Custom exhaust help

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smythge

65 with a BIG BLOCK
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I am in the process of putting a 440 and 727 in my 65 dart, The only thing left to do is finish the exhaust. There is a custom K member and room has been created to run 2.5" exhaust pipe out in front of the motor then under the motor and back. I am wondering what problems I could run into with routing the tubes out that way. Clearence issues suspension issues etc. Any help is appreciated. I'll take some pics and post them as well.
 
Here is a pic of how the exhaust will run

exhaust.JPG
 
smythge, that's an interesting way of getting the exhaust out, and it should work just fine. What are you using on the engine - headers, production style exhaust manifolds, or are you just making up an exhaust log with the exit to the front? Keep us posted on how it goes and keep a photo record please.
 
You can't see the back exhaust port has a 2" pipe connected to the long pipe and so will the rest of the ports they just haven't been cut and welded in, Not sure if you would consider these headers or manifolds or a combination
 
I don't know anything about running an exhaust like that, but it's something I've always wondered about, given the lack of space beside and beneath. Let me know how it goes and if there are any overheating issues. I wouldn't think it would cause the engine to run any hotter, but that's the only possible hiccup I can imagine.
 
Why not just stick a couple turbos on the front there? Looks like the perfect layout for it.
 
This doesn't look like a very good idea, to me. Seems like it will create many more problems than it solves. You still have to get it back past the steering links, and it will end up hanging down as much or more than long tube standard headers. I can't see how it will fit in with the rest of the accessories mounted on the front of the motor, alternator, steering pump, radiator, fan, wiring, hoses and the rest of the front clip. You'll have heat issues along with the possibility of burned/melted rubber/skin anywhere near it under the hood. All you get for the trouble is an extra six feet of angle-bent pipe.

I'd take a hard 2nd look at this and try to decide if maybe it's one of those things that seemed like a good idea at first, and turned out not to be.
 
smythge: I've been coming back to this thread every day and looking at the way you're going with those pipes, and I have to agree with Ace on this one. It looks like you may be creating more problems that you're trying to solve. However, if you do the same thing with the same pipes, only run it to the rear like a normal exhaust, it should work. You'd end up with a log type exhaust that's custom built for your engine / chassis combo. It probably wouldn't move the exhaust out as well as a set of headers, but it would be much better than standard exhaust manifolds, and would fit better that either of the others since it's built for your combo. It would also save a bunch of bucks compared to headers. :)
 
I would like to be able to run the exhaust out the back but there is no way that large of tube will fit, and I don't want to run 1". As far as clearance goes there is no power steering (no way that would fit) the alternator will be about 2" away on the passenger side and the entire exhaust is a good 8" away from the radiator. This a 65 Dart and the motor is a 440 there are no long tube headers made nor would they ever fit. With the exception of fenderwell headers, which I don't want or by some miracle an exhaust manufold that would fit, this seem like the only choice.
 
Yup, that 440 takes up a lot of room in the narrow 65 engine bay. I have a 360 in my 66 and I'm still running the stock 273 exhaust manifolds, due largely to the absence of a good free-flowing manifold that will fit, or a set of tublular headers that won't cost me more than my car did. Have you ever seen a stock 65/66 V8 left side exhaust manifold? It flattens out and curves around the steering column and manages to clear the block, starter, and torsion bars, but it's still a tight fit. Where it flattens and curves, it was designed so that it also widens in the flatened area, thus retaining the required flow area. It's not really pretty but it seems to work. :thumblef: I know I'm restricting the power output of my 360 with this setup, but until I can come up with a set of home built headers, or a rear exit log-type setup like yours, I guess I'll have to stick with my 273 manifolds. :) Good luck, and keep us posted with progress reports and photos.
 
at a first look i gues i where thinking the same as some of the other guys about the heat, but i think that can be atleast partialy solved by using some headerwraping you know that expensive stuf from morosso,

its real cool to see someone puting a 440 into a early abody!
keep up the good work!
 
Duster 340, thanks for tip, I'll get some of the Moroso header wrap right away.
 
That's the ticket! I may even go that route when the Hookers in my Duster finish rotting through, just to get some ground clearance back for a daily driver. Great find!
 
Looks good. Nice welding. Never saw the alternator located there before. Custom brackets? I think I'd consider some additional heat shielding for those plug wires (along with the wrap!). Realized the Dakota manifold was a small block thing after it was too late to edit. Couple questions, though: How do you change plugs? And how's the routing back underneath going?
 
sorry ace,
i forgot to mention that link was
for small blocks. :book:
not intentional i goofed.
i've not tried this, just a link i found
while surfing for info.

longarm
 
sorry ace,
i forgot to mention that link was
for small blocks. :book:
not intentional i goofed.
i've not tried this, just a link i found
while surfing for info.

longarm
 
To change the plugs the headers actually unbolt and pop out very easy. I will be using some heat wrap and getting some protection for the plug wires, they're in there temporarily now 9just had to hear it run). Haven't gotten to the underside yet, but looks like a lot of clearance, when it's done I'll get some pics of the underside. Seems like a logical place to mount the alternator with no power steering, to much stuff on the passenger side.
 
I have a suggestion- have you looked into thermal barrier coating, you can spray it yourself, it air dries, and will cut underhood temps down big time!
caswell coatings
Also those look like they'll really work good- I bet alot of other early A-body guys would be interested in those.
 
I haven't looked into the spray, sounds interesting, any idea who sells it?
 
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