crank no start

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67notchbackcuda

67notchbackcuda

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I have been dealing with some issues with this car and just recently was able to get it up and going. the plugs were fouled when I cleaned them up, I was able to limp it along until I got the timing and air fuel dialed in. after running it for an hour I let it cool down for a few hours and cranked it back up and it was running great. the next day when I got home from work, I went to crank it and it would not start. I had not made any adjustments since I had it running the day before I need some guidance if anyone has anything I am all ears!

I have fuel and spark also pulled the spark plugs back out and cleaned them and reinstalled them nothing else has really changed.
 
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Is it not cranking, cranking but not firing, or cranking and firing but not catching?... I'm confused by your wording. Check to make sure you have spark while cranking first.
 
67notchbackcuda said:
the next day when I got home from work, I went to crank it and it would not crank
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Your title says "crank no start"

If the engine turns over (cranks) but does not start that is one set of issues.

If it does not turn over (no crank) that is another.

So which is it at this point?
 
crank no start, it turns over but does not start up. it has fire and fuel the timing was not touched since it ran on Monday. yeah sorry I put Crank in there twice. it was supposed to be crank but not starting. I could see that being confusing.
 
Pull the distributor cap off to see that the rotor is turning when cranking it over.

Start with the basics.

Rock the crank back and forth and watch the rotor to see how loose your timing chain is. Possibly the chain jumped a few teeth if it is loose enough, throwing the mechanical timing out of whack.

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George Jets said:
Pull the distributor cap off to see that the rotor is turning when cranking it over.

Start with the basics.

Rock the crank back and forth and watch the rotor to see how loose your timing chain is. Possibly the chain jumped a few teeth if it is loose enough, throwing the mechanical timing out of whack.

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I will check that, but the distributor is new along with the timing chain, I know that doesn't mean a lot when things happen but just wanted to throw that out there.
 
Sometimes a spark check will look positive, but the juice is weak enough that fuel and compression will drowned it out. If your dizzy uses a box, make sure it has a good/clean ground.
 
Like said start with the basics...

You pulled the plugs double check the firing order.

Verify that you have voltage at the positive side of the coil with the key in start and run.

How did you verify you have fuel?

How did you verify you have spark?

Find TDC on the compression stroke and verify the dist is pointing near the post going to the #1 cylinder
 
You said you had recently fixed 'issues'. What issues? Maybe they are back.....
 
Verified the fuel by the accelerator pump working, fuel bowl is full and wix inline filter is full. Verified spark with an inline spark tester and timing gun. Checked voltage from battery to ballast resistor to coil on the positive side key in run (little over 6v after resistor). Verified TDC and button pointing to #1 lining up with the corresponding spark plug wire. One thing I need to double check is firing order I am pretty sure I did but that could be an easy mix up I will do that. The one thing that this car doesn’t have is a box it is a ballast resistor I think that is the way it has always been but not for sure.

My carb (Holly Street avenger 670) had been adjusted previous and didn’t run right so I brought it back to factory settings (1 ½ turns on all air fuel screws and curb idle all the way in and backed off 1 ½ turns)

I adjusted the timing to where the car sounded like it was closer to starting tried this for a while and got it to start for just a few seconds, but the throttle couldn’t be controlled, the more I gave it did nothing. I pulled the spark plugs and they were wet. It seems that even though I had spark I might be losing it somewhere. Any Insite or help would be apricated.
 
pull the plug out of the head. Rig it to a good ground with the spark plug wire still attached. Make sure you can see the electrode good while cranking the engine over. What does your spark at the plug look like?
 
I know its a bit redneck and not a GREAT indication of quality of spark, but when I'm working alone(all the time lol) and testing for spark, I will aim timing light at windshield to see if it flashes.
jeff alder said:
pull the plug out of the head. Rig it to a good ground with the spark plug wire still attached. Make sure you can see the electrode good while cranking the engine over. What does your spark at the plug look like?
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So, no ign box, just a bal res? That would be correct for 1967....which is: ign coil, points & condenser. I would start by replacing the points & cond.
 
Well, at least by post #10 we get to know what carburetor you have. God forbid you bless us with any more info.
 
Do you have a points distributor? Check your condenser and point gap, if you have pertronix check inside the distributor some times the two wire melt together, try jumping the ballast and see if that helps. I had a ballast that looked good but was faulty and head a bad connection.
 
So I found that the wire that goes to the points from the coil was loose so I replaced the nut with a locking nut and got it to start it ran like crap and couldn’t time it in. Cool is new and it ohms out good it still seems like fire. I appreciate all the help here are some pics of what I am working with.

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There's been a lot of good suggestions on what to look for and check, but the first thing I read that I disagree with is cleaning up a fouled plugs
 
Replacement points and condensers are junk these days, I'd get a ready to run electronic distributor.
I believe the condensers are wound with Mexican hemp and prone to failure. lol
 
I read where you said the voltage at the coil is 6V with the key in the run position. What is the voltage at the coil when you are cranking the engine? It should be noticeably more than 6V. The higher voltage while cranking aids in starting the engine. You have essentially two circuits feeding your coil. The "run circuit" goes thru the ballast resistor and drops the 12V down to (in your case) the 6V you measured earlier. The "start circuit" does not go through the ballast resistor, that resistor is bypassed while cranking so that you can get more voltage to the coil for starting.

What does it read while cranking?
 
Also if the bottom of the coil is curved or oil is coming from the coil tower the coil is junk. If the ballast resistor is discolored where the wires plug onto it or the back is discolored its shot. I do know that both of these statements are from my personal experience
 
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