Couple questions before I do my brakes

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MrJLR

MrJLR

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I started a thread in "General"....but that was the wrong place and plus I have a few last questions

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=316140

So the P.O. converted my 68 Notch Back to disks from a 73 - 76 Duster - but never changed the master cylinder and never added an adjustable proportioning valve.....

Disk in front, drum in back and NON-power brakes.

So I got the recommended master cylinder (Raybestos Part # MC36412), new calipers and pads, new rotors and wheel bearings (already installed them last weekend), and an adjustable proportioning valve.

So, my questions are:

1) The proportioning valve goes to the REAR brakes - yes ?
2) Is the brake line closest to the firewall the rear line?
3) The metal lines off the M.C. have loops bent in them - is it ok to cut out the loops and insert the P.V. there? (see pics)
4) Any tips you can offer, things to watch out for ?

Thanks!

:burnout:
 

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MrJLR said:
I started a thread in "General"....but that was the wrong place and plus I have a few last questions
1) The proportioning valve goes to the REAR brakes - yes ?
2) Is the brake line closest to the firewall the rear line?
3) The metal lines off the M.C. have loops bent in them - is it ok to cut out the loops and insert the P.V. there? (see pics)
4) Any tips you can offer, things to watch out for ?

Thanks!

:burnout:
Click to expand...

FIRST please show the distribution block/ device in there now to show the line routing. Maybe he put the later prop valve in

1...Yes, prop valve meters rear

2...No, the firewall line is the FRONT brakes (largest section of the master)

3...I would cut a straight section, not the loops, one reason being it will be impossible to get good flare

4...Again, would like to see routing at "present" distribution block

Fittings sizes of two masters are not necessarily the same. Line fittings at cylinders, at old style dist. blocks, and hose junctions are normally "standard" 3/16 nuts, but nuts at the master and late model prop valve (factory) are almost always "specially sized."

Be sure to bench bleed the master. You can buy a kit at the parts stores for 15 bucks or so

This below is what (or similar) your original 68 distribution block / switch should look like. IT IS NOT a prop valve. Notice how symmetrical it appears

$T2eC16h,!%29!E9s2fDwrYBR%28D%28dEh,Q~~60_35.JPG


Below is what a factory 73 prop valve looks like. Notice how "lopsided" it seems

The smaller piece is a metering valve, used "downstream" towards the rear. It is not used on all installations.

MP500503.JPG
 
67Dart273 said:
FIRST please show the distribution block/ device in there now to show the line routing. Maybe he put the later prop valve in

1...Yes, prop valve meters rear

2...No, the firewall line is the FRONT brakes (largest section of the master)

3...I would cut a straight section, not the loops, one reason being it will be impossible to get good flare

4...Again, would like to see routing at "present" distribution block

Fittings sizes of two masters are not necessarily the same. Line fittings at cylinders, at old style dist. blocks, and hose junctions are normally "standard" 3/16 nuts, but nuts at the master and late model prop valve (factory) are almost always "specially sized."

Be sure to bench bleed the master. You can buy a kit at the parts stores for 15 bucks or so
Click to expand...


Thanks.....I figured the larger well was for the front.....it's opposite of my Corvette.....
I'll try to get a pic of the distribution block.....tried last night but the light was so bad it didn't come out.....
Sure hope all the fittings are the same! More cutting and flaring!
I know to bench bleed the MC...

Thanks again!
 
Yes, you can put the prop valve under the MC. Many after-market kits do that. I did that on my Dart & Valiant, which both have a 2-bolt MC. I took a bracket off the MC of an Intrepid, which works great as a mount. I used the same adj prop valve - one w/ Jegs logo, one generic, but both appear from same Chinese factory.

However, one kink is that you have the pressure-imbalance switch in your distribution block, which my early-A's don't have. If you want that to stay active, you must plumb the prop valve downstream of it, which puts it "down in the mud". The after-market kits use a "combination valve" as in post #2. Of course, you could move your dist. block up higher, but starts getting Rube-Goldbergish. A new combo valve is ~$75 (In-line Brakes and others) and would be much cleaner plumbing, though you must rework some lower tubes.

BTW, many have wondered why they loop the factory brake tubes. I didn't on my cars. Some say "vibration tolerance", but they don't loop them elsewhere. Perhaps it was to give extra tubing for when the tubes twist off during an MC replacement, but the factory isn't usually so thoughtful. Perhaps it made an easier install or less inventory (one size fits all, coil the extra length). I did read that the wrapped wire under the frame rails was apparently so the factory guys could bend the tube by hand without kinking, but could have been also for debris protection. Some things become mysteries as the original designers die off. Often the answer is, "because we always did so".
 
Thanks guys.....
FedEx delivered my parts this morning and I painted the calipers black with Duplicolor....tomorrow morning I'll assemble everything and post an update!

Wish me well! Lol.

I have a Motive pressure bleeder........a must have tool.....

After all of this, if it still pulls I'm off to the alignment shop!

I've had the car 3 weeks and IMO, it's always brakes first.

:burnout:
 
I just wanted to say thank you all so much!

My brakes are awesome now!

All the pulling and vibration are gone and they work great!

I love it when a plan comes together!

Again - thank you!
 
Very old post I know. maybe someone can clear up a few things for me.
I am doing the front disc conversion (rear drums 11.5 inch) using spindles, callipers, brackets, from a 76 dart.
I was of the mindset that I could use the e body 2 piece proportioning/metering valve for the most responsive braking. But then I had read somewhere that you cannot use the 2 piece (combination type) valve on a body cars. Am I missing something here? Why would that be, maybe because the combination type valve is overly/under sensitive for a lighter a body car? IDK, it does not make sense to me.
 
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