Custom exhaust help

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smythge, it's looking good! You've really done some nice work there, and you should be an expert exhaust pipe welder before it's all done. Thanks for the photos, and keep them coming. :thumblef:
 
Wish I could take the credit, but I have a friend who has done all the fabricating. Including interior work, custom k member, completely fabricated solid motor mounts (I'll post a pic), exhaust & sub frame connectors all of which was done in about 3 weekends. It's amazing to me what someone with a lot skill, a torch a chop saw and welder can do! This weekend will be finish the alternator bracket and shorten the drive shaft which will complete phase 1 of the project. Phase 2 will be this spring or summer which will be to tub out the rear end, new tranmission cross member and fuel cell. 2007 will be phase 3, rebuild motor and transmission, disc brake conversion and custom power steering .
 
Just a suggestion,why have the exhaust come out rear only to be piped up to the front?Why not have outlet at the front of cylinder heads & go straight
down?
 
I am not sure what you mean the outlet is at the front of the cylinder heads not the rear.
 
Got the header coating from Caswell, here is the completed motor and headers I get the complete exhaust done this week I'll update on how it goes

DSCN6261.JPG
 
good luck with it.. the only thing i can see that may be a problem is the pipes may have to hang low...

i did my 440 in an early a-body (64 valiant) a little different.

22629042.jpg
 
While I like the concept, I dont think it's the real fix. Witht the work for a custom K frame, I'd think a better way could be fabricated to get it out the bottom. Even maybe some sort of Y pipe if the driver's side is impossible. What I seefrom the pic is on the driver's side, all the vital wiring running 5" from piping that the factorynever woried about. That will all need to be heat sheilded. I dont see how it can go under a centerlink and std steering without loosing a lot of ground clearance..Maybe ovalling the pipe? The suspension components are over the pipes...heat rises. You can be 1/2" away from teh bottom of the pipe and be fine, but 3" above it, will get very hot in seconds of idling. On the passaenger's side, the alternator may be ok, because it's in front of the pipe, but the fuel pump and feed line from the tank must be heavilly sheilded. A good point on the plugs and wires. Also, on the construction itself, any sharp angles cause a ton of turbulence. A few wont really affect much. But almost every pipe has many..that's bad. Anything tighter han about 12* of angular change
cause problems in the flow inside the pipe. Coolidea, I just think witha little more thought, you can find a better way.
 
The wiring on the drivers side is head shielded and actually not as close as it looks in the picture, the battery in the trunk and the wiring used is high temp welding cable with a heat sheild wrapped around it. After 45 minutes of running the car the fuel pumps remains cooler than the engine block I can grap it and it's barely warm. The alternator is no where near the header pipes so that will not be an issue. Also in driving and running the car it never goes over 180 so overheating is not an issue. I am not too concerend about clearance in the front there is a direct path back and I am also planning on coating the exhaust pipe directly under the front of the car with the same ceramic coating as the headers so that should help cut down on the heat. If I find the exhaust doesn't flow well I will either use the existing headers as a template for new headers with mandrel bends or if all else fails I'll go with fenderwell headers, but then I will be worried about tire clearance, over heating, spark plug changing and of course chopping up my fenderwells. I appreciate your observations and I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Cool. As they say..If it aint a problem, dont make it one...lol. I think it needs some turbos too...lol.
 
Not sure a 2800 pound car with a 440 really needs turbo. LOL
 
Got the complete exhaust done today, no problems with clearance or heat yet. Went with 2 1/2 pipe with Flo Pro Mufflers dumped right before the rear axle. Will run it all the way back after ther rear end tub is done this summer. I'll post some pics and keep you updated on any issues, so far so good. I should also mention that I only have about $50.00 into the headers including gaskets sure beats the $1,000 the exhaust shops wanted.
 
smythge, you can't beat that $50.00 price tag! The only job of the manifolds or headers is to let the exhaust gases get out of the engine, and if you can do it for 50 bucks, that's great. I bet the heads won't even know how much the exhaust system cost. :) Keep us updated on how things are working out, and thanks for sharing your design and photos.
 
I've been running the exhaust a couple weeks now with no problems. The thermal heat barrier is working great at keeping the engine compartment heat down, no clearance issues, the only problem I have had is getting to the bolts to adjust the torsion bars, but I was able to easily unbolt them and make the adjustments, so far so good.
 
That is just impressive smythge, i like the way you have sat down and made an exspensive near impossibility come together for 50 bucks and a few beers probably.. looks good and if it works good.. i say well done chap,well done

wanna do mine next?
:dontknow:
I'm concidering buying a 66 valiant 2dr post..

Cerwin
 
Ok 3 months into the exhaust, 2 motors later no problems to report! Nothings melted, no clearence issues, no overheating, I've had them out 3 times takes about 20 minutes, I was even able to change the sparks plugs. The only issue was a couple annoying exhaust leaks, fixed those with the soft aluminum gaskets made by Percy. Now that I have sufficently tested them I am going to use these as templates and spend the money to have some made with mandrel bends, of course that's after the new transmission, springs, tires & wheels. :thumblef:
 
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