Crank shaft machine question.

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d55dave said:
Why ask for opinions if you dont want to listen to them. Go ahead and put it together, see how long it lives. Good luck.
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Chill out! I don't know why you think I am not listening to them. I am planning on taking it in to the machine shop and having it either turned or polished which ever the machine shop recommends. When I started this thread I had not looked at the crank in quite a while. The last time I looked at it was a couple years ago right after I beed blasted it. I know the condition and history of the crank prior to any of the rust and it was in excellent shape. I know there was little to no wear on the journals. My only concern was if there was some old school resourceful methods for bringing the proper finish back after the beed blasting. After I pulling it out of the garage yesterday I noticed the surface rust and fully agree it will have to be taken to a machine shop. I also figured I would have nothing to lose and decided to see if I could try some old tricks I had heard about. So yes I am listening and I am not planning to run it as is. There was a time when people knew some tricks. I was just checking to see if someone knew any.
 
Let us know what the machine shop says... really interested in measurements when the visuals are out of the way.
:rolleyes:
 
340dartley said:
Ok so I got bored today and decided to see what I could do to the crankshaft with a little Emory cloth a shoe string and some wd40

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My dad was a Crank Grinder for about 15 years. I am going to save you a loss of parts and tell you to stop wasting your time and get it to the machine shop. Offset the cost and do like me and at dinner time eat cheese sandwiches lol....

As for home polishing I will ask him this morning and report back. I do remember he could do something with a piece of leather but let me find out the scoop and I will post it this evening.



Good luck,
JW
 
So I asked my pops and he said if you wanted to roll like that in your garage real fine steel wool and a leather belt but by the time you wore yourself out trying to polish it you could have dug a ditch for someone all day for some pocket money and be further ahead lol..... I do remember him tinkering with that stuff when I was young and the only thing I remember is he didn't spend much time on it... Hope this helps...

JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:
So I asked my pops and he said if you wanted to roll like that in your garage real fine steel wool and a leather belt but by the time you wore yourself out trying to polish it you could have dug a ditch for someone all day for some pocket money and be further ahead lol..... I do remember him tinkering with that stuff when I was young and the only thing I remember is he didn't spend much time on it... Hope this helps...

JW
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Thank you for your reply. It does help. another reason I spent any time at all on this was because....well the parts are just sitting in the garage. I am not in the middle of some great 340 build at the moment. I don't really have the money to build the motor right now either. Right now I am almost done with my 383 build for my 68 Satellite. That one is a higher end build but still budget minded. I also have a perfectly good running 340 in my Dodge Dart Bracket Car. So I guess I was just dreaming of some elbow grease and some old school tricks to throw the 340 together for my old dart that is rotting in storage. The car is a 1967 Dart Gt that I used to street race when I was in college. Right now it is a beat up shell.
The motor was a really good runner even when it shouldn't have been. Back in the day it had stock 10 to 1 pistons with the stock forged steel crank and an Erson TQ40 hydraulic cam. It still had the original closed chamber 273 heads and a Edlebrock ld4b Manifold. It probably had 11 to 1 or more compression. I ran it one time at Famosa and it clicked off a 13.79 at 102 mph.
 
The down fall of that combination is you couldn't shut it off. The compression was high enough that it diesels when shut off. I don't mean it knocks and rattles. It still ran on all 8 cylinders at full song with the coil wire removed. I could rev it up and drive it like that. I had to choke the carb with a rag to kill it.
 
I had a steel crank out of my 340 that spun a rod. It was already 30 under so they welded it up for me (you can do that on a steel crank) and cut it back to 30. The rest were fine. It wasnt that expensive....back in 1992.....polishing is just a step to take when your changing out bearings as a preventive maintenance issue, JMHO. Grinding will get you back to 100 round and proper size and its not that expensive either.
 
pishta said:
I had a steel crank out of my 340 that spun a rod. It was already 30 under so they welded it up for me (you can do that on a steel crank) and cut it back to 30. The rest were fine. It wasnt that expensive....back in 1992.....polishing is just a step to take when your changing out bearings as a preventive maintenance issue, JMHO. Grinding will get you back to 100 round and proper size and its not that expensive either.
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i agree. There was no damage from when the bearing spun. You honestly could not tell anything happened to the crank when it happened. All my damage was done by myself leaving unprotected in the elements. When I get it ready to run I will have the crank polished and or turned. . The block is the same. I need to either have it honed or bored. I will leave that up to the machine shop. It is .030 over. I have a 440 that was given to me in the same shape. on the cylinder walls. Looks to be low mileage but sat with heads off.
 
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