crank scraper question

-
Trays keep the oil from being pulled up
Crank scrapers are removing oil that's coming back down and or hanging on the crank ,any extra weight kept off the crank is less drag, balance interruption, and helps it back to the sump.
I've always baffled pans, windage trays when available and or a scraper.
I even made one for my slant when i was 18 yrs old.. still have the fkn thing!

20211105_173054.jpg
 
I always thought about making a full pan rail style, producing it for sale.
Probably already out there though.
But I could easily trace and improve it I'm sure.
 
About to button up magnum 360 hot street. Please explain mounting a crank scraper. Does it sandwich in between pan gaskets?
I Like the set-up in post 16. Especially windage tray. Does anyone make that for SBM?
 
JoePole1 said:
About to button up magnum 360 hot street. Please explain mounting a crank scraper. Does it sandwich in between pan gaskets?
I Like the set-up in post 16. Especially windage tray. Does anyone make that for SBM?
Click to expand...
Full pan rail length you can seal to the block and then gasket it to the pan if you want I know the big block guys would double gasket sometimes
 
Last edited:
It probably is a good idea, but don’t waste your time with Isihra-Johnson. Make it yourself. I had one paid for for over a year. Got numerous e mails, tracking numbers, and never received anything . Finally got credit back.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Full pan rail length you can seal to the block and then gasket it to the pan if you want I know the big block guys would double gasket sometimes
Click to expand...

Just gotta give more attention to sealing the front & rear pan seals because you lose some "squish" with the scraper installed on the rails.
 
Locomotion said:
Just gotta give more attention to sealing the front & rear pan seals because you lose some "squish" with the scraper installed on the rails.
Click to expand...
Old topic, but I tried to find info for sealing tricks. I installed the ishihara crankscaper with permatex supra black silicone and put the oem style cork gaskets + rubber back and front seals. Had it installed many days before I put oils in it and primed the engine oil. Front seal leaks a lot and now i have to take it apart... I put silicone on pan and timing cover surfaces and it still leaked. Every surface was cleaned very well before silicon and installation.

Opinions?
1. Do I have to put a lot more silicone between the sealing surfaces
2. Or, do i remove the rubber seals and install the pan only with a lot of silicon?

IMG-20230212-WA0012.jpeg
 
Timeless said:
Old topic, but I tried to find info for sealing tricks. I installed the ishihara crankscaper with permatex supra black silicone and put the oem style cork gaskets + rubber back and front seals. Had it installed many days before I put oils in it and primed the engine oil. Front seal leaks a lot and now i have to take it apart... I put silicone on pan and timing cover surfaces and it still leaked. Every surface was cleaned very well before silicon and installation.

Opinions?
1. Do I have to put a lot more silicone between the sealing surfaces
2. Or, do i remove the rubber seals and install the pan only with a lot of silicon?

View attachment 1716049379
Click to expand...

You don’t use a gasket on the scraper. I’d have to dig out my instructions but you only use a gasket…hang on I’ll go get the instructions.
 
Ok, had to refresh my memory.

You don’t use a gasket under the scraper. Just silicone. If you have both scrapers then no gasket under that one either.

Then a gasket over the top. You have to add that extra clearance up and make sure the oil pump screen is the correct distance from the pan.

I use a thin bead of silicone under the rubber end gaskets bore I put them on the pan. Then I use a thick (relatively thick) bead of silicone across the top of the rear main cap and the timing cover and bolt it down.

I use enough that some squishes out between the timing cover/main cap. Once it’s cured I take a razor blade and trim off the excess.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Ok, had to refresh my memory.

You don’t use a gasket under the scraper. Just silicone. If you have both scrapers then no gasket under that one either.

Then a gasket over the top. You have to add that extra clearance up and make sure the oil pump screen is the correct distance from the pan.

I use a thin bead of silicone under the rubber end gaskets bore I put them on the pan. Then I use a thick (relatively thick) bead of silicone across the top of the rear main cap and the timing cover and bolt it down.

I use enough that some squishes out between the timing cover/main cap. Once it’s cured I take a razor blade and trim off the excess.
Click to expand...
Thx for your reply! I did the install exactly like that, but i think I didn't use enough silicone on the ends. I will try again! Thanks for your help :)
 
Timeless said:
Thx for your reply! I did the install exactly like that, but i think I didn't use enough silicone on the ends. I will try again! Thanks for your help :)
Click to expand...
Obviously you have a crush issue now with the end gaskets. Putting on the scraper raises the pan way from the timing cover and rear main , so if it was not good to start with, it will now be worse.
If it was a job I was doing, I'd probably look at trying to get some crush back on those gaskets first, before trying to fill a gap that shouldn't be there with silicone.
But if you don't have the tools etc to do that, then you may just have to use the silicone and cross your fingers it won.t leak again.
 
Last edited:
Bakerlite said:
Obviously you have a crush issue now with the end gaskets. Putting on the scraper raises the pan way from the timing cover and rear main , so if it was not good to start with, it will now be worse.
If it was a job I was doing, I'd probably look at trying to get some crush back on those gaskets first, before trying to fill a gap that shouldn't be there with silicone.
But if you don't have the tools etc to do that, then you may just have to use the silicone and cross your fingers it won.t leak again.
Click to expand...
Good point!
 
For me, silicone sealant is the last thing I reach for, not the first. And I use it very sparingly, especially if it could find its way into the engine.
It's not uncommon to find it in oil pickups, when someone has gone overboard using it during previous engine work.
 
Bakerlite said:
Obviously you have a crush issue now with the end gaskets. Putting on the scraper raises the pan way from the timing cover and rear main , so if it was not good to start with, it will now be worse.
If it was a job I was doing, I'd probably look at trying to get some crush back on those gaskets first, before trying to fill a gap that shouldn't be there with silicone.
But if you don't have the tools etc to do that, then you may just have to use the silicone and cross your fingers it won.t leak again.
Click to expand...

How are you going to add crush and not force the end of the pan out of round.

It doesn’t take a lot of silicone. It takes some. He didnt use enough.

No sense doing a bunch of body work when it isn’t needed.
 
Rat Bastid said:
How are you going to add crush and not force the end of the pan out of round.

It doesn’t take a lot of silicone. It takes some. He didnt use enough.

No sense doing a bunch of body work when it isn’t needed.
Click to expand...
Just my opinion, the Op can choose how he want's to go about it.
Oh, by the way, some Mod has helped themselves to the settings in my account and put you on ignore, and I can't change it, so I don't always see if you reply to something.
Makes me wonder about the security of our PM's.
 
Last edited:
Bakerlite said:
Just my opinion, the Op can choose how he want's to go about it.
Oh, by the way, some Mod has helped themselves to the settings in my account and put you on ignore, and I can't change it, so I don't always see if you reply to something.
Makes me wonder about the security of our PM's.
Click to expand...


Hmmmm. Anyway, as long as the OP is a bit judicious with the silicone he shouldn’t have any issues.

I was going to measure my crank scraper today but forgot.

Maybe tomorrow. If I remember.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Hmmmm. Anyway, as long as the OP is a bit judicious with the silicone he shouldn’t have any issues.

I was going to measure my crank scraper today but forgot.

Maybe tomorrow. If I remember.
Click to expand...
Also with the scrapers, when I get them where I want, I like dowel them to the block so they always go back to the exact same spot. Makes it easier if you're taking it on and off to fine tune the clearances. I trim the dowel level with the scraper. I've used the IJ ones but pan hole alignment can vary. The last BB one I did had the rear holes off quite a bit.
 
Depending on what we're working with.. why would doweling them to the block be necessary when the pan bolts can be the effective dowels.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Depending on what we're working with.. why would doweling them to the block be necessary when the pan bolts can be the effective dowels.
Click to expand...

It depends on the fit of the scraper. Some can be pretty loose. I’ve seen them where the fit to the crank and rods was a bit wonky so to save the scraper and make it fit properly they opened up the bolt holes. A dowel would be a good thing if that happens.

The Teflon scrapers are a self fitting scraper so you install them with an interference fit and they end up where they are which is pretty close to zero fit.
 
Rat Bastid said:
It depends on the fit of the scraper. Some can be pretty loose. I’ve seen them where the fit to the crank and rods was a bit wonky so to save the scraper and make it fit properly they opened up the bolt holes. A dowel would be a good thing if that happens.

The Teflon scrapers are a self fitting scraper so you install them with an interference fit and they end up where they are which is pretty close to zero fit.
Click to expand...
Teflon interference fit...now we're cookin.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top