Crane CCH-312-2-NC

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72Duster440 said:
Thanks, it's should be 112 then, the grind number on the cam was 312-2.


I'll hold off on the regear for now. I have no driveability complaints with it with a 4 speed and a 26" tire as long as I keep the revs above 2500 or so while cruising, below that it struggles. I used to have a 28 inch tire, but don't remember how it liked lower rpm, and it was an auto at the time.

I think ideally you are correct and a new cam should get installed, it's just not in the budget currently. I did have my eye on the Isky 264 Mega grind though. This is just a street car, I don't ever plan on racing it, so not too concerned with top end power.
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Yup. That makes sense. My stupid *** shouldda paid more attention. lol
 
72Duster440 said:
I do not know my current cylinder pressure, but could check it. My compression ratio is 10-10.5:1 with a set of flat tops in it.
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How far is piston in the hole at TDC? What head gasket are you using? Did you measure the actual combustion chamber volume?
 
ValiantS said:
How far is piston in the hole at TDC? What head gasket are you using? Did you measure the actual combustion chamber volume?
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Good Questions, no idea. Motor was in car when I got it, haven't touched it for 14 years until just now.
 
72Duster440 said:
Thanks, it's should be 112 then, the grind number on the cam was 312-2.


I'll hold off on the regear for now. I have no driveability complaints with it with a 4 speed and a 26" tire as long as I keep the revs above 2500 or so while cruising, below that it struggles. I used to have a 28 inch tire, but don't remember how it liked lower rpm, and it was an auto at the time.

I think ideally you are correct and a new cam should get installed, it's just not in the budget currently. I did have my eye on the Isky 264 Mega grind though. This is just a street car, I don't ever plan on racing it, so not too concerned with top end power.
Click to expand...
Do have the vacuum advance hooked up?
 
I do not, my distributor does not have it.

I was running it with the timing locked out for years, now I let my EFI control the timing, but no vacuum advance.
 
Don't get caught up in advertised powerbands. It's utter nonsense.

On my 440, I run a much bigger roller cam and the best standard port heads money can buy, topped with a deep ported Victor and mine peaks at 5,900.
 
I'm more concerned with low end driveability that most amount of power, or high end power. Like I said, I still have a set of stock iron heads on it. I'm super happy with the power level it has now, just trying to bring it down into the 2-4k rpm range.
 
If more low end is your goal, then the cam in question has 15-20* too much duration [ at 050 ].
 
I finally got my new cam installed. It took a bit longer than expected, the valve spring removal tool I had ended up failing and launching some springs. I had to go find another one to use. My new intake didn't fit, which is why I made the other thread asking about calculating head milling dimensions...

My first attempt at break in resulted in 2 banana shaped pushrods on cylinder 7. After tearing everything back down and inspecting, I found nothing wrong, so I replaced all of the pushrods and attempted break in again. The only issue the second time was an oil leak at the corner of the timing cover, oil pan and block. I finished the break in then dropped the pan to fix the leak, the seal got creased somehow and caused the leak.

I haven't driven it yet, but I changed the oil and it looked fine and the lifters all appear to be spinning. Now I need to reset my idle on my FiTech and calibrate the idle air stepper and it should be good to go. Hoping to get to that tomorrow.


Not the best video, but here it is idling for the first time. Still has a nice chop to the idle sound. Don't mind the moisture, was a cold idle after sitting for a few days and the air is still that temp here.

 
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