crusty floor pans replaced

[stroker_valiant]

I think I have done pretty well so far, the old stuff came out very nicely, and the trimming and fitment of the new pans went well. I put rhino liner undercoating on the underside of the pan itself, its drying, but will be in next week after I get back into town.

 

[Tnplumber]

Nice work.

 

[stroker_valiant]

After much downtime on the floor pan project, I am finally back at it. Today I cut the entire pan out of the entire driver side. After wire wheeling everything that is staying, I painted the cross member, and frame connectors, and all the stuff I won’t be able to get to once the pans are in. I am now waiting on the new trimmed pans to dry; I rhino lined them so they will match up with the rest of the underside of the car. I will get some pics up hopefully tomorrow of the welded in pans, enjoy…

 

[duster340]

nice work!
something i need to ask,will you grind of the fresh paint where you are going to weld the new pans on? just a thought here it usualy sucks trying to weld something painted.. i will probably replace my floorpans next winter and this is something i have thought about.

 

[stroker_valiant]

No sanding off fresh paint, I'll just blast right through it. I will sand down the edges of the fitted pans where i goobered rhino liner on, cant weld through that stuff. This is what I did on the passenger side pan, worked well. I'll put up some better detailed pics tomorrow...

 

[stroker_valiant]

Yeah, I forgot to add, brake lines really don’t like a sawzall. I checked my path where I was going to cut, and sure enough, I find the only brake line going to the rear. Easy fix to patch in a piece of replacement line, but still bugs me that I chopped right through it.

 

[jefflock]

Brakes! We don't need no stinking brakes. lol

 

[stroker_valiant]

These are the freshly coated pans that will be going in.

 

[stroker_valiant]

Everything is fitted and welded in place, and I seam-sealed all welds. The welder I was using is a gasless flux machine, so there is some porosity in the welds. I sealed all seams so no water could get through.

 

[stroker_valiant]

And this is the final product. All painted up and shiny, ready for the dynamat type stuff, whatever route I go there.

 

[Wylde1]

The end results look great. :thumrigh: No more flinstone mobile!


Wylde1.

 

[stroker_valiant]

And thank ya much Sir!

 

[waggin]

Look's Good...nice Job!!!

 

[stroker_valiant]

Now all I have to do is Rhino line the underside where the welds are, to cover up bare metal...

 

[sireland67]

Nice work, I just got finished fixing mine yesterday.
For what its worth, Napa sell a Zinc weld thru primer that works really good for $8.00 a can.

 

[Stacked360]

Looks like a nice job for sure...but now you can't change your oil filter through the rust hole in the passenger floor!:laughing:

 

[Demonracer]

You forgot to mention the shifter change. Great work on the pans.

 

[stroker_valiant]

I do have a can of the weld through primer, I used it on the frame connectors and it works well. If I am doing any important welding I will use it, but I didnt really care if there was porosity or contaminants in these welds.

I was wondering if the shifter change would be noticed, I had to get a new one for the reverse pattern valvebody in the trans ( which I wished I wouldnt have got the reverse).

And I love the location of my oil filter, makes the changes so easy and clean!

Thanks for the compliments all!

 

[Burntorange70]

Well done. Looks good.

 

[73SwingerBuild]

I am in the process of changing my floor pan on my drivers side out now. How did you do the spot welds on the part of the subframe that goes across the middle of the floor pans and attaches to the transmission crossmember? I was thinking of using a spot weld cutting bit, drilling just through the pan, and filling it with a puddle of weld on top of the subframe. Your thoughts?

 

[73SwingerBuild]

By the way, yours looks great. I hope my welds come out that well.

 

[stroker_valiant]

I used a spot weld cutter getting them out, then realized an air hammer is alot faster and funner. As far as getting the new pans spot welded to the crossmember, I got everything in and fitted nice and tight, then just drilled through the new pans till I hit the crossmember, and pooled up a few spot welds. Leaving a slight amount of pan left, before drilling into the crossmember worked best I found out, that way when you spot weld, the heat will just burn through the small amount of pan that didnt get drilled. I did it like that so as to not drill any more than I had to into the cross. smoe of the areas by the firewall and corners where the kick panel area are just got spot welded, as it was hard to get the gun tip in there and still make good welds, so those areas just got an ample amount of seam sealer.