Couple of questions on sheetmetal/bodywork

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I agree with Treblig 100 percent.......... he is spot on, as ALL reproduction sheet metal is made to be modified one way or the other IMO. This is the proper way to get it done. Good luck with your project!
Dodge33
 
If it's just that corner that is a little low could you just weld that corner to bring it up a bit and profile it to match with an 80 grit flap wheel? That would allow you to keep your filler thin and maybe make it easier to hide... Just an idea vs splitting the whole panel, if the whole top line is low that's another story...
 
Well, I psyched myself up enough to go cut my new sheetmetal, & finally got out to the garage today. I started playing around a bit and found a small tab on the door pillar that was hanging up the corner of the quarter panel. Got that cleared and it lined up all nice like. Thank you for all the suggestions, and now I also have a new trick up my sleeve that hopefully I won't need to use.
 

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Roger Ram Rod said:
Well, I psyched myself up enough to go cut my new sheetmetal, & finally got out to the garage today. I started playing around a bit and found a small tab on the door pillar that was hanging up the corner of the quarter panel. Got that cleared and it lined up all nice like. Thank you for all the suggestions, and now I also have a new trick up my sleeve that hopefully I won't need to use.
Click to expand...

So the door was actually pushing the 1/4 down?
 
Sorry for the late reply, I hadn't noticed any more notifications. No, there was a small bit of metal on the doorjamb, or panel where the striker is. I have a DVD from CHP, (Craig Hopkins productions) called "panel perfect" that shows the procedure Treblig mentioned in great detail.
 
Looks like you got it nice :) I always pull the striker out of the door first. Fit everything (make the door fit the hole) then add the striker last and make the striker fit the door. If that makes sense :)
 
i've been doing body work for about 50 years and i can't remember too many body panels that ever went on without some kind of "massaging" either with heat, body filler or a Big Hammer. forty years ago you could go down to your local plymouth dealer and order any OEM sheet metal you wanted. however, that "gold plated OEM" factory sheet metal that we all lust after today? - it came wrapped in cardboard usually with a half a dozen shipping dents and scratches. welding "factory" sheet metal on a damaged plymouth was only the BEGINNING of the body work! so don't go too negative on AMD for the parts they are reproducing today.

as a bit of a truth disclaimer here, i have my 69 M-Code down at AMD's resto shop right now getting a bunch of sheet metal replaced. after talking to their shop manager craig hopkins several times, i have a pretty good feeling about how they will repair my car. but i will report on FABO once i get the car back.
 
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