but using it eliminates the need to cut and buff the car. I use my old DeVilbiss Finish Line for primer and Iwata for base and clear. Since I will be doing more than one project it was well worth the cost.

Sorry for rambling and hope I'm on topic.
 
A big problem with Macco is the quality of the paint. Its cheap enamel. Be ready to buff the shine back every few months.
 
AdamR said:
A big problem with Macco is the quality of the paint. Its cheap enamel. Be ready to buff the shine back every few months.
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Have you detailed any of their 2 stage jobs? I know their single stage jobs will turn to chalk after a few years but I heard their 2 stage jobs will hold up if you do good bodywork before hand.
 
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